My VQ35HR Build
08-13-2009, 06:12 PM
#28
I've known some speed shops to use this strategy when building 1/4 mile cars. They actually utilize some kind of engine specific cement to fill all of the water ports. There is no need to use water cooling when the car is only on for 1/4 mile. Doesn't have to endure any where near the temps of a daily in traffic. And its 1 less thing to worry about leaking. No coolant = no coolant leaks.
Interesting project. Curious to see how long it lasts. What are the build plans. Twin Turbo set-up? Big Single? Supercharger? Do share. Track car? 1/4 mile exclusive?
Interesting project. Curious to see how long it lasts. What are the build plans. Twin Turbo set-up? Big Single? Supercharger? Do share. Track car? 1/4 mile exclusive?
08-14-2009, 07:56 AM
#29
There are a couple of different companies that make block guards for our motors. The ones I found are KMS and SuperTech. The SuperTech look to have more details in them.
The SuperTech block guards are $192 (plus the cost of tig welding and decking).
http://store.excelerateperformance.c.../i-252955.aspx
If you like buying parts of Ebay, the KMs block guards are $130.
From a structural sense, the block guards make alot of sense. From the little research I have done so far, it appears that they are not as strong as sleeving, but reduce cylinder movement in high HP builds. Some people are claiming that they do reduce cooling in the upper part of the cylinder, which would not be good. Nonetheless, both the SuperTech and KMS block guards have numerous small cooling passages and, of course, they will need to be drilled out with much larger cooling passages to match those in the head gasket.
Another solution could be to only use portions of the block guard at structurally significant locations. For example, instead of completely surrounding the cylinders and then drilling holes, perhaps weld in a 2" section on the two opposing portions of each cylinder that are aligned with the rotation of the crank.
The SuperTech block guards are $192 (plus the cost of tig welding and decking).
http://store.excelerateperformance.c.../i-252955.aspx
If you like buying parts of Ebay, the KMs block guards are $130.
From a structural sense, the block guards make alot of sense. From the little research I have done so far, it appears that they are not as strong as sleeving, but reduce cylinder movement in high HP builds. Some people are claiming that they do reduce cooling in the upper part of the cylinder, which would not be good. Nonetheless, both the SuperTech and KMS block guards have numerous small cooling passages and, of course, they will need to be drilled out with much larger cooling passages to match those in the head gasket.
Another solution could be to only use portions of the block guard at structurally significant locations. For example, instead of completely surrounding the cylinders and then drilling holes, perhaps weld in a 2" section on the two opposing portions of each cylinder that are aligned with the rotation of the crank.
08-14-2009, 08:13 AM
#31
George, you can take pics of mine after you guys complete it. 
When you or sam get a chance, I would like to get your machinist's thoughts on whether to use the block guards as is or to only place pieces of them at strategic locations, as I described above.
When you or sam get a chance, I would like to get your machinist's thoughts on whether to use the block guards as is or to only place pieces of them at strategic locations, as I described above.
Last edited by ttg35fort; 08-14-2009 at 08:14 AM.
08-14-2009, 09:34 AM
#32
08-14-2009, 09:42 AM
#33
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Will have pics hopefully today the block is back and starting to be assembled. It looks nice and perfectly matches the headgaskets. Btw we had a 5 angle valve job done too
08-14-2009, 09:55 AM
#35
Regardless of which method is used, this should be done before the cylinders are bored and hoaned.
Here is one link I came accross from this forum some 4 years ago:
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...o-sleeves.html
I'm somewhat surprised more people did not investigate this further as an option to be used instead of sleeving given the temperature issues with sleeving. If it were not for the temperature issues, I would have opted for sleeving.
Perhaps it might be prudent to use only portions of the block guard as I described above, and recessing these as far down in the gap as practical before welding. The pins as described in the link you provided also can be added for further support.
EDIT: This is educated speculation here, but I would assume that you would want to make sure that the distance between the bottom of the cylinders and the pins should be different than the distance between the pins and the block guard pieces. This should reduce any resonances that may occur.
Last edited by ttg35fort; 08-14-2009 at 10:09 AM.
08-14-2009, 10:32 AM
#36
but will these studs really hold the movement of the block ? couldn't find enough info about it
=======================================================
good info about block gard
http://www.b20vtec.com/forums/engine...rd-good-2.html
=======================================================
good info about block gard
http://www.b20vtec.com/forums/engine...rd-good-2.html
08-14-2009, 03:08 PM
#37
but will these studs really hold the movement of the block ? couldn't find enough info about it
=======================================================
good info about block gard
http://www.b20vtec.com/forums/engine...rd-good-2.html
=======================================================
good info about block gard
http://www.b20vtec.com/forums/engine...rd-good-2.html
