2 step launch control
#63
New Member
iTrader: (26)
Tested it in the track, didn't turn out too well. My 60fts were really bad, the rpms dip before rising again, so losing some power and causing bad 60ft. Here are a couple videos
RPMs are set around 3500
The second video really shows the dip. RPMs are set at 3000, launch then dips to 2000. Anything set under 3000rpm, the module is unable to hold the rpms well. I received a CEL, misfire, when I set the rpms to 3000 rpms or lower.
I want to try to set the rpms to 4000, but that seems really high, but I might stay in my optimum torque even with the dip if I do that. Any thoughts on this whole issue? Thanks!
RPMs are set around 3500
The second video really shows the dip. RPMs are set at 3000, launch then dips to 2000. Anything set under 3000rpm, the module is unable to hold the rpms well. I received a CEL, misfire, when I set the rpms to 3000 rpms or lower.
I want to try to set the rpms to 4000, but that seems really high, but I might stay in my optimum torque even with the dip if I do that. Any thoughts on this whole issue? Thanks!
Last edited by BakaN20; 09-24-2016 at 06:31 PM.
#64
New Member
iTrader: (23)
Do you have the Traction Control ON?
I Launch at 5000rpm (no 2 step)
But I have a stout clutch and full slicks, don't know your setup.
If that is as good as the KP Version works, then it's not a real 2 step IMO
Note: It's doing something very similar to what your car is doing. It has a Long Lag Time before it gets out of the 2 step mode. " Should be Instantaneous " As soon as you start to let the clutch out, it should switch to "WOT" Meaning a Nano Second after the Car starts to move. Otherwise it's worthless......
I Launch at 5000rpm (no 2 step)
But I have a stout clutch and full slicks, don't know your setup.
If that is as good as the KP Version works, then it's not a real 2 step IMO
Note: It's doing something very similar to what your car is doing. It has a Long Lag Time before it gets out of the 2 step mode. " Should be Instantaneous " As soon as you start to let the clutch out, it should switch to "WOT" Meaning a Nano Second after the Car starts to move. Otherwise it's worthless......
Last edited by OldManZ350; 09-26-2016 at 02:14 PM.
#65
New Member
iTrader: (26)
Do you have the Traction Control ON?
I Launch at 5000rpm (no 2 step)
But I have a stout clutch and full slicks, don't know your setup.
If that is as good as the KP Version works, then it's not a real 2 step IMO
Note: It's doing something very similar to what your car is doing. It has a Long Lag Time before it gets out of the 2 step mode. " Should be Instantaneous " As soon as you start to let the clutch out, it should switch to "WOT" Meaning a Nano Second after the Car starts to move. Otherwise it's worthless......
I Launch at 5000rpm (no 2 step)
But I have a stout clutch and full slicks, don't know your setup.
If that is as good as the KP Version works, then it's not a real 2 step IMO
Note: It's doing something very similar to what your car is doing. It has a Long Lag Time before it gets out of the 2 step mode. " Should be Instantaneous " As soon as you start to let the clutch out, it should switch to "WOT" Meaning a Nano Second after the Car starts to move. Otherwise it's worthless......
Hi OLdManZ350,
Thanks for the reply. I have stock clutch and street tires. The first thing I thought of also was the traction control, but I have it off.
The way the KP Technology works is that it disables after the clutch is fully released, so that you can modulate the clutch while still being at whatever rpm you set it at. When the clutch is fully released, it hits the cruise control switch and signals the kp tech module to disable.
I analyzed the FSM even more and found out that the wire in the battery compartment controls not only the coils, but the intake vvt solenoids and the exhaust vvt solenoids. I started getting codes for the solenoids, like p0075 and the other related codes.
I tried following the kp tech instructions on their forum:
http://www.kptechnologies.com/forums...=1036&start=30
Also tried the WOT box instructions:
https://sites.google.com/a/npcomplet...-stepfeature22
For my vehicle, the wire that cut off the coils was actually part of the spliced wires. I found the condenser and traced it back. However, the wire i cut still controls the Intake VVT solenoid in bank 1, which is the passenger side. The exhaust solenoids and the Intake solenoid for bank 2 is now not triggered by the module.
I tried testing it again, but just a real quick one, didn't really have a place to do it. It seems like it is a little better, but need more time to really evaluate it.
I will try to see if there is actually one wire that is isolated and just controls the coils, but seems unlikely. So I would follow KPierson's recommendation of not cutting the wire in the battery compartment.
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