How many miles on engine before TT is not good idea?
I boosted my old Z at 86k miles and ran 11.6# WG springs on 91 without any issues. In fact the motor lasted well past that, the greddy kit was removed around 125k (car was dragged, drifted, tracked, street raced etc and basically driven extremely hard) and didnt have issues.
Ironically later on the car was sold and it was back to N/A and that new owner ran the engine with the oil light for a while on which resulted in the motor finally letting go from oil starvation. I imagine the motor did consume oil later on after all the crap it was put through hah.
Prior to putting the greddy kit on I just got a leak down and comp test which checked out fine and had no problems with running appropriate mods for FI. Granted I'm up at altitude so 11.6# was roughly 9 on the UTEC map and was only about 430 uncorrected (500 corrected) and had the lovely wiggle room from being a mile high so less stress on the motor in general
My advice is just check your motor health at that time and if it checks out, then by all means FI, just ensure you have the appropriate tune and fuel system for what you are running and keep the power level modest and not extreme.
Ironically later on the car was sold and it was back to N/A and that new owner ran the engine with the oil light for a while on which resulted in the motor finally letting go from oil starvation. I imagine the motor did consume oil later on after all the crap it was put through hah.
Prior to putting the greddy kit on I just got a leak down and comp test which checked out fine and had no problems with running appropriate mods for FI. Granted I'm up at altitude so 11.6# was roughly 9 on the UTEC map and was only about 430 uncorrected (500 corrected) and had the lovely wiggle room from being a mile high so less stress on the motor in general
My advice is just check your motor health at that time and if it checks out, then by all means FI, just ensure you have the appropriate tune and fuel system for what you are running and keep the power level modest and not extreme.
Last edited by Juztin; Oct 12, 2009 at 07:57 AM.
I've been pondering TT for my car for a little while now but she has 42,700 miles on her and I still have a couple years left of payments to go.. She's an 06 Enthusiast. So I figure I may be around the 70,000 mark before I can go FI. Is it safe after that many miles or would my plan B probably be a better one..
What's plan B? Plan B is just finishing the N/A mods I plan on doing and leaving it at that then trading in the car in a couple years for a 370 (possibly nismo) and maybe get a TT for that instead while the miles are still under 30-40k. I guess I won't have an answer until I have paid the car off but would still like to know what the majority of people's mileage cut-off is for FI a car.
I currently have jwt pop / greddy evo2 catback, kinetix v4 plenum, berk aluminum z-tube.
I plan on doing - Berk HFC, a reflash and tune and then just cosmetics such as wheels, spoiler, lip, and smoking brake lights. It's possible I may start to build the engine slowly (primarily just the weaker parts that usually cause it to blow like pistons/rods etc) until I can do the TT.. But again my fear is that there will be too many miles by the time I do that to TT, I have no idea when it's not a good idea to TT anymore.
Also, another thought. Lets say my engine has somewhere between 70k-100k on it and I end up trading it in for one of the built engines that are offered by some of the online shops like Import Parts Pro etc. Would this in general get rid of most of my issues with the car having that many miles on it and wanting to TT? I'd have a new built engine but at that point there may be some other things that will need to be replaced after that many miles to be safe.
Help and Suggestions?
What's plan B? Plan B is just finishing the N/A mods I plan on doing and leaving it at that then trading in the car in a couple years for a 370 (possibly nismo) and maybe get a TT for that instead while the miles are still under 30-40k. I guess I won't have an answer until I have paid the car off but would still like to know what the majority of people's mileage cut-off is for FI a car.
I currently have jwt pop / greddy evo2 catback, kinetix v4 plenum, berk aluminum z-tube.
I plan on doing - Berk HFC, a reflash and tune and then just cosmetics such as wheels, spoiler, lip, and smoking brake lights. It's possible I may start to build the engine slowly (primarily just the weaker parts that usually cause it to blow like pistons/rods etc) until I can do the TT.. But again my fear is that there will be too many miles by the time I do that to TT, I have no idea when it's not a good idea to TT anymore.
Also, another thought. Lets say my engine has somewhere between 70k-100k on it and I end up trading it in for one of the built engines that are offered by some of the online shops like Import Parts Pro etc. Would this in general get rid of most of my issues with the car having that many miles on it and wanting to TT? I'd have a new built engine but at that point there may be some other things that will need to be replaced after that many miles to be safe.
Help and Suggestions?
BTW, how did you like that Kinetic Plenum, see much difference??
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From: Winterpeg
I don't think the Z is cut out for F1 racing, no matter how well you have taken care of the motor (unfortunately).
Use the search feature to try to find some dyno comparisons. When I was researching this, I think I found various dyno charts comparing the three options to the stock plenum. For my goals at that time, the Cosworth was my #1 choice and the 5/16" plenum spacer was my #2 choice.
Yea, I already have the spacer....which I didn't notice anything crazy with. The plenums arent that cheap, with that being said do you guys think it was worth the $$?
You realy, realy need to find the dyno chart that compares the Kinetic plenum to the stock plenum, and then the dyno chart that compares the spacer to the stock plenum. I think that if you review these dyno charts, you will find your answer. When I reviewed those charts, my choice was the spacer over the Kinetic plenum, but that was for MY desired torque curve.
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