So I was driving to Zdayz and while on the highway the car just lost complete throttle response and the slip light came on. I pulled off to the side, shut the car off, restarted it and it was gone. About 20 minutes later it happened again this time I just put the car in neutral and shut it off then turn the key to the on position. Didn't have the problem for the rest of the trip to Zdayz and back. Drove it to work yesterday and on my way home, it happened right by my house, this time back to back within 100 feet.

From what i've read it has something to do with 0-5v and 5v-0, something about the thottle sensor. I also replaced the trans right before Zdayz, but all of the tranny sensors are in tight and operating. When I plugged the car in I got the following codes.

P1706- P/N Switch cylinder circuit not changing
P2138- Wrong APP rationality signal

Wondering if anyone can give me a little insight to why this would be happening.

I have a Utec and everything still runs strong minus this PITA issue thats popping up.

Any thoughts? Thanks in advance guys!

 

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LOL, yea hopefully its not a reoccuring problem

On another note i've been hearing about something with the drive by wire. This is making no sense to me, I mean if one second the car drives fine then all of a sudden it the slip light comes on and it doesn't want to move, makes me think something is loose. When I went through everything its tight, could a circuit of some sort be going bad?

 

recheck to make sure the cranksensor is back in properly.. i didn't tighten mine and randomly the car was running rich, backfired and then shut off.. i manage to pull in to a gas station.. got under the car and saw it was loose.. tighten her up and she was good to go.. if its loose you will run into this issue

 

Ill check that when I get home tonight, thanks.

Doug, when this happened to you, did the slip light come on in your dash?

 

Yeah but that **** comes on if I don't zip my pants right.. Any little fault that light comes on

 

ok, so i checked that last night and no luck, still happening. I checked rest of the sensors on the throttle body trans under the car, can't find anything that would cause a problem... Sound like a reason to go full standalone? lol... Any other thoughts?

 

http://www.technosquareinc.com/350reset.htm

If you messed with your throttle body, it might be necessary to perform the bottom three procedures on the Technosquare page I posted above... Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning... Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning... and... Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning).

They are tricky to get right, but they might help you out...


-jb

 

I never messed with the throttle body, but its worth a shot. I've been driving the car since beginning of april every week without any issues, then bam this limp mode... Ill check it out jb, thanks man.

 

By chance, had it been raining when this happened?

 

Not a topic, but...Would this work on Reflash ECU (rough idle)?

 

i have always ignored my check engine light assuming it was not a big deal. drove up to NorCal several months ago with the CEL light on with no issues.

on the way back down to SoCal, driving on the 101 near San Jose, car would go into limp mode. Pulled over, turned off engine and restarted, drive another mile or so and engine would go into limp mode. Did this so often I decided to turn back and go to ZCar Garage, which fortunately was not so far away. While driving in city streets, had no issues. Car would only go into limp mode on the hwy.

got to ZCar and the guys were eating lunch so I waited 45 minutes. Rob got into the car and tried to replicate the problem, but nothing. He did reset my CEL, but the code I had was bank one being lean.

i drive the rest of the way home to San Diego without any further issues. I still get the bank one lean code every so often, but my car has not gone into limp mode since than.

it was raining that day I drove back to San Diego.

Sharif - what effect does the rain have?

running APS ST with HKS FCon

 

I had this exact same thing happen after going through car wash (for the first and last time). Car stayed in limp mode until I got home, shut it down, then restarted it. I think Sharif may have the answer.

 

Well it was raining on the first time down to Zdayz, but it did not happen in the rain once back in NY. I happened a mile from my house in 75 or so degree weather... Last night I drove it for about 20 minutes or so and then it happened again when I was stopped at a light, shut down... restart and then no problem.

 

My boosted 5AT with a UTEC was doing much the same for almost 16 months. I was getting a different code though....a TB code I think.

In any event, I took the car to Sharif....he replaced the UTEC with the F-Con and no more LIMP.

 

Something just tells me though that its not the utec, I just have that feeling for some reason... It has been running fine for over two months with zero issues.

 

Water can leak through the main engine harness grommet, particularly, if you have other wires and things routed through there. It's just a possibility I would check out. If some water came in, it probably fried the UTEC....usually doesnt damage the ECU.

 

^+1, i know all about that!

 

My utec causes limp mode every now and again (tb codes), def. not water related. However mine only goes limp at start up, never once while driving. That would freak me the fluke out.

 

+1 ...limp ONLY at start up ~50% of the time. Before switching to the F-Con I had a laptop in the car at all times with the CIPHER software to clear the TB codes. Motor performed as expected once the code was cleared and no TB issue was ever diagnosed.