another FI clutch option: Spec Super twin disc
07-15-2009, 05:57 AM
#24
funny I didn't come across this thread before. Troubles me to see people having issues with this clutch. it would be a GREAT option for people. Twin disc, holds high HP, and just over a grand!
My experience with a spec clutch:
I had a spec 2+ and had issues with it. Don't know what the cause was, but the clutch was not holding properly. It seems the pressure plate was putting out uneven clamping pressure. Exactly half of the flywheel had hot spots while the other half had normal wear. Clutch disc sdid seem to be wearing properly. The setup was replaced under warranty.
I then ran it for about 5K miles till it began to slip when I upped the boost/power. clutch began to slip @ 14 psi (~500 on a dynapak). {APS twins, 8.8:1 CR}
Now with that said, my buddy is running his spec 2+ @ over 500 (15 psi on same dyno) on the same type of build with no signs of slip. I also had a local run the same spec an an APS single and it was great
I upgraded to a the ATS twin disc. Don't know the street price now, but it was just under 2 grand. It has been great thus far. At 2 grand it seemed like a bargain compared to the exedy offerings some recommend.
Seem to be getting long winded, but back to the point at hand -> I ended up with a $2K clutch, that I felt like I got a bargain on..... this spec offering would be a phenominal deal at $1100, if it delivered per its rating/spec
Would love to hear some more reviews from those running it
My experience with a spec clutch:
I had a spec 2+ and had issues with it. Don't know what the cause was, but the clutch was not holding properly. It seems the pressure plate was putting out uneven clamping pressure. Exactly half of the flywheel had hot spots while the other half had normal wear. Clutch disc sdid seem to be wearing properly. The setup was replaced under warranty.
I then ran it for about 5K miles till it began to slip when I upped the boost/power. clutch began to slip @ 14 psi (~500 on a dynapak). {APS twins, 8.8:1 CR}
Now with that said, my buddy is running his spec 2+ @ over 500 (15 psi on same dyno) on the same type of build with no signs of slip. I also had a local run the same spec an an APS single and it was great
I upgraded to a the ATS twin disc. Don't know the street price now, but it was just under 2 grand. It has been great thus far. At 2 grand it seemed like a bargain compared to the exedy offerings some recommend.
Seem to be getting long winded, but back to the point at hand -> I ended up with a $2K clutch, that I felt like I got a bargain on..... this spec offering would be a phenominal deal at $1100, if it delivered per its rating/spec
Would love to hear some more reviews from those running it
07-15-2009, 07:17 AM
#26
mine does great when driving. Its very notchy goin from neutral to 1st . I have to go from 1st to 2nd and back to 1st with the clutch in before it will finally engage. I have to call spec and see what they think about that.
It came with a much larger throwout bearing, but I'm wondering if it shoulda been bigger.
I had adjust the pedal engagement height some as well.
I'll be pulling it out when i do my motor swap and can check the flywheel then.
Its great once you are rolling, but coming from a stop is a huge PITA bc it wont just slip into gear.
It came with a much larger throwout bearing, but I'm wondering if it shoulda been bigger.
I had adjust the pedal engagement height some as well.
I'll be pulling it out when i do my motor swap and can check the flywheel then.
Its great once you are rolling, but coming from a stop is a huge PITA bc it wont just slip into gear.
07-15-2009, 09:41 AM
#27
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mine does great when driving. Its very notchy goin from neutral to 1st . I have to go from 1st to 2nd and back to 1st with the clutch in before it will finally engage. I have to call spec and see what they think about that.
It came with a much larger throwout bearing, but I'm wondering if it shoulda been bigger.
I had adjust the pedal engagement height some as well.
I'll be pulling it out when i do my motor swap and can check the flywheel then.
Its great once you are rolling, but coming from a stop is a huge PITA bc it wont just slip into gear.
It came with a much larger throwout bearing, but I'm wondering if it shoulda been bigger.
I had adjust the pedal engagement height some as well.
I'll be pulling it out when i do my motor swap and can check the flywheel then.
Its great once you are rolling, but coming from a stop is a huge PITA bc it wont just slip into gear.
Just no mula for OZ and ATS right now.....f*** mates, for tha money i can get my self a spot at the sea in Moz.
This f/i is killing me
.
11-04-2009, 06:13 PM
#29
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i also have this clutch and i am having lots of issues with it. At low RPMS the car is chattering like crazy.. when i engage in first gear it always make a loud chattering sound.. sounds horrible.. like a dumptruck.. also sometimes when im in gear it is really hard to shift out of gear.. seems like the short shifter is getting stuck or something... i reinstalled the short shifter and it still seems to do that.. i think something is definately wrong with this clutch.. its been on my car for about 20k miles.. i didnt realize anyproblems until 15k+ miles. now it just seems like crap.. my car is vortech supercharged and am going twin turbo in the next couple of months.. i think i am going to have to get rid of this clutch soon...
11-04-2009, 07:15 PM
#30
all lightweight flywheels chatter. Thats normal.
I called Spec the other day. Tech was helpful. I have a very hard time getting into 1st and reverse. I'm going to check my throwout bearing as the issue I am having would lend itself to that. We did the install on our backs under the car, so something might have slipped during the install.
The motor is out of the car now and on a stand so I can guarntee it wil go back in correctly. Hopefully it all works out.
I called Spec the other day. Tech was helpful. I have a very hard time getting into 1st and reverse. I'm going to check my throwout bearing as the issue I am having would lend itself to that. We did the install on our backs under the car, so something might have slipped during the install.
The motor is out of the car now and on a stand so I can guarntee it wil go back in correctly. Hopefully it all works out.
11-04-2009, 11:10 PM
#32
not wanting to go into first or reverse sounds to me like an issue with disengagement... it sounds like this clutch needs more throw of the release bearing then it gets... you could adjust the peddle like crazy to press the plate further for more disengagement, but then you risk losing engagement pressure and torque rating when the peddle is up not to mention release bearing and thrust washer wear if the peddle adjustment at highest position was still pressurizing the system. i wonder if you could rebuild the clutch master cylinder and upgrade the size a tad to get more push into the slave cylinder with the same peddle throw?
i wouldnt mind doing that anyway, i may not need it with my clutch, but if i could get full disengagement with less peddle travel i would be very happy, i could put a peddle stop under the clutch then... would be ideal for all the powershifting.
i wouldnt mind doing that anyway, i may not need it with my clutch, but if i could get full disengagement with less peddle travel i would be very happy, i could put a peddle stop under the clutch then... would be ideal for all the powershifting.
Last edited by phunk; 11-04-2009 at 11:14 PM.
02-13-2010, 02:08 AM
#36
^George, the ats/carbonetic is a good all-around clutch that maintains nice street manners. For more power and/or drag racing, I would look into a tilton, though they are pricier and more difficult to street drive. RPS appears to have a decent product, but they have expressed little/no interest in our market so I would not advise that unit at this time.
02-13-2010, 10:47 AM
#39
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As for likely trouble? another reason why I asked for an update.
but what would you suggest to put in my Z?... 08 HR...