I don't need to clear codes to get it running, I just shut it down 10 secs and restart and it runs normally. Annoying, but as long as I'm not jumping in my car trying to escape a deranged killer I should be fine.

Wed. I am having the UTEC swapped. Wish me luck.

 

Good luck to you and the OP.

 

You know when limp mode really sux. When you are in the middle of a race. I always feared going into limp mode on the track. lol.

 

So I'm guessing you're not married.

 

lol... I'll check for the water, i didn't even thing about it, but I did seal it up with silice and a special caulk that swelled around the grommet, but like you said Sharif, I certainly could have missed something. As always everyone, thanks.

Djamps, good luck with the swap... what are you swapping with exactly?

 

Actually yea, but the wife is too scared to drive it since I got the twins. And luckily I got a couple other cars I can use if I'm escaping from the house in a hurry LOL.

 

So I cleared all the codes the other day, and got p1444 purge volume valve flow and wrong time. Could this be the problem or part of the problem or is this something that is normal with boost blowing the valve open? Any thoughts.

I'm going to clear the codes and then try to get it into limp mode while driving and pull that code at that immediate time. Standalone is definately something i'd like to go with in NY state... But because of our inspection laws I dont think I would be able to pass. Anyone in NY running standalone and passing inspection legit?

 

I passed in CT with an F-Con and CT is more strict than NY State

 

Thanks Doug, well i'm just about to leave work and truly hoping to figure out this issue sometime this week. I checked the Utec like shairf said also, that sucker is sealed up tight as a whistle. All i can think of is something between the throttle body and the accelerator. Who knows at this point, BUT I will let everyone know eventually when i find out, so anyone else fighting this issue can hopefully not have to go through the same thing.

Thank you to everyone for helping me out thus far guys, if anything comes to mind just keep throwing out ideas.

 

i have the same problem + my car loose power and no boost. just left the shop and the only thing the can say is that my stock ECU is the one causing all the problems. going shooping for a stock ecu tomorrow to see if that fix the problem. i will keep u posted and good luck to u!

 

I have similar issues with my built APS TT G35 with UTEC. Out of nowhere it drops in to limp mode and the code is always related to the APP.

Just a heads up, the APP is the accelerator pedal - the pedal connects to the ECU, then the ECU talks to the throttle body. So, APP codes aren't necesarrily throttle body codes, even though they are drive by wire codes. The APP contains two signals (for error detection) and if they arn't the precisley right ratio it throws a code. You wouldn't think the UTEC would modify these voltages in any way but I find it strange that several UTEC owners have had issues, and I've heard about the purge issue before at high altitude with the UTEC (another thing you wouldn't think the UTEC would mess with).

I think the ultimate answer is either replacing the UTEC or going with a stand alone throttle body controller!

 

kpierson is absoulutely right, i had the same problem with the codes for months, even changing everything from the TB to the MAF, and finally JAPTRIX realized that it was the ACCELERATOR PEDAL SENSOR that was throwing bad CODES to the UTEC until it ruined it, i changed the APP and the UTEC and never had a problem since

Hope that helps

Rafa
11.3@128

 

So if I change the APP now, since my utec is still good, theoretically I should be ok? Because I was just about to start ordering all the above and do trial and error.

 

Yes, only change for now the APP, dont waste ur time and money changing the TB or the MAF($450) like i did.

I think the APP assembly is about $250

 

Thanks man, did you buy one used or a brand new one and from nissan or a vendor on the forums. I hope that this will solve my issue, you still runnign utec?

 

I highly doubt it's the APP - my money is on the UTEC. It's the one thing that seems to stand out among all the people posting.

My next step in diagnosing mine is to get my Cipher out and log the APP1 voltage and the APP2 voltage. Then, I will drive around until the code pops up and compare the log. The log, should theoretically, show me which APP voltage is out of whack. I can then monitor the actual voltage coming from the APP on the suspect channel to see if it ever does anything strange.

I have a spare APP already, but like I said I'm leaning more towards it being a UTEC problem then an APP issue.

 

No i bought a new APP, but thats why i said u have to check carefully if the wrong codes that the APP sent to the UTEC ruined it, i am still running UTEC but its a new one.

My mechanic(japtrix) also diagnosed something related with the voltage and mine was completely out of whack thats why we decided to change both parts the APP PLUS THE UTEC, and problem solved.......

 

I swapped my UTEC today and the startup issue is gone. I haven't thrown any codes yet either. I've only driven about 50 miles but I did restart the car at least 20 times and no issues at all, yet *fingers crossed*

One thing I noticed with my old UTEC, is that while starting the engine the 'slip' and 'vdc' light would blink momentarily until the car started...that is gone now so I think the new UTEC is working out great.

Props to turboXS for trading the thing out without question on a walk-in and for the guys at AAM for taking care of the swap and reprogramming at no cost.

 

I didnt have the problem for almost 4000 miles. I am in the process of ordering a new APP and getting that in because thats the code I keep throwing.

The new Utec you got, anything different as far as software or updates or same thing as what's being sold recently.

 

Same software AFAIK. We just downloaded the map from the old one and uploaded it to the new one. Set the global params and everything worked perfectly. The old UTEC was only 4-5 months old.

I was throwing TB codes since the first week I had the original one. If I can go 4000 mi between codes now I'm more than happy!