Another Votech G35, Uprev Tuned
2. Had the Vortech Tension pulley seize up at high RPM's. 40 bucks for a replacement. It causes strange vibrating when accelerating
The tensioner for the cog belt? You might have the whole assembly in there wrong. I guess it's common. See the picture i linked at the bottom of the page.
3. GTM Pulley Mod - I did a ghetto version using a focus idler pulley, but it worked and cost 25 bucks.
I used a different pulley but i've thought about switching to that focus pulley. What size bolt do you use with it? That was my only concern. I could'nt find specs on bolt size through their bearing.
4. Vortech Whine - It's louder than expected. I wish there was a way to make it quieter, but i guess that's the price you pay for performance.
Whine? Hmm, i've never had whine. If it idles below 900 then it chatters and when it idles i have a whoosping or whistle sound, not a whine. I think of whine as like a stillen supercharger. Explain further because a vortech whine could be coming from a bearing whch isn't good.
5. The G35 stock bumper just isn't made for the intercooler. Going to have to get an aftermarket one sooner or later, which costs more $$$.
eh, it should be fine. I'm rocking a 2.87 with full built engine and my intake temps are still mild. Don't stress about it unless you have extra cash. I didn't put one on because they all reduce ground clearance and i'm lowered so i'm hosed on that.
6. Stock clutch is holding up just fine for now, which is amazing to me. I've been looking forward to getting a new one, but no excuse yet.
My stock clutch held fine on my 2.87 stock block. It died when i took it to the track. Street driving it's fine, when you put some serious traction to the wheels it will toast it. I have a comp clutch stage 4 with 500 miles on it for cheap if you need one. I had to go with a twin disk for my built engine.
7. Had trouble with "warm" start up, it would need alot of pedal work to get it started with a warm engine. Uprev fixed that real quick.
i wonder what they changed. mine is a pain in the butt but i also have 800cc injectors so i gave up trying to fight it.
8. RPM's bounce slightly because of the vortech, which I probably wouldn't notice except the whine and exhaust note resonate together, weird, but forgiveable.
This actually changes because of the airflow over the MAF. Common on our cars when you change the intake. To confirm is the airflow from the piping and maf position just take the cog belt off the vortech (so it's not spinning) and it will still bounce a little at idle.
9. The Vortech belt rubs "slightly" against one of the silicon couplers. Looks like it's not going any deeper than a notch, but it's still annoying. I've tried to reposition the pipes, but still tight.
Is it the cog belt rubbing the coupler that goes up towards the maf sensor? loosen some hose clamps and you can wiggle stuff around to get clearance. I have about 2" clearance from the belt there after messing with it for a while.
.
The tensioner for the cog belt? You might have the whole assembly in there wrong. I guess it's common. See the picture i linked at the bottom of the page.
3. GTM Pulley Mod - I did a ghetto version using a focus idler pulley, but it worked and cost 25 bucks.
I used a different pulley but i've thought about switching to that focus pulley. What size bolt do you use with it? That was my only concern. I could'nt find specs on bolt size through their bearing.
4. Vortech Whine - It's louder than expected. I wish there was a way to make it quieter, but i guess that's the price you pay for performance.
Whine? Hmm, i've never had whine. If it idles below 900 then it chatters and when it idles i have a whoosping or whistle sound, not a whine. I think of whine as like a stillen supercharger. Explain further because a vortech whine could be coming from a bearing whch isn't good.
5. The G35 stock bumper just isn't made for the intercooler. Going to have to get an aftermarket one sooner or later, which costs more $$$.
eh, it should be fine. I'm rocking a 2.87 with full built engine and my intake temps are still mild. Don't stress about it unless you have extra cash. I didn't put one on because they all reduce ground clearance and i'm lowered so i'm hosed on that.
6. Stock clutch is holding up just fine for now, which is amazing to me. I've been looking forward to getting a new one, but no excuse yet.
My stock clutch held fine on my 2.87 stock block. It died when i took it to the track. Street driving it's fine, when you put some serious traction to the wheels it will toast it. I have a comp clutch stage 4 with 500 miles on it for cheap if you need one. I had to go with a twin disk for my built engine.
7. Had trouble with "warm" start up, it would need alot of pedal work to get it started with a warm engine. Uprev fixed that real quick.
i wonder what they changed. mine is a pain in the butt but i also have 800cc injectors so i gave up trying to fight it.
8. RPM's bounce slightly because of the vortech, which I probably wouldn't notice except the whine and exhaust note resonate together, weird, but forgiveable.
This actually changes because of the airflow over the MAF. Common on our cars when you change the intake. To confirm is the airflow from the piping and maf position just take the cog belt off the vortech (so it's not spinning) and it will still bounce a little at idle.
9. The Vortech belt rubs "slightly" against one of the silicon couplers. Looks like it's not going any deeper than a notch, but it's still annoying. I've tried to reposition the pipes, but still tight.
Is it the cog belt rubbing the coupler that goes up towards the maf sensor? loosen some hose clamps and you can wiggle stuff around to get clearance. I have about 2" clearance from the belt there after messing with it for a while.
.
in bold above!
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (9)
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
From: Austin/Dallas, TX
COG Tensioner - I think I have the setup correct. I saw that link before i started the install, but i'll double check later today.
GTM Pulley Mod - I bought it from rockauto.com which came with a bolt and shield. I think it was 8M x 1.5. I have a pic at home that i'll post up for you.
Whine vs. Whistle - haha. Those two mean the same thing to me. But yes, i am refering to the chatter. I know what a bad bearing sounds like since i've already had them replaced =P
Clutch- How stiff is the pedal? Austin has terrible traffic, so i've been leaning towards stage 3. Let me know what you think.
Warm Start- He changed the MAF settings along with the fuel table. I have 600 cc, and it starts up like stock.
Coupler- Really? 2 inches?! I've adjusted this thing a hundred times and can't get it more than 1/2 inch. I'll have to do some more adjusting, I guess.
Thanks for the info, it helps alot!
GTM Pulley Mod - I bought it from rockauto.com which came with a bolt and shield. I think it was 8M x 1.5. I have a pic at home that i'll post up for you.
Whine vs. Whistle - haha. Those two mean the same thing to me. But yes, i am refering to the chatter. I know what a bad bearing sounds like since i've already had them replaced =P
Clutch- How stiff is the pedal? Austin has terrible traffic, so i've been leaning towards stage 3. Let me know what you think.
Warm Start- He changed the MAF settings along with the fuel table. I have 600 cc, and it starts up like stock.
Coupler- Really? 2 inches?! I've adjusted this thing a hundred times and can't get it more than 1/2 inch. I'll have to do some more adjusting, I guess.
Thanks for the info, it helps alot!
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (9)
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
From: Austin/Dallas, TX
Pics of pulley attached. It is definitely 10M x 1.5
Also, looks like I have the tension pulley installed correctly.
Also, looks like I have the tension pulley installed correctly.
Last edited by whoojong; May 11, 2010 at 12:32 PM.
COG Tensioner - I think I have the setup correct. I saw that link before i started the install, but i'll double check later today.
GTM Pulley Mod - I bought it from rockauto.com which came with a bolt and shield. I think it was 8M x 1.5. I have a pic at home that i'll post up for you.
Whine vs. Whistle - haha. Those two mean the same thing to me. But yes, i am refering to the chatter. I know what a bad bearing sounds like since i've already had them replaced =P
Clutch- How stiff is the pedal? Austin has terrible traffic, so i've been leaning towards stage 3. Let me know what you think.
Warm Start- He changed the MAF settings along with the fuel table. I have 600 cc, and it starts up like stock.
Coupler- Really? 2 inches?! I've adjusted this thing a hundred times and can't get it more than 1/2 inch. I'll have to do some more adjusting, I guess.
Thanks for the info, it helps alot!
GTM Pulley Mod - I bought it from rockauto.com which came with a bolt and shield. I think it was 8M x 1.5. I have a pic at home that i'll post up for you.
Whine vs. Whistle - haha. Those two mean the same thing to me. But yes, i am refering to the chatter. I know what a bad bearing sounds like since i've already had them replaced =P
Clutch- How stiff is the pedal? Austin has terrible traffic, so i've been leaning towards stage 3. Let me know what you think.
Warm Start- He changed the MAF settings along with the fuel table. I have 600 cc, and it starts up like stock.
Coupler- Really? 2 inches?! I've adjusted this thing a hundred times and can't get it more than 1/2 inch. I'll have to do some more adjusting, I guess.
Thanks for the info, it helps alot!
if you bump your idle a little the rattling sound will go away at idle.
for the stage for clutch pedal, i truthfully didn't notice a difference in STIFFNESS of pedal. I wo'nt lie and say it drives like stock though, you have to learn to do dead stop starts with it. It engages a lot harder than stock (since there is no slip). Once you get the hang of it then you're ok. Took me maybe a week to get used to. It's twice as easy as my OS giken twin disk and this is on my summer daily driver so relaly not that big of a deal. You can't slip the clutch like you would be able to on a stage 3. I'm not sure what a stage 3 goes for but if you want to be able to slip the clutch and you arne't going to the dragstrip then stage 3 will work fine. If you want a good price on a beast of a clutch then hit me up. I haven't posted it up on the forums due to laziness and it being a "possible" backup in case my twin disk dies. I'm not in a hurry to get rid of my backup but i won't be sad to see it go.
ya, i'm pretty sure i know WHAT he adjusted, just not HOW
. thanks though. rc dash gave me a few ideas to try.and keep working on the tubing. First time i installed my vortech it took me a week of messing with it to get everything settled and correct.
My buddy had a serious warm starts issue on his Vortech w/600cc injectors + Osiris. His engine ended up grenading within 3000 miles, but I'm glad you fixed yours and confirm my suspicion that it was a tuner issue.
Last edited by djamps; Apr 13, 2010 at 07:20 PM.
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (9)
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
From: Austin/Dallas, TX
Vortech = 3400 - 400= $3000
Rebuild Charger = $400
Osirus + Tune + MAF = $1100
Walbro Fuel Pump = $90
DW Injectors = $460
XO2 Exhaust = $200
Crawford HFC = $250
Pulleys = $65
Zeitronics = $300
Autosport wiring harness = $100
Non-SC related items
Cusco Sways = $200
NAVtv2go = 130
Carputer= 300
Underbelly pan = 200
Wow, that's alot of money. Of course, this was spent over time, but there's the breakdown.
Here's a break down. I bought a complete Vortech kit from the forums, then parted some stuff out, so if you see a minus sign, that's me selling some parts from the kit.
Vortech = 3400 - 400= $3000
Rebuild Charger = $400
Osirus + Tune + MAF = $1100
Walbro Fuel Pump = $90
DW Injectors = $460
XO2 Exhaust = $200
Crawford HFC = $250
Pulleys = $65
Zeitronics = $300
Autosport wiring harness = $100
Non-SC related items
Cusco Sways = $200
NAVtv2go = 130
Carputer= 300
Underbelly pan = 200
Wow, that's alot of money. Of course, this was spent over time, but there's the breakdown.
Vortech = 3400 - 400= $3000
Rebuild Charger = $400
Osirus + Tune + MAF = $1100
Walbro Fuel Pump = $90
DW Injectors = $460
XO2 Exhaust = $200
Crawford HFC = $250
Pulleys = $65
Zeitronics = $300
Autosport wiring harness = $100
Non-SC related items
Cusco Sways = $200
NAVtv2go = 130
Carputer= 300
Underbelly pan = 200
Wow, that's alot of money. Of course, this was spent over time, but there's the breakdown.
So someone can buy just the tuner kit, and all they need are:
-Upgraded Fuel Pump
-Larger Injectors
-HPX MAF
-Osiris Tune
No need for FMU, No need for SS Box, No need for piggy back and wire splicing?
Where is the best place to get the MAF? Thanks for the help.
-Upgraded Fuel Pump
-Larger Injectors
-HPX MAF
-Osiris Tune
No need for FMU, No need for SS Box, No need for piggy back and wire splicing?
Where is the best place to get the MAF? Thanks for the help.
^ $224 shipped: http://www.350zmod.com/HPX-MAF-Senso...vq35demmaf.htm
exactly, that's the best route. and you'll need a 2.87 pulley for most performance, GTM pulley mod for no slip, and whatever gauges you want (should be at least a/f gauge). uprev sells them for the same price as everywhere else (224$) so just order from them when you order your osiris. Tuners also should carry them if they tune with osiris.
The kit I'm picking up this weekend has all the extras like 2.87, and GTM pulley, etc.
Just need gauges, so I think Ill sell the SS box, FMU, etc towards gauges.
Thinking Boost, AF, & Oil Pressure are the best ones to get?
Xact Dyno in AZ is certified Uprev tuner, and I have the car tuned by Shawn Church already so the license is on the ECU. Just going to install and have Exact Dyno tune rather than buying the Osiris myself. Appreciate all the help.
Last edited by 6MTG354ME; Apr 20, 2010 at 09:20 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Colombo
Forced Induction
35
Nov 9, 2020 10:27 AM
