PE TT vs Vortech SC
#1
PE TT vs Vortech SC
Hi All,
I'm new here and from the UK
There seems to be alot more info here the the UK equivilant forums so I thought i'd post something for comparisons.
I'm thinking of going FI soon probably starting with the stock motor... I've read that both the PE TT (small turbo's) and the Vortech are quite kind to the engine internals in comparison to APS, Greddy, HKS, etc...
I'm running a late 2002 JDM 350z with nitrous.
2 questions:
1) Anyone here run either or both of these setups? Which one is preferrable and why?
2) Used vortech kits seem to come up in a blue moon, but I've never seen a used PE TT kit. Has anyone ever seen a PE TT kit for sale?
Thanks guys.... will put up a current spec list of my car soon....
I'm new here and from the UK
There seems to be alot more info here the the UK equivilant forums so I thought i'd post something for comparisons.
I'm thinking of going FI soon probably starting with the stock motor... I've read that both the PE TT (small turbo's) and the Vortech are quite kind to the engine internals in comparison to APS, Greddy, HKS, etc...
I'm running a late 2002 JDM 350z with nitrous.
2 questions:
1) Anyone here run either or both of these setups? Which one is preferrable and why?
2) Used vortech kits seem to come up in a blue moon, but I've never seen a used PE TT kit. Has anyone ever seen a PE TT kit for sale?
Thanks guys.... will put up a current spec list of my car soon....
#2
PE kits were very expensive and didnt make much power.
Your nitrous setup probably makes more power than either of those options though. The member Gurgen on here uses a PE setup for road racing and he really likes it.
I like my vortech but for someone that has the option between a turbo and belt driven SC, turbo hands down.
Your nitrous setup probably makes more power than either of those options though. The member Gurgen on here uses a PE setup for road racing and he really likes it.
I like my vortech but for someone that has the option between a turbo and belt driven SC, turbo hands down.
#7
I had a PE TT kit. I picked it up used...... https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...t-build-3.html .... I had a fun time installing it and it turned out great I think. If I had it to do over again I would go w/ the s/c ( for my type of driving etc. ) I do not like the "instant boost" the PE TT kit gives. Also when/ if you get a pett make sure it has the cast manifolds and also water cool it from the start. PM me if you have any questions.
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#8
Hi mate, I spoke to Zmanalex the other day about turbo and SC opinions as he has run both on his currect car.
It comes down to cash, Turbo is the best but most $$ route but SC is cheaper and safer on the stock block.
Ill have a chat with you tomorrow mate!
It comes down to cash, Turbo is the best but most $$ route but SC is cheaper and safer on the stock block.
Ill have a chat with you tomorrow mate!
#9
I don't agree with this statement. I see it a lot on here, and I don't know where the idea came from. Any form of FI will destroy a motor as fast as another. I have seen people post blown motors with the Stillen super conservative setup.
#10
ya a blower being safer is BS. i had my cog belt fray on me and shorted out some wires which in turn fried my UTEC and stock ECU. People feel that Vortech's are safer because you can use basically any pulley combo and not surpass the commonly accepted trq limit on the stock rods.
Turbo doesnt have belts spinning all over the engine bay, u can use springs or a boost controller to control your HP, and its not a constant parasitic load on the motor
Turbo doesnt have belts spinning all over the engine bay, u can use springs or a boost controller to control your HP, and its not a constant parasitic load on the motor
#11
My statement above was the SC is a safer bet as the way it build boost puts less strain on the rods and gives the engine a better chance of living with the boost.
I did not mean that the SC is any more reliable than the turbo as i no turbos require less maintinace when fitted.
I did not mean that the SC is any more reliable than the turbo as i no turbos require less maintinace when fitted.
#12
My statement above was the SC is a safer bet as the way it build boost puts less strain on the rods and gives the engine a better chance of living with the boost.
I did not mean that the SC is any more reliable than the turbo as i no turbos require less maintinace when fitted.
I did not mean that the SC is any more reliable than the turbo as i no turbos require less maintinace when fitted.
The PE kit is not bad (minus the manifold issues). Very torque oriented power band. I've seen them produce 480whp/480wtq here.
#14
i would say go with gtm also since u can upgrade just the turbo's in the long run so, it would be cheaper for u if u want to upgrade.
i had PE-TT before u can't even feel the lag if theres any :P but realy it an nice kit if u don't want any thing past say 540whp since i made 503whp/534wtq with 16psi (built short block/stock heads cams) i think it was. drove the car realy hard never had a single problem with the kit water temp 90c and oil like 190F or so with just koyo thick one.
the only down side was the manifold tend to crack BUT that was with older kits SS manifold the new ones have cast manifold . if u looking to get a used it just make sure to get the newer manifold not the SS or u can buy a set for 1200 from pe
https://my350z.com/forum/shop-builds...1-500rwhp.html
i had PE-TT before u can't even feel the lag if theres any :P but realy it an nice kit if u don't want any thing past say 540whp since i made 503whp/534wtq with 16psi (built short block/stock heads cams) i think it was. drove the car realy hard never had a single problem with the kit water temp 90c and oil like 190F or so with just koyo thick one.
the only down side was the manifold tend to crack BUT that was with older kits SS manifold the new ones have cast manifold . if u looking to get a used it just make sure to get the newer manifold not the SS or u can buy a set for 1200 from pe
https://my350z.com/forum/shop-builds...1-500rwhp.html
Last edited by 350z-900whp; 04-24-2009 at 11:04 PM.
#15
ya a blower being safer is BS. i had my cog belt fray on me and shorted out some wires which in turn fried my UTEC and stock ECU. People feel that Vortech's are safer because you can use basically any pulley combo and not surpass the commonly accepted trq limit on the stock rods.
Turbo doesnt have belts spinning all over the engine bay, u can use springs or a boost controller to control your HP, and its not a constant parasitic load on the motor
Turbo doesnt have belts spinning all over the engine bay, u can use springs or a boost controller to control your HP, and its not a constant parasitic load on the motor
Broken vortech belt = 2500 dollars!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
#16
It would be preferrable for me to go for the PE TT over the vortech... but the problem is mainly the cost.
PE TT is close to £7,000.00 or like $10,000. That's a lot of money for a mere 80bhp gain.
Do many used PE TT kits up on here?
I've never seen a single one in the UK for over a year and a half so I'm not holding my breath on that!
PE TT is close to £7,000.00 or like $10,000. That's a lot of money for a mere 80bhp gain.
Do many used PE TT kits up on here?
I've never seen a single one in the UK for over a year and a half so I'm not holding my breath on that!
#17
IMO, on a stock block, one TT kit is as good as another. I would expand your choices and go with a used kit from a reputable member/shop if you want to save some $$$. A new APS TT Tuner kit is cost effective as long as you don't have plans to build the block down the road - check with Z1motorsports or Forged.
#18
The initial kit only adds "80 whp" ( thats what PE and other companies say with the exception of stillen which really DOES add only 50-100 hp haha ). But with all the add on's that you need to make it reasonably safe you can be at a safe 400 rwhp instead of 230-240ish for a stock DE.....thats a big jump and puts the car in to a completely different league.
Note hp figures vary significantly from car to car so don't get hung up on the number to much but look at a dyno sheet to see the power curve and decide which best fits your style of driving.
Note hp figures vary significantly from car to car so don't get hung up on the number to much but look at a dyno sheet to see the power curve and decide which best fits your style of driving.
#19
its a myth on running low power till prevent your motor blowing.. some blow on 320 whp.. some blow on 500whp.. no choice of kit is going to make it any safer.. i would go with the GTM kit instead of PE Kit
#20
I love the power and torque from my PE kit and It's JDM which does give some bragging rights over a shop put-to-gether turbo kit. I have the cast manifolds and went with the PE over the APS because I had reasonable power goals and have a 5AT so I didn't want a power band that was more even. So far I've been pleased my car does the quarter at 12.8 at 9psi which is just as fast as some higher horse TTs that don't pull as strong on the lower end. I had to immidiately upgrade the injectors and fuel return system supplied with the kit because it won't supply enough fuel past 5psi, I'd also suggest a boost controller and bov so you control the boost instead of the internal waste gate setup. I did a UTEC instead of the technosquare but I hear good things about the square and most those guys are getting better numbers than me