His crew will be there with a trailer I believe.

Wonder what you could do with a built block?

 

Jet Mech had said it loses power and had some nice dynos to back up his statements. something about mechanical advantage loss is true based on the reading i did.

 

How many miles are on your stock block before you went f/I? By the way congrtas on the numbers. Makes me want to get the 2.87 pulley and meth. LOL

 

The rods will just bend first. If you can catch it during the stage where they are just bent and possibly barely tapping on the side of the block, then you can salvage a lot of parts. It is just a time bomb waiting to happen after they are bent and it could be minutes or hours before it throws it through the side of the block.

 

+1
happened with my car, though if you're driving hard a lot at the time or tracking it, you're likely to just go boom if you're running a lot of power. It's a subtle thumping sound when a rod is bent. You might not even hear it if you have a loud exhaust or are driving hard at the time

 

Intercooler upgrade, and a steady and steady convincing pull to a true 15psi with the new trim. (probably 16psi reading on the typical Defi gauge). First time I have seen this before....we were collectively shocked in a good way. I have no problem tuning SC's (lower trq) to low 12's AF ratio....perfectly safe....havent lost any yet. Ignition timing is far more critical than AF ratio, when it comes to long term safe tune.

 

Recognizing that tuning is an art form and tuners don't like to advertise what they do , what would make you feel uncomfortable with respect to timing...How much timing (pulling) would you not want to end up with for S/C's..TIA

 

are you DE or HR?

 

Awesome number OP! Hope the block holds...

Speaking of stock block vortechs, I'm currently running with a 2.87 w/ 650cc's on a daily driven revup stock block with max psi @ about 12psi. Still running well on a good conservative tune @ 435 whp on a dynapack with about 11.5 AFR *knock on wood*. But I don't really drive crazy unless I'm on the track, usually about 3~4 times/yr. But who knows how much longer my block will hold...

If I wanted to go to the extreme and go SI/T-trim with an impeller, how built does my motor need to be? Will rods be sufficient?

I'm getting ready for the day that my stock block goes and I'm wondering how built the engine needs to be for an even more agressive vortech setup...

 

He has non revup

 

The standard build is always rods, pistons, studs, and gaskets. Cams are also worthwhile as well and tons cheaper to do the 1st time as well.

With a built motor, you'll probably make less power than stock, unless you go with stock compression aftermarket pistons. But, you wont have to worry as much about grenading the motor when passing 400 ft-lbs on a dyno dynamics.

When I build, my blower is goin up for sale and on to a gt3071 .86AR TT kit.

 

Well, I may be interested in your blower when that time comes...since I can't get away with a TT here in California...

 

people making 400whp with 3.12 pulleys are usually on inflated dynos. i barely got 390whp with a 2.87 pulley making 12psi.

 

ya thats why I love it when people ask how much hp each pulley makes. the ranges are so huge, ive seen almost 100 hp between pulleys.

But i'd still love to see some of these big # 3.12" setups get on the 2.87 and have a good pull bc I know my car isnt making even inflated #'s that big at 9psi.

Either way, its just a tuning tool that shows a nice bump in power over stock and thats really what's important.

 

What do you think about the 2.62 pulley?

 

cant really run those on our setups.

 

+1

I can't wait to get a retune. I haven't decide if I want to go with smaller pulley without return fuel system.

But even I stay with 3.12, it will be fun to compare now and new tune..

 

Strong words there, seems that u are insinuation something?
Nice to see the power out of that set up.
I got a question you can ask during the time of the tune. On a dyno dynamics what was the Correction Factor number at the time of the tune or better yet what are ambient conditions at the time of the final #s? Temp, Baro and Inlet temps.
In any case at the end is what is the start and what is the final figures and if there are gain across the whole power band then that is all we ever desire.

 

That is what it is at the end of the day.

 

it was a 5% correction based on humidity air temp and barometer.

just for giggles I'm going to get a dynojet done locally, so it has some standard #'s to compare with.