Just got a Vortech tune ran good for only a few days.
I just got a tune for my Vortech stock 3.33 pulley, with Utec and 440cc injectors. It ran great for the first 4 days and after that it started to bog like the it was running to rich. My AFR reads about 14.7 to 15.3 at idle and 12.0 at WOT, is what it shoud be I think.
Everytime I drive for abot 15 minutes or about 10 miles my car starts to bog real badly as if it wasn't tuned at all. My SES light comes on flashing, but goes away after the car sits and evaporates all the excess fuel in my cylinders. I checked if I had it on map 0, checked for any vaccuum leaks and cleaned my MAF just in case, but it still does the same thing.
I'm gettin a reschedule for a tune, but I was wondering if anyone had ran into this issue before only a couple days after what seemed to be a good tune. Can tunes really go bad?
Everytime I drive for abot 15 minutes or about 10 miles my car starts to bog real badly as if it wasn't tuned at all. My SES light comes on flashing, but goes away after the car sits and evaporates all the excess fuel in my cylinders. I checked if I had it on map 0, checked for any vaccuum leaks and cleaned my MAF just in case, but it still does the same thing.
I'm gettin a reschedule for a tune, but I was wondering if anyone had ran into this issue before only a couple days after what seemed to be a good tune. Can tunes really go bad?
Last edited by Naminos; Sep 30, 2009 at 03:50 PM.
i dont know what to tell u really...i guess take it back and run it on the dyno for a while and see what happens...weird u are getting codes and stuff..somethin must be going on...but as far as 12.0 i hope thats not at redline cause thats a little lean..
with my tune i touch 12.0 on the hit and then level into high 11's and around 11.7-11.5 at redline...rich would be in anything lower than 11's really
with my tune i touch 12.0 on the hit and then level into high 11's and around 11.7-11.5 at redline...rich would be in anything lower than 11's really
I just took another look at me AFR while WOT it's actually at about 11 to 11.5. But I've been thinking if my one of my injectors are staying open causing fuel to flood the cylinders.
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No need to regap iridium plugs. What are you using for a fuel pump, Walbro intank or Vortech FMU? You might have a bad pump. Check your A/F when the car bogs down. You might be leaning out, and you ecu is going into safe mode.
I have an intank walbro with a fuel pressure gauge and it's getting around 53 psi so ithink that's ok. My car bogs for awhile before the SES light turns on so my ecu probably isn't in safe mode. I think I might try first the regap to see if that may help.
Flashing SES light usually means bad misfiring. Since your AFR isn't too far off I think your injectors are OK. I would look into making sure your plugs are OK and you've got spark. Perhaps one of the coils or plugs is going bad, or maybe spark blowout as other suggests. Whether fuel actually combusts or not doesn't effect the AFR by much.
Either way, stop driving it or you could wash your cylinders walls and have a much bigger issue on your hands.
Either way, stop driving it or you could wash your cylinders walls and have a much bigger issue on your hands.
+1
also 12.0 AFR is not lean or dangerous. All depends on the timing used. 12-15* is just fine. My car is set at around 12 AFR for WOT no problem.
also 12.0 AFR is not lean or dangerous. All depends on the timing used. 12-15* is just fine. My car is set at around 12 AFR for WOT no problem.
Flashing SES light usually means bad misfiring. Since your AFR isn't too far off I think your injectors are OK. I would look into making sure your plugs are OK and you've got spark. Perhaps one of the coils or plugs is going bad, or maybe spark blowout as other suggests. Whether fuel actually combusts or not doesn't effect the AFR by much.
Either way, stop driving it or you could wash your cylinders walls and have a much bigger issue on your hands.
Either way, stop driving it or you could wash your cylinders walls and have a much bigger issue on your hands.
Well I just regapped my spark plugs and won't get a chance to drive it a few miles until tomorrow, but I did start the ignition and already seemed car sounded better
thanks for the input guys.
thanks for the input guys.
It sounds like a coil problem and maybe by taking them out and putting them back in when taking the plugs out you got a better connection.
It was at stock at 44 and I brought it down to 35 and it hasn't bogged down all day. The coils were plgged down when I took them out, seemed right on to me, but hey I can't argue I'm just just glad to be driving around and happy at WOT again
id keep an eye on the cats also if u have cats or high flow cats, i went thru 2 sets of metallic high flow cats and that will make the car bog but should be an all the time thing
It would work fine, then sometimes it wouldn't. I would assume it wiggled around and made contact sometimes then not other times. I found the wire that wasn't making good contact and everything has been fine for over 6 months now.
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