Lets talk about what all is needed to do a cable throttle body swap.

I have seen some people talk about using some of the older pathfinder parts to at least get the pedal in the car. Getting a TB itself is no biggie but everything else is being a bit tricky.

 

I am intrested as well. Does the stock ECU get feedback from the throttle body other than the TPS such as motor resistance?

 

I am also interested in this myself... Would like to run an 80mm throttle body on my car.

Things that I would like to see addressed...

1) What type of cable is used to connect the pedal to the TB? is is an OEM one form a different car or can you use one of those Lokar ones.

2) Will a GM TPS sensor work?

3) How to you keep the OEM ECU from freaking out that the OEM TB is no longer there? Mostly so it will not put the car in limp mode and disable the cam timing...

 

And how would one address idle air since the factory Tb does that duty.
The mechanics of it would be easy,even tps wouldnt be difficult, the only real annoyance I see would be idle air since currant ems options dont support it..

 

I would not mind doing this as well, I can't wait to see what you uncover.

 

You will need a full standalone that will be able to run only with the tps sensor. You will need a cable, one from a 240sx would work. You would have to custom weld a couple of brackets onto the pedal and probably onto the new throttle body to hold the cable. Then you should easily be able to covert it.

Any TPS sensor that is a 0-5 volt will be able to be setup on your standalone computer.

You will not be able to get the factory computer alone to work with a cable due to the amount of things it does with the drive by wire.

If you have a full standalone like a Haltech Platinum, you could just run it without the factory computer in there. Haltech will control the cam timing.


Any standalone will be able to control the idle air control valve that you will have on your new throttle body.

 

Im sure the Haltech "could" do the job but as it sits the plug in platinum pro 350z model does not have provisions for idle air in the software package provided, that isnt to say that the unit/hardware dosnt have the needed stepper driver on the board ready to go, who knows maybe that will be available in the software soon

 

The IAC would only be necessary if you run A/C wouldn't it?

 

 

+1 My tuner told me he can do it with the F con v pro as well.

 

This is an excellent thread

 

Just curious as to why you want to swap? Just to be different? People are making well over 1000 hp on the stock TB.

Sounds like a lot of hassle unless you were building a very specific drag car.

 

Easier to make over 1000bhp if you can run say an 80 or 90mm TB. Simplify things.

The TB itself, TPS sensor and even the IAC are no real biggie to me since I know most of the current standalones can handle everything and I know of one car running an Fcon with a cable TB and another with a haltech. I mainly want to know how people are setting up the pedal inside.

I have a manifold design in mind but i dont want to waste my time making it if im still stuck with running the factory 70mm TB.

I hope Injected will chime in on this thread since i believe they are running a cable TB.

 

I have setup multiple cable throttle bodies between our drag car (cable throttle required for drag racing) and ITB setups, and have a few things to share. First, the pedal is no problem... I use the factory 350Z pedal and drill a hole through the back for the throttle cable. I use a universal throttle cable, similar to the one pictured below. The new throttle body will have a 0-5V TPS which can be calibrated in your standalone of choice. I use the Haltech Platinum 350Z plug&play standalone because it gives full control of fuel, ignition and CAM TIMING. This means when the factory computer goes into "limp mode" due to no drive by wire system in place, nothing changes (other than CEL, which can be turned off with reflash).

Regarding idle air motor... this is the one tricky area. I idle the cars up a bit (1000rpm or so), and use coolant temp ignition correction to advance timing at idle when the engine is cold to help raise the idle.

 

^^^ Thanks Hal!! ^^^

I know we talked abut it before, but could not remember all of the details. I am running FCon, so I plan on using a Honda IAC or something similar since the FCon can control that too... With FCon however it does not control cam timing, so if I remove the Drive By Wire TB, I am wondering if by reflashing the ECU and disabling the fault codes associated with the TB if the cam timing would still function properly?

 

I'm not convinced the stock TB is a restriction or limiting factor until well beyond 1,000whp. And how many of you guys who are expressing interest in doing this mod are even close to mid 1,000whp power levels?

With the exception of running an ITB setup... this swap seems like an unnecessary mod with questionable benefits for anything less than a high power drag car IMO.

 

is anyone boring out the stock throttle bodies? i think somebody used to a long time ago but it wasnt really needed back then... now theres probably a few cars out there that could use it. i would have mine done for sure.

 

I think people were running into DBW and TPS issues after doing this.

 

http://www.proflowdesign.com/services.htm

I had a bored out 350evo throttle body back in the day but my car did not run correctly with it so I returned it.

 

Im sure you could get a Honda IAC or possible a Mustang or LSx idle control and use an aux 0-5 volt feed out of the Haltech to work it off of coolant temp if you wanted to.


I would use whatever bolted up to the throttle body of choice that you plan on using.