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Fixing A Rear Main Seal Leak

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Old 04-26-2009 | 02:20 PM
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Default Fixing A Rear Main Seal Leak

What's the best way to do it. Do i just slap it on like cupcake frosting or do I have to remove the seal and RTV it?
Old 04-26-2009 | 02:30 PM
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best way is to remove it and do it properly.

Use RTV on the mating surface, then carefuly slide it on over the crank, usually what happens is that the spring seal gets caught and folds over and doesn't seal.
Old 04-26-2009 | 02:39 PM
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Only satan himself could design a rear main seal with so many probelms on these VQ motors.

The rear main weeps "just a bit" on my 30K mile and counting built motor so I can somewhat at a very small level feel your pain on this one. Unfortunately, all the feedback I have received centers around the "remove and replace" method to do it right.

If it was my car I would pull it apart do whatever it took to make it 100%, especially a brand new built motor.

Good luck Jet, I know that is not what you wanted to hear.

Last edited by ToastZ; 04-26-2009 at 03:28 PM.
Old 04-26-2009 | 02:57 PM
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I was watching power block TV this morning and they were talking about this product.

http://www.barsproducts.com/E10L.htm

Unfortunately you have to add it to your oil everytime. No experience with anything like this.

Usually and a remove and replace if you want it done properly.
Old 04-26-2009 | 03:49 PM
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I was hoping to use it at the track this Saturday and fix it afterwards.
Old 04-26-2009 | 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by JETPILOT
I was hoping to use it at the track this Saturday and fix it afterwards.
How bad is it leaking ?
Old 04-26-2009 | 07:19 PM
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it is a very slow leak. it took about a half an hour for it to start to form a droplet (engine idling), but not large enough for the droplet to fall from the tranny case. after sitting all night, there were a dew drop of oil on the ground last night.
Old 04-26-2009 | 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by JETPILOT
I was hoping to use it at the track this Saturday and fix it afterwards.
a leaking rear seal wont make a track day much fun if it is bad enough to get on the flywheel and clutch, and with flywheel/crank spinning fast at high rpm it will sling oil all over the tranny

but if it is not bad you can take a shot
Old 04-26-2009 | 10:12 PM
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If you have access to a shop/lift I would do it before the track. It will only lead to dis-satisfied performance at the track...And we know you don't want that!
Old 04-26-2009 | 11:11 PM
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I was thinking that it could also be the rubber seal for the oil pan right under the rear main seal.

I don't have time before Saturday to do anything.
Old 04-27-2009 | 04:27 AM
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Yeah you need to just take it off and do it right Larry. I always run a nice thick layer of grey RTV on the whole bottom half of the rear main seal. I only had a problem with one a long time ago and no issues since that one.



Good luck and give me a call if you need any tips.
Old 04-27-2009 | 05:28 AM
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we followed the service instructions very carefully. I noticed that everyone besides nissan uses ALOT of rtv on that seal...........now, I know why!!
Old 04-27-2009 | 05:55 AM
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Drop the trans and upper pan and just fix it. It will take a LONG day's work, but it will be worth it. If you race with that leak, your entire underside of the car will be coated in oil.

There is definately still time to fix it before Seibring...do it.
Old 04-27-2009 | 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by QuadCam
it is a very slow leak. it took about a half an hour for it to start to form a droplet (engine idling), but not large enough for the droplet to fall from the tranny case. after sitting all night, there were a dew drop of oil on the ground last night.
That sounds like a lot to me, but I only have experience with my own leak. To call mine a "leak" maybe a little too strong of words. Its more like a weeping that ends up as a slight oil film right at the bottom of the trans housing. Its not enough to cause oil droplets or oil puddles under the car, but its enough to take notice.

If Jet's is leaking enough to cause a puddle (even a small one) under the car, I would agree with Sharf and fix it or the whole underside of the car may be covered in oil before the end of the event.
Old 04-27-2009 | 11:16 AM
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if u do decide to change it u should do a DIY thread on it bc I would like to know if there is a proper way in doing it without it leaking again.
Old 04-27-2009 | 11:45 AM
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We have done it without removing the lower pan on a couple customers cars in here. We pull the rear main seal off with the tranny out ofcourse and se-silicone it with the ultra grey.The hardest part is getting the oil pan gasket back on without it getting damaged.
Old 04-27-2009 | 12:20 PM
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As I said.... I don't have time to do it before Sebring. The car is at Japtrix getting the F-CON isntalled along with other things. Roger decided to take the day off today even though I said the car would be there today!!!!!

So that leaves me with only Tues, Wed, Thurs to get the car motor broken in, Install the F-CON, Install the fuel surge tank, Install the rear wheel studs, and a whle bunch of other things. Friday I go to get an alignment. So there really isn't time.

I don't think it's the rear main seal. I think it's the rubber oil pan seal under the rms.

Larry
Old 04-27-2009 | 12:38 PM
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Where is the rear main seal? Pics?
Old 04-27-2009 | 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Barzten1
Where is the rear main seal? Pics?
it fits over the rear of the crank shaft....bolted on the back the back of the block and gasketed to the upper oil pan. to access it, you have to pull the tranny, clutch and flywheel.....
Old 04-27-2009 | 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Barzten1
Where is the rear main seal? Pics?
right where the oil pan meets the block... why do u have an oil leak?


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