str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

the ss will be way to much clutch for that power level.

a single full face disc like a clutchmasters 350 would be fine.

That said, the SS spec drove kinda like stock but noticeably heavier, but alot better if you got a RJM clutch pedal adjuster.

projektZ

iTrader: (18)

I have the SS, at first I thought it had an issue from reading this thread but it was just the slave cylinder needed to be replaced. Have had it on there for a couple of years now with no issues at 515rwhp This clutch is very street friendly compared to the ACT 6 puck I had previously. Tearing my motor down again to squeeze some more power of it so I might go ahead and upgrade to something that can hold more torque while I'm at it. The SS holds great at my power level but since I'm tearing down the motor I want to be ready for potential 800hp

Z_on_TE37's

iTrader: (3)

The act 6 puck was my other choice, would I be better off with this clutch for street drivability even if it is a little overkill for strength? I know it's for 900ft lbs of torque, but if I can tolerate it better than I don't care If I spend more money on it.

ttg35fort

iTrader: (2)

FYI, I had a Clutchmasters twin disc that was supposed to be good to certainly more than the 500 whp or so I was putting down at the time. It wasn't. It fried within weeks. I did launch hard, but I was not over slipping it. That was nearly 6 years ago, so maybe they have made changes to their design since then, I don't know. Nonetheless, the one I had was nowhere near being able to hold the hp Clutchmasters stated it was good to. I called them after the clutch fried, and they would not cover it under warranty.

I replaced it with a Carbonetics triple disc, which is holding strong thus far. It was not just the addition of the third disc that made the difference. Each clutch plate in the Carbonetics is significantly larger than the Clutchmasters clutch plates, at least in the Clutchmasters unit I had. The surface area of the clutch plates looks to be at least 50% larger.

Carbonetics now is out of business, but it is my understanding that ATS now makes the same, or similar, clutches.

ttg35fort

iTrader: (2)

Also, the Carbonetics is way smoother than the Clutchmasters, much less like an on/off switch.

To clarify, I originally thought the Cluchmasters was not too bad considering my neighbor, who raced, told me that high hp clutches were almost unmanageable on the street. So, when I went with the Clutchmasters, this is what I expected. The Clutchmasters, however, was manageable, and I thought that that was pretty good considering the hp it was supposed to be able to handle. When I changed to the Carbonetics, I expected it to be kind of like the Clutchmasters. To my pleasant surprise, it was much smoother. Not quite stock, but quite a bit closer to stock than the Clutchmasters. I have since installed the RJM Clutch Pedal Assembly, and it is even better. I am very happy. It sucks that Carbonetics is no longer in business.

projektZ

iTrader: (18)

Well if you never plan on working out your legs then trying to drive home you might ok. If you don't work out your left leg will def be much stronger for it. Lol. Seriously though I thought the ACT 6 puck was harsh and not fun to drive on the street. Worked great at the track when I was running 420rwhp.

Don't know how fast you need a new clutch but if you can wait I will be selling my SS in the next few weeks since I'm chasing higher HP/TQ numbers with my new build. I also have the ACT still, if you were local I would just give you it, been in the garage for 5+ years.

Z_on_TE37's

iTrader: (3)

The money isn't what bothers me, I'd rather spend the extra money on the twin disc since it sounds to me like it will be easier to push and also smoother to engage, sounds to me like everybody's 6 puck is an on off switch and the twin disc is smoother and softer pedal feel due to the fact that the force is distributed to 2 discs instead of one? Correct me if I'm wrong

OldManZ350

iTrader: (23)

I have an Acts 6 puck with HD pressure Plate. Pedal is fine as far as hardness, just a little more than stock. But it is a bit OFF/ON. But you just feel that in 1st gear from a start and I can slip it a little bit. I hoping it will be better after the install of the RJM Clutch Pedal Assembly....

ttg35fort

iTrader: (2)

ATS clutches are expensive, but if they perform like the Carbonetics, which they should, they are well worth the money.

http://www.ppi-ats.com/FAQs.html

Z_on_TE37's

iTrader: (3)

Question for anyone who installed this clutch kit, what all did It come with? Will I need to purchase a throw out bearing separately? And if so where do I buy one at, I read that the one for this clutch isn't stock size.

binder

iTrader: (8)

The ACT 6 puck and comp clutch stage 4 6 puck clutches were both way more harsh and heavier pedal than my carbonetics triple. I honestly thought the ACT and comp clutch 6 puck clutches to be the heaviest pedal I've ever felt in that car. My OS giken twin was heavy but not as bad as those singles. Carbonetics triple is very soft compared to those.

Z_on_TE37's

iTrader: (3)

Well I went ahead and ordered the ss trim today, hopefully I like it. And just incase anyone else was wondering, it comes with a throw out bearing, pilot needle bearing, alignment tool, and all necessary hardware, as stated by a tech at spec.

Z_on_TE37's

iTrader: (3)

I installed my ss trim twin disc last night, the car runs and drives great. It's a little shaky for me from a stop due to the tiny engagement window, but I'm sure I'll become used to it. I'm not sure if it's just me but the car has shut off on me twice so far when I'm coming to a stop, not sure if I'm stalling it out or if I did something wrong. Also, chatter is very loud at idle, and when im in too high of a gear and put it under a load it has an extremely loud winding sound. I'd appreciate any input on my problems!

eZg

iTrader: (5)

Can you post a video that captures the 'Whine' sound??

While I don't know $hit it would help others help you.

gl

absurdparadox

iTrader: (1)

Just thought I would throw my 2 cents in about SPEC as a company.

A few years ago, I was running a BPU 3000GT VR4 with a Spec clutch, and one day, running at the track, I was going for a new best time, and wasn't lifting while shifting. Not the safest for an AWD car.

Anyway, not sure what its called, but I ended up breaking one of the 6 levers that actually pulls the pressure-plate off of the disc off. Was completely honest with what happened. They replaced it at no cost very painlessly.

binder

iTrader: (8)

The issue with stalling when pressing the clutch in is due to the light flywheel and the rpms dropping fast. If you have a car you can tune then adding some fuel to the cells below the idle rpm and maybe 1-2* timing in that area will help. I have my idle bumped to 1050 to combat it with my light carbonetics. It also helped some to do an idle air relearn (throttle body relearn).

lp_turbo

iTrader: (8)

Hey str8dum1 , I just ordered for SS-trim clutch Spec, I just seen you have installed them on 04-23-2009, still fine?? Btw your pm box is full.

Do you have any advice to tell me relating to this clutch?
I also ordered the kit RJM performance ..

Thanks

Lucas

str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

i'm still on the same pressure plate but had new discs put in a couple years ago to match my new turbo setup.

no issues with slip or whatnot.

lp_turbo

iTrader: (8)

You run with oem clutch master cylinder?
I have RJM pedal kit and still have trouble to change gears with high rpm, over 5000
Someone have already tried master cylinder of 350z 07-08? ..little bigger than 03-06.

jdm-v35

iTrader: (7)

The whole reason you would have trouble changing gears is because of the RJM pedal. If you adjust it incorrectly the pedal doesn't get enough stroke and itll get stuck in gears. It makes it easier to drive but at the cost of reducing master cylinder travel. The master cylinder change probably wouldn't help you.