New winter new turbo build
I have also discovered a little device that will ensure that the oil in the line to the turbo stays in there. That will remain as a secret though. I know every other remote mount system uses solenoids to close the supply line at the turbo. My solution is much simpler, and practically eliminates the need for an oil reservoir.
This thing cannot fail either, like the solenoid valves do, very simple and I can’t believe I didn’t figure it out sooner.
This thing cannot fail either, like the solenoid valves do, very simple and I can’t believe I didn’t figure it out sooner.
I guess it is time for an update as to my nightmare.
I started getting into the car for the install and found a just absolutely destroyed wiring harness, corrosion, hack job splicing (my fault), no seal on the firewall. This has been the single greatest dilemma, with that being said the lack of seal has allowed a collection of water to drip down onto my beautiful brand new Haltech unit. The car is not in any condition for much of anything. I am frantically pulling the car apart, however my lack of space and tools is making this difficult.
Injected Performance has offered to help with their vast expertise however, they are busier than a two dollar ***** on half price night. My good buddy has a very capable garage and has offered to lend a hand but I am headed back out of town unfortunately and the project is on Hold. I feel bad for the slow process to all the anxious readers.
My Progress,
Removed Front Bumper
Removed 3" Dual Exhaust
Removed Crash Support & FMIC
Removed all IC piping
Removed Haltech Box
Removing No Lift **** Module
preparing car for engine removal
So New Project 1, Order brand new engine harness.
Send Haltech in to Haltech USA and have it inspected.
Replace and wire that is related to CAN system Failure
Replace Battery
On Top of this my buddy had an ingenious idea, What about a compound turbo system, two small turbos feeding one very large one... I digress. This will not happen on this build, but according to the build design of this system that would be too easy to accomplish.
I started getting into the car for the install and found a just absolutely destroyed wiring harness, corrosion, hack job splicing (my fault), no seal on the firewall. This has been the single greatest dilemma, with that being said the lack of seal has allowed a collection of water to drip down onto my beautiful brand new Haltech unit. The car is not in any condition for much of anything. I am frantically pulling the car apart, however my lack of space and tools is making this difficult.
Injected Performance has offered to help with their vast expertise however, they are busier than a two dollar ***** on half price night. My good buddy has a very capable garage and has offered to lend a hand but I am headed back out of town unfortunately and the project is on Hold. I feel bad for the slow process to all the anxious readers.
My Progress,
Removed Front Bumper
Removed 3" Dual Exhaust
Removed Crash Support & FMIC
Removed all IC piping
Removed Haltech Box
Removing No Lift **** Module
preparing car for engine removal
So New Project 1, Order brand new engine harness.
Send Haltech in to Haltech USA and have it inspected.
Replace and wire that is related to CAN system Failure
Replace Battery
On Top of this my buddy had an ingenious idea, What about a compound turbo system, two small turbos feeding one very large one... I digress. This will not happen on this build, but according to the build design of this system that would be too easy to accomplish.
I have also discovered a little device that will ensure that the oil in the line to the turbo stays in there. That will remain as a secret though. I know every other remote mount system uses solenoids to close the supply line at the turbo. My solution is much simpler, and practically eliminates the need for an oil reservoir.
This thing cannot fail either, like the solenoid valves do, very simple and I can’t believe I didn’t figure it out sooner.
This thing cannot fail either, like the solenoid valves do, very simple and I can’t believe I didn’t figure it out sooner.
Registered User
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: SoFla
Please forgive me if I missed this, but it looks like the air filter is underneath the vehicle next to the turbo. This seems like it would present an issue of water getting into the system and your engine gets hydrolocked. Am I way off with this one?
This has been covered about 6 times in this thread.
You would think that, or at least be smart enough when its a downpour to take the damn bus if they spent all their lunch money on a turbo.
