Blown Vortech, please help
for rizzle my nizzle shim bam bizzle.
without knowing what parts of the motor are trashed, if any, theres not much help anyone can be. Straight up swapping to a new stock longblock would be the easiest solution.
Building a built shortblock is no cheaper than buying a fully built longblock as the exact same amount of labor has to go into each.
Assuming you dont do any of the work yourself, you'll be in good hands with a stock block swap at under 5000$.
without knowing what parts of the motor are trashed, if any, theres not much help anyone can be. Straight up swapping to a new stock longblock would be the easiest solution.
Building a built shortblock is no cheaper than buying a fully built longblock as the exact same amount of labor has to go into each.
Assuming you dont do any of the work yourself, you'll be in good hands with a stock block swap at under 5000$.
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well this is way out of porportion, this group is so quick to point fingers and start drama. The default responce from all of you is that Tech was trying asking abuot some sort of legal issue about getting his car fixed when if fact...
he was simply asking about what should he do for the next application. He isnt asking about what he should do or not do to or against the tuner. He is asking that now that he has to make a move should he remain with a stock block with this set up with more free flowing exhaust mods
or
because of the power levels, go with a built block?
Thats why I NEVER post on 350z anymore....everyone gets all butt hurt like it was their car, none of you know or understand the situation fully so your opinions are useless.
he was simply asking about what should he do for the next application. He isnt asking about what he should do or not do to or against the tuner. He is asking that now that he has to make a move should he remain with a stock block with this set up with more free flowing exhaust mods
or
because of the power levels, go with a built block?
Thats why I NEVER post on 350z anymore....everyone gets all butt hurt like it was their car, none of you know or understand the situation fully so your opinions are useless.
The OP was instructed where to go to get the full info/cost and what he would need from PFS, FP or IP.....I told him how to go about it in PM and some of it in this thread.....I have even contacted a shop on his behalf and ask them to help him out....What more can I do??
I wanted to get an understanding of the Warrany not only for this OP....but for all those that would take Dave up on this offer.
Thats what we are here for...to help each other.
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From: Maryland
Thanks to several people for input and pricing I'll contact you as I press forward with a built block and tell you what power and everything I'm going with but any further into this and it will more down hill.
Going to take this back to the good old phone and work with that. Mods please lock this
Going to take this back to the good old phone and work with that. Mods please lock this
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iTrader: (1)
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,256
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From: Texas, Arizona,Cayman Island
Thanks to several people for input and pricing I'll contact you as I press forward with a built block and tell you what power and everything I'm going with but any further into this and it will more down hill.
Going to take this back to the good old phone and work with that. Mods please lock this
Going to take this back to the good old phone and work with that. Mods please lock this
You know how we roll
A stock short block + crank and some other things that I don't remember for $500.
in color video ... I hope not Hi Def
If you read the OP carefully you'll see the shop denying a warranty shortblock on the case of negligence.
So if we had added a quart every day during the last week to keep it filled and it still ran, his engine would be fine and not needing to be replaced/rebuilt?
Maybe this is a case of 'lesson learned' on more than one topic... check oil DAILY, and a 'stock block FI warranty' is nothing more marketing hype. Save the extra money you paid for the warranty for building the block when it blows instead.
So if we had added a quart every day during the last week to keep it filled and it still ran, his engine would be fine and not needing to be replaced/rebuilt?
Maybe this is a case of 'lesson learned' on more than one topic... check oil DAILY, and a 'stock block FI warranty' is nothing more marketing hype. Save the extra money you paid for the warranty for building the block when it blows instead.
So, I just got spun up on this post and allow me to add my two cents into the mix. As best as the number show in the MID-Atlantic Area, without some false hoods that run raped out there, i am putting done some of the top numbers with my Greddy Twins. I push my car like there is a fire up my *** and water is in site. I drift my car, ALL THE TIME.
I track drift my car, I dont launch it or anything like that so guess what my STOCK BLOCK is still under Warranty.
I also change my oil every month. Regardless of how many miles I put on it. As, I have a Daily Driver, I get in my car about two days a week to drive around and thats it. I go to the track once a month to Drift Nirvana and I run my car, EFFING HARD!
Out of all the comments here is the bottom line: The Customer and The Tuner need to still down together and have a converstation about the where to go from here. I consider both the parties in this situation to be friends. Business is Business so what ever the turnout the way this is handled with be seen by all. I have full trust and confidence that this will be handled the right way.
FYI: Drag racing your car voids your warranty. Drifting your car on the street is the exact same as drifting your car at the track. Hence, does not void warranty. That's what my understanding of the specific warranty in question is. As I asked prior to taking it on the track to DRFIT only.
Last edited by ZRuggernDC; Aug 20, 2009 at 01:06 PM.