Cable TB swap
07-22-2009, 10:44 AM
#21
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It would be cool to see a module made that took the throttle motor output from the ECU and generated an expected TPS signal to send back to the ECU. The ECU would then think it was controlling the throttle body and you could do whatever you want to the TB.
This would help if you were just trying to go with a cable system or if you wanted to recalibrate the DBW system and go with a stand alone electronic TB controller.
As long as you keep the two TPS voltages within the expected range going back to the ECU I don't see why this wouldn't be possible on an OEM ECU. The conversion wouldn't be too bad either, just a pulse width to analog voltage converter.
This would help if you were just trying to go with a cable system or if you wanted to recalibrate the DBW system and go with a stand alone electronic TB controller.
As long as you keep the two TPS voltages within the expected range going back to the ECU I don't see why this wouldn't be possible on an OEM ECU. The conversion wouldn't be too bad either, just a pulse width to analog voltage converter.
07-22-2009, 12:25 PM
#22
It would be cool to see a module made that took the throttle motor output from the ECU and generated an expected TPS signal to send back to the ECU. The ECU would then think it was controlling the throttle body and you could do whatever you want to the TB.
This would help if you were just trying to go with a cable system or if you wanted to recalibrate the DBW system and go with a stand alone electronic TB controller.
As long as you keep the two TPS voltages within the expected range going back to the ECU I don't see why this wouldn't be possible on an OEM ECU. The conversion wouldn't be too bad either, just a pulse width to analog voltage converter.
This would help if you were just trying to go with a cable system or if you wanted to recalibrate the DBW system and go with a stand alone electronic TB controller.
As long as you keep the two TPS voltages within the expected range going back to the ECU I don't see why this wouldn't be possible on an OEM ECU. The conversion wouldn't be too bad either, just a pulse width to analog voltage converter.
08-26-2009, 07:31 PM
#24
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the aftermarket units (I got a 75mm) for the 4.6 liter Mustangs are very, very close. I'll post pics of mine soon, but I was able to just slot the holes on the tb and it worked perfectly with an unported Cosworth plenum
08-28-2009, 04:47 PM
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Haltech
I'm not using a tps on my throttle body at all - no room with the cosworth plenum. TPS on mine is the sensor on the gas pedal. I also didnt want to hack up the plenum to get a bigger throttle body in there, and 75-76mm seemed to be about as big as the cosworth throat would accept
I'm not using a tps on my throttle body at all - no room with the cosworth plenum. TPS on mine is the sensor on the gas pedal. I also didnt want to hack up the plenum to get a bigger throttle body in there, and 75-76mm seemed to be about as big as the cosworth throat would accept
09-01-2009, 07:11 AM
#30
I took a good look at Haltech and Pro EFI. Even though they are both amazing and proven systems, I feel they are not the direction I want to take with my car anymore due to some of the other things I am looking to do.
One of the other things that keeps popping up is electrical issues related to when NCR originally had my car in 2005 and blew the motor up. There was a number of things they did to my engine harness of which I was unaware of at the time and problems with the harness seem to keep popping up.
01-18-2012, 11:20 AM
#32
bump for old thread. anyone have a cable TB? I figure I'd need a Q45 tb along with some sort of 70 to 90mm adapter.
My TB doesnt hold its calibration it seems. I reset it and its 0% at idle, after i drive it for a while, idle is like 3%, which starts to mess with my idle controller. If I have to replace my TB, I'm just gonna simplify and go to a 3" cable TB.
Already read that the 240sx pedal bolts right up, so it would only be like 150$ in parts to swap to a more responsive option.
My TB doesnt hold its calibration it seems. I reset it and its 0% at idle, after i drive it for a while, idle is like 3%, which starts to mess with my idle controller. If I have to replace my TB, I'm just gonna simplify and go to a 3" cable TB.
Already read that the 240sx pedal bolts right up, so it would only be like 150$ in parts to swap to a more responsive option.
01-19-2012, 05:29 AM
#35
I ran a cable throttle on the green 350z (per racing requirements, mech throttle only) and I would advise to use the stock throttle or upgraded electronic throttle (for example, LS based engine w/ larger throttle) for stock like idle and drivability. If you go to mechanical throttle be sure to add an idle air controller to the system (parts + wiring required) to get nice startup/cold idle/hot idle. We have changed multiple cars to mechanical throttle for various reasons like drag racing and individual throttle bodies and we modify the stock pedal every time. It is fairly simple with a little time and thinking outside the box.
01-19-2012, 05:41 AM
#36
I know of the VQ 240 swaps we have done, the 350z electronic pedal assy literally bolts to two studs on the fire wall exactly. I have never gone the other way(240sx pedal assy in a 350) but I imagine it will bolt right up and then just set a stop on the floor...
01-19-2012, 05:52 AM
#37
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Converting to the cable on my car was also straightforward, used the stock gas pedal, made a nice bracket, and it was done. You'll see how it needs to be once you're down there. My cable is super short as well, maybe 3-4 feet total, which helps overall response (though I never had a complaint with the stock drive by wire setup).
Can't see the point in swapping to a 90mm throttle body only to mate it to a 70mm adapter and neck it down that much. Defeats the purpose of the larger throttle body and creates potentially a worse bottle neck than a stock plenum has. The largest mine (Cosworth) would take was what we ended up with, which IIRC is a 75mm or 76mm unit.
Believe it or not, I've run all this time without any idle air control. Cold starts are the only negative.....I treat it like a carb'd car and just keep my foot on the pedal to about 1500 rpm till the 02's cycle, then it idles fine on it's own. It works fine with the a/c on, and hot start/idle has not been a problem. One of these days I'll get the Haltech or similar IAC setup in there, just haven't gotten around to it.
You'll also need to reconfigure your tps. I swapped wires around on the Haltech and flashed the stock ecu to not emit a TPS signal as I recall, as the Haltech looks for it in the usual spot otherwise. Can't quite remember the details though as it's coming on 5 years now since it's been done
Can't see the point in swapping to a 90mm throttle body only to mate it to a 70mm adapter and neck it down that much. Defeats the purpose of the larger throttle body and creates potentially a worse bottle neck than a stock plenum has. The largest mine (Cosworth) would take was what we ended up with, which IIRC is a 75mm or 76mm unit.
Believe it or not, I've run all this time without any idle air control. Cold starts are the only negative.....I treat it like a carb'd car and just keep my foot on the pedal to about 1500 rpm till the 02's cycle, then it idles fine on it's own. It works fine with the a/c on, and hot start/idle has not been a problem. One of these days I'll get the Haltech or similar IAC setup in there, just haven't gotten around to it.
You'll also need to reconfigure your tps. I swapped wires around on the Haltech and flashed the stock ecu to not emit a TPS signal as I recall, as the Haltech looks for it in the usual spot otherwise. Can't quite remember the details though as it's coming on 5 years now since it's been done
05-06-2012, 04:48 PM
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anyone have a build thread with pictures and steps... im fixing to do a swap, but needing ideas on setups that work good.
my z is having problems when ita barely cool outside, will not full throttle until its hot outside. anx aatching the throttle position on my datalogger, its very slow when i hit the throttle wot. just got the car so im trying things out
my z is having problems when ita barely cool outside, will not full throttle until its hot outside. anx aatching the throttle position on my datalogger, its very slow when i hit the throttle wot. just got the car so im trying things out
05-07-2012, 06:31 AM
#40
This is not a small undertaking or for the weak of heart. Remember there is no idle air motor, so cold-start and hot driving will be impacted by removing the drive by wire. Also the stock computer will be very upset by this. I would suggest a Haltech ems as mandatory with the switch to cable. If you are trying to diagnose or fix a slow throttle response problem I would look elsewhere.
anyone have a build thread with pictures and steps... im fixing to do a swap, but needing ideas on setups that work good.
my z is having problems when ita barely cool outside, will not full throttle until its hot outside. anx aatching the throttle position on my datalogger, its very slow when i hit the throttle wot. just got the car so im trying things out
my z is having problems when ita barely cool outside, will not full throttle until its hot outside. anx aatching the throttle position on my datalogger, its very slow when i hit the throttle wot. just got the car so im trying things out