UTEC with both MAP and MAF??
hi guys.. i have a little problem.. i listen to mutch to different persons,
im going with the Greddy TT and TurboXS UTEC,
i started of with MAP sensor and air temp sensor.
that was the best way to go i was told. but yeasterday when we started the engine for the first time it was running like crap!
so i pluggen in the MAF sensor again and everything worked fine..
in the UTEC manuall it says clearly that the maf sensor isnt good enough for FI
so...my thought now is that the car uses OEM ECU with MAF when im driving slow (under 4000rpm) and then the MAP/air temp takes over.....does it work like that??
i hope you understand what the hell im talking about
im going with the Greddy TT and TurboXS UTEC,
i started of with MAP sensor and air temp sensor.
that was the best way to go i was told. but yeasterday when we started the engine for the first time it was running like crap!
so i pluggen in the MAF sensor again and everything worked fine..
in the UTEC manuall it says clearly that the maf sensor isnt good enough for FI
so...my thought now is that the car uses OEM ECU with MAF when im driving slow (under 4000rpm) and then the MAP/air temp takes over.....does it work like that??
i hope you understand what the hell im talking about
https://my350z.com/forum/7346322-post142.html
While you're at it read the thread starting at page 6. Alter Ego was screwing with some guys, so take it for what its worth. There is some good info in that thread.
While you're at it read the thread starting at page 6. Alter Ego was screwing with some guys, so take it for what its worth. There is some good info in that thread.
yes...that's how it works.
your car will run off the oem ecu/maf sensor belwo your are below your "takeover" setting. once you exceed the takeover point, then the utec with its MAP sensor takes over and uses your programmed settings for the injectors and ignition.
your car will run off the oem ecu/maf sensor belwo your are below your "takeover" setting. once you exceed the takeover point, then the utec with its MAP sensor takes over and uses your programmed settings for the injectors and ignition.
what a realife
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you don;t want to do that. the stock ECU is very good and MAF is a great way to meter air(much better than MAP.) Let the stock ecu handle all the daily driving aspects!!!
for you to set the UTEC to always be in control, you have to set the lowest MAP setting to about -10 psi, which would really limit your resolution on the positive pressure side of things. You only hace 10 load sites to work with. Your tuning would have to be dead nuts accurate as the UTEC would be doing alot of interpolating between load sites.
you probaly being using 3-4 load sites for the vacuum side of tuning, and the other 6-7 sites for the boosted side. Not a good plan! I have a feeling that your daily driving, part throttle response etcera would flat out suck! (i could be wrong though.) Nissan has spent so much time tweaking the stock ecu to run right under normal conditions (which is about 99% of the time you drive your car.) LEt the nissan ecu do its job for it was designed for. it is a much better, faster, and more powerful processor than the UTEC.
for you to set the UTEC to always be in control, you have to set the lowest MAP setting to about -10 psi, which would really limit your resolution on the positive pressure side of things. You only hace 10 load sites to work with. Your tuning would have to be dead nuts accurate as the UTEC would be doing alot of interpolating between load sites.
you probaly being using 3-4 load sites for the vacuum side of tuning, and the other 6-7 sites for the boosted side. Not a good plan! I have a feeling that your daily driving, part throttle response etcera would flat out suck! (i could be wrong though.) Nissan has spent so much time tweaking the stock ecu to run right under normal conditions (which is about 99% of the time you drive your car.) LEt the nissan ecu do its job for it was designed for. it is a much better, faster, and more powerful processor than the UTEC.
you can prolly use it. just figure out what wire in the harness sends the air temp signal, cut it and splice in the TXS signal.
assuming its the same voltage range and not a CAN bus data, it should be a piece of cake.
not sure why you'd wanna do that anyhow??
assuming its the same voltage range and not a CAN bus data, it should be a piece of cake.
not sure why you'd wanna do that anyhow??
I don't think the spare solenoid port will work for an air temp sensor.
the TurboXS tuner may have a port for adding an extra sensor though. are you running the Tuner, too?
btw, I wouldnt bother with an extra air temp sensor.
the TurboXS tuner may have a port for adding an extra sensor though. are you running the Tuner, too?
btw, I wouldnt bother with an extra air temp sensor.
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