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Old 07-22-2009, 05:58 AM
  #21  
Alberto
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The kit was $743.89

The tank alone was $129.00

Has a 3 bar map sensor, low fluid sensor w/wiring, progressive controller, filter, etc, etc.

You can ask the guy at AC to look up my invoice, or PM me the spec sheet and I'll email you the invoice if you're interested. I forget what the nozzle is rated at right now, I went with his largest single nozzle system.

Everybody that has seen the kit, lines and pump has commented how much "beefier" the kit looks compared to theirs. I run 100% meth which can be hard on fittings so far so good.
Old 07-22-2009, 06:24 AM
  #22  
rcdash
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The key difference with the price of kits is whether you want injection to be progressive with rpm, boost, or both. The more expensive kits ($700-$900) allow the latter. The other differences include use of a high speed valve versus cycling the pump and presence of fail safes to detect flow interruption. I like the idea of direct port injection for a number of reasons, but a few will keep me from implementing it most likely:

1. It's more complex, requiring 6 nozzles (does someone sell a kit?).
2. It minimizes AIT reduction due to decreased time for evaporation.
3. It doesn't really account for air flow imbalance to different cylinders.

Last edited by rcdash; 07-22-2009 at 06:25 AM.
Old 07-22-2009, 06:29 AM
  #23  
GreenGoblin
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Terry is doing a direct port system, he could answer your concerns.
Old 07-22-2009, 06:31 AM
  #24  
BriGuyMax
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Originally Posted by Alberto
The kit was $743.89

The tank alone was $129.00

Has a 3 bar map sensor, low fluid sensor w/wiring, progressive controller, filter, etc, etc.

You can ask the guy at AC to look up my invoice, or PM me the spec sheet and I'll email you the invoice if you're interested. I forget what the nozzle is rated at right now, I went with his largest single nozzle system.

Everybody that has seen the kit, lines and pump has commented how much "beefier" the kit looks compared to theirs. I run 100% meth which can be hard on fittings so far so good.
Very nice looking and low key (I like that). The only difference for me is I would like to use the factory washer res. for a tank instead of one in the hatch.

Are you using the Haltech to trigger the kit?
Old 07-22-2009, 06:35 AM
  #25  
BriGuyMax
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Originally Posted by rcdash
The key difference with the price of kits is whether you want injection to be progressive with rpm, boost, or both. The more expensive kits ($700-$900) allow the latter. The other differences include use of a high speed valve versus cycling the pump and presence of fail safes to detect flow interruption. I like the idea of direct port injection for a number of reasons, but a few will keep me from implementing it most likely:

1. It's more complex, requiring 6 nozzles (does someone sell a kit?).
2. It minimizes AIT reduction due to decreased time for evaporation.
3. It doesn't really account for air flow imbalance to different cylinders.
DevilsOwn offers progressive kits for ~$400, and they seem to have tons of satisfied customers. I guess I'm trying to figure out why their kit is half the price of other progressive kits, and if it's really worth it to spend more.
Old 07-22-2009, 06:39 AM
  #26  
Alberto
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No I am not. I have a seperate map for the 2 meth boost settings, and I manually turn the controller on. The kit does the rest.

The kit also has warning lights for any clogs and/or when the filter is dirty, and you can "purge" the meth to the nozzle before you start a run. The LED changes color as it goes from "on" to "ready". The lights are mounted in my A-pillar pod. If you wanted it more low key the line being
hidden obviously would be easy to do.

Pic of Meth light...if you dont look for it, you wouldnt see it, same for the controller. And if I dont pop my hood or hatch you cant see $hit...


Last edited by Alberto; 07-22-2009 at 06:40 AM.
Old 07-22-2009, 07:13 AM
  #27  
rcdash
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Originally Posted by BriGuyMax
DevilsOwn offers progressive kits for ~$400, and they seem to have tons of satisfied customers. I guess I'm trying to figure out why their kit is half the price of other progressive kits, and if it's really worth it to spend more.
Pretty sure that unit is progressive by boost only. If you're only going to use water, I don't know that 2D tuning is that important (George and Gurgen will not be happy with that statement ). Methanol is a fuel though and being able to adjust for rpm and load seems particularly important.

Last edited by rcdash; 07-22-2009 at 07:15 AM.
Old 07-22-2009, 07:27 AM
  #28  
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Well it is if you are bumping your timing that much to gain 100 hp

Ya theres a huge jump in price when going from progressive by boost to progressive my airflow/rpms etc. How aggro you are tryin to run your meth map will really dictate how much you need to spend.

Originally Posted by Alberto
605/530 as my weakest power level is conservative?
Old 07-22-2009, 11:45 AM
  #29  
BriGuyMax
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Originally Posted by rcdash
Pretty sure that unit is progressive by boost only. If you're only going to use water, I don't know that 2D tuning is that important (George and Gurgen will not be happy with that statement ). Methanol is a fuel though and being able to adjust for rpm and load seems particularly important.
Ok, I see the point BUT, I'm only planning to have the water/meth activate @ 9-10lbs of boost and up. I did some driving around today at partial throttle in boost and I'm NEVER seeing 9+lbs of boost in my driving unless I'm full throttle. So tuning on boost reference alone shouldn't be an issue. Heck, my UTEC's tune is all load based on boost.
Old 07-22-2009, 11:49 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Alberto
I also run the Jkenefic spec Alkycontrol kit.

The kit is very nice, seems overbuilt but that is never a bad thing.

100+whp and 150+ft/lbs using 93 + meth over just pump gas.

I'll post pics of it if you want to see it.
How much more boost to pick up that power with the meth tune?
Old 07-22-2009, 12:02 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by BriGuyMax
Ok, I see the point BUT, I'm only planning to have the water/meth activate @ 9-10lbs of boost and up. I did some driving around today at partial throttle in boost and I'm NEVER seeing 9+lbs of boost in my driving unless I'm full throttle. So tuning on boost reference alone shouldn't be an issue. Heck, my UTEC's tune is all load based on boost.
So boost is basically constant. So what's the point of a progressive boost controller? Use a fixed triggered spray and save even more $$$ (can adjust amount with nozzles). I think a trigger on boost (from EMS), but a progressive rpm controller would be a better low cost alternative for a WOT application.
Old 07-22-2009, 12:14 PM
  #32  
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Not sure if I mentioned..."Real men use 100% meth"....
Old 07-22-2009, 02:07 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by rcdash
The key difference with the price of kits is whether you want injection to be progressive with rpm, boost, or both. The more expensive kits ($700-$900) allow the latter. The other differences include use of a high speed valve versus cycling the pump and presence of fail safes to detect flow interruption. I like the idea of direct port injection for a number of reasons, but a few will keep me from implementing it most likely:

1. It's more complex, requiring 6 nozzles (does someone sell a kit?).
2. It minimizes AIT reduction due to decreased time for evaporation.
3. It doesn't really account for air flow imbalance to different cylinders.
I agree direct port would have advantages. I was going to go direct port then pussied out I looked at the intake and time I had for the build and got lazy. I might go diect port over the winter. I was going to build my own direct port set up even one large nozzel that branches into 6 ports should work or possibly have 3 nozzles that each Y off. Something like that should work and might be slightly simpler than the 6 nozzels.

My feeling was when it comes to cost on a meth kit saving $300-400 wasn't going to be the deciding factor on what kit to buy if your tuning aggressively with meth if the kit fails your engine is in jeporady $400 extra seems cheap compaired to a new motor. I know of a snow kit that failed on a guy i know that has an Evo causing engine failure and 1 Roe racing kit that failed on a guy I know that has a super charged Viper causing some minor engine damage. Think about that and don't cheap out I am not saying buy the most expensive one but do some home work as it appears you have.

Last edited by Sylvan Lake V35; 07-22-2009 at 02:10 PM.
Old 07-22-2009, 02:08 PM
  #34  
BriGuyMax
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Originally Posted by rcdash
So boost is basically constant. So what's the point of a progressive boost controller? Use a fixed triggered spray and save even more $$$ (can adjust amount with nozzles). I think a trigger on boost (from EMS), but a progressive rpm controller would be a better low cost alternative for a WOT application.
That would be a good idea, but I'd probably have the "build" a kit like that myself. We'll see, I'm still trying to learn all the ins and outs of meth injection.
Old 07-22-2009, 03:47 PM
  #35  
Alberto
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Originally Posted by BriGuyMax
How much more boost to pick up that power with the meth tune?
7psi
Old 07-22-2009, 04:41 PM
  #36  
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Its kinda crazy to tune soo deep on meth that if theres a problem, your motor is going to blow. Thats why the simple on/off works just fine for my setup and will most likely be just fine for my next build. You are still tuning the car, so when you get the meth to kick in, you will lean it out and advance timing in that area.

Originally Posted by Sylvan Lake V35
I agree direct port would have advantages. I was going to go direct port then pussied out I looked at the intake and time I had for the build and got lazy. I might go diect port over the winter. I was going to build my own direct port set up even one large nozzel that branches into 6 ports should work or possibly have 3 nozzles that each Y off. Something like that should work and might be slightly simpler than the 6 nozzels.

My feeling was when it comes to cost on a meth kit saving $300-400 wasn't going to be the deciding factor on what kit to buy if your tuning aggressively with meth if the kit fails your engine is in jeporady $400 extra seems cheap compaired to a new motor. I know of a snow kit that failed on a guy i know that has an Evo causing engine failure and 1 Roe racing kit that failed on a guy I know that has a super charged Viper causing some minor engine damage. Think about that and don't cheap out I am not saying buy the most expensive one but do some home work as it appears you have.
Old 07-22-2009, 05:23 PM
  #37  
BriGuyMax
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Originally Posted by Alberto
7psi
That will definitely help
Old 07-22-2009, 05:43 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by str8dum1
Its kinda crazy to tune soo deep on meth that if theres a problem, your motor is going to blow. Thats why the simple on/off works just fine for my setup and will most likely be just fine for my next build. You are still tuning the car, so when you get the meth to kick in, you will lean it out and advance timing in that area.
The ViPEC reads the meth and if it turns off, clogs or reads low float level it switches maps immediately. I'm sure its not fool-proof, but it does add some safety.
Old 07-22-2009, 06:26 PM
  #39  
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I dont know if its been mentioned . But I would not use the washer fluid tank . Its hard to get it so it doesnt leak . The w/m mix will harm your paint when used to clean your windows . An external tank can be put in the rear as well as the pump .
Old 07-22-2009, 07:47 PM
  #40  
BriGuyMax
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Originally Posted by booger
I dont know if its been mentioned . But I would not use the washer fluid tank . Its hard to get it so it doesnt leak . The w/m mix will harm your paint when used to clean your windows . An external tank can be put in the rear as well as the pump .
Wat? Normal windshield washer fluid IS a mix of water/methanol. It doesn't hurt your paint at all or else all of us would already have paint damage. In fact many people use the normal blue washer fluid in their meth injection setups. My washer res doesn't leak at all.


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