Don't get me wrong, I can smooth out engagement with more revs. I just think it's kind of annoying to deal with massive chatter below 1500rpm.

 

The aftermarket flywheel/clutch is no longer in tune with the natural frequency of the stock bushings. Stronger engine and diff mounts should help alot with the shuddering. I just ordered some from SPL, we'll see how it goes

 

If on a budget I would do the comp stage 4 and flywheel. It's more aggresive than jwt for not much more dollars.

Multiple disk carbon exedy and carbonetic are terrific but out of the budget minded individual.

 

- Let me know how it goes and then maybe we can hookup at a meet and you can take me for a ride to feel the difference. I have an Ingalls engine dampner, but it doesn't fit with the APS strut bar .

 

Clutches on these cars boggle my mind.

Pricing goes from $250-$500, then $2500+ lol

Wonder what the possibility of doing a custom flywheel/inputshaft/driveshaft, and like a T56 from a viper with a big LUK single disk (those things hold 900rwhp for them and are $200).

Tom

 

That would cost MUCH MORE than just buying a good clutch in the first place and you'd need the leg of god to handle the clutch pedal. The whole point of a multi-disc clutch is to preserve a good light (but still positive) clutch pedal while holding a lot more power and heat. The more heat I put into my carbonetic, the harder it grabs.

 

Is a shot of CO2 injected via nozzle at the clutch plate possibe for an insta cool feature? Is the trans pressurized?

I may be dreaming, but just trying to get the best possible situation to beat on my car and still drive around town afterward.

 

My car currently idles around 1600rpm, maybe thats why I don't have this issue . On the plus side, its like driving an automatic in parking lots .

 

I couldn't use my Stillen engine damper because of the charge pipes on the passenger/front side. I was hoping I could and it would solve my issue...Always something...LOL

 

Oh I fully understand.....but we have to go to multi-disk clutches because of the physical Diameter of the clutch disk. There is only so much a small diameter clutch is gonna hold.....we know that.

But the factory high tq cars, and some others too (like the 3000GT Vr4/stealth) use a LARGE disk/flywheel. My buddy has a Stealth TT making little over 800 AWHP and he is still running a carbon single disk with NO issue.....but its like 12in in diameter lol.

I know it would be a pain lol....just an idea though.....and the factory viper/vette clutches (those are all LUK)....barely know your foot is on a pedal.

tom

 

Larry, you're back!

How goes it?

 

I know the diameter is hurting us (at least we don't have hondas lol). Since there is such a large selection of fantastic clutches that will easily hold big power, I don't see any reason to go and mess with the entire drivetrain. Now if we only had a few options for clutches and none of them would hold big power, then I'd be the first on the bandwagon to change the setup.

 

OS triple, first gear is PITA, absolutely zero slip trying to go into first. other than that i cant complain, its heaven once i get her moving.

 

1600rpm idle ??

That's pretty high.

 

- Dave is on it, he's looking to see the the throttle body spring was upgraded by Nissan somewhere along the way to see if we can get it to hold a lower idle. If not, then it will require some tinkering with the ViPec to make it stay where we want it. He can set it now, but it reverts to the high idle after every shutoff.

 

I went with an Exedy chromoly steel flywheel and a southbend stage 5 clutch and love it.

http://www.dxdracingclutches.com/

 

Jwt clutch and flywheel suck azz. I was only at 400whp and after a few hard launches. The clutch pedal would feel mushie and I would have to let it cool down. To get the right feel back. The flywheel puts out a sound like you are driving a cement truck in stop in go traffic. You have to hold your foot on the clutch pedal or everyone is looking, thinking your cars sounds like sh*t. But by raising the idle, it smoothed out the loud noise coming from that flywheel which I wish I never bought in the first place. And raising the idle really helps out in stop in go traffic. Much love for a 900 rpm idle.

 

Sounds like you had a clutch fluid bleeding issue, that would have nothing to do with the clutch itself.

ALL aftermarket flywheels for the 350Z cause that drivetrain noise. It's a function of them not damping the vibrations from the motor like the stock dual mass unit. It doesn't mean they "suck azz". My Carbonetic setup is even louder than the JWT setup was.

 

Spring? Are you using a non drive by wire throttle body? I don't think the DBW wires have a spring, it's motorized.

Sounds like the vipec is fighting with the stock ecu (assuming it stays in the car and the vipec isn't a full on standalone like the motec). As best I recall the stock ecu has a number of ways to adjust idle - fuel, timing, cam timing, as well as with the throttle body itself.

 

I'm just repeating what I was told, I may have it wrong somewhere though. The ViPEC is controling the drive by wire function for sure and I assume is a full standalone since a Motec guy (Ray Hall ??) created ViPEC. Such is the cost of being the first to run a new EMS on our platform. Once the goodies are hooked up it should be very full of win.