binder

iTrader: (8)

yes, it was quite nice. I haven't decided if i'm going to keep my stock block stock or when i get out of med school go wild on it since it's aready out of the car.

A full long block would have worked fine. I'm using my own a/c compressor and PS pump.

I'm excited to see how the engine runs. Should have all the wiring done tomorrow.

Sasha, you should buy a long block used on here and just start tearing it apart in your garage. You have a long winter ahead of you and that would be sweet to get one in your car for next summer.

BoostedProbe

iTrader: (9)

Yeah it would be nice to get a long block this winter, the thing is though, I just spent about $8000 on a few turbos/intercoolers/w/g/BOV's....ect so I can build a few kits. Could have done a full build for that much and more. Maybe next winter, see how this kit business goes.

binder

iTrader: (8)

Ya, i knew you just dropped a ton of cash on these kits. Sell a few this winter and you'll have plenty for a longblock.

I would say with your skills just snag a used motor for around 500$ and tear it down yourself. You could get the motor easily and then 3500$ to send the block off for a built shortblock.

Blackbird CPV35

iTrader: (19)

for future reference, its much easier removing the harness from the ecu and pulling it through the firewall with the rest of the engine rather than unplugging every single harness. I would suggest doing it this way when putting the motor back in, it save me alot of time

str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

^^ only if you dont have 15 extra sensor wires running thru that same grommet. No way was i goin go pull all my controller/sensor wires out of the dash to pull the harness.

ahh man, did you push on that BPV?

i did that when I 1st got mine and it ruined it bc it forces the valving inproperly. I had to send it back to vortech but luckily they gave me a new one for free. Its says right on the packaging to never manually push in the valve. Hopefully its not more messed up than before.

and you'll need to get that o-ring to seat. otherwise you'll have a constant boost leak. call vortech and see what they say.

thats an interesting rear coolant mod to say the least. the proper parts were only $150 but i guess some volume of coolant back there is better than nothing

looks like you'll be ready to go in no time. very nice

Blackbird CPV35

iTrader: (19)

I had a bunch of wires for my gauges running through the grommet the first time i pulled my motor, so the second time around i drilled a new hole in the fire wall and any misc sensors left over I made harnesses for just after the grommet

binder

iTrader: (8)

i found this out! lol. It had a wiring harness on the motor already from a Z. I have a few sensors hardwired into my harness so i just left it in. I'm going to change those over to some type of connector so i can just remove the harness from the car also if i have to pull the motor again.


ya i did push on it. lol. It came with the oring off so i had to open it manually to install it. My boost progressively builds all the way to revlimit. I'm getting 11.5psi at rev limit so i never thought it was leaking.

The cooling mod is the original cooling mod before people started using the nice pathfinder one. I didn't want to wait for new parts to come in so i'm just going to run it like it is for the time being. Next winter i'll put the good one on.

binder

iTrader: (8)

I have the motor in, harness wired, and oil in the car. My soon-to-be wife wanted to spend the evening with me since i'm working the next 2 days at the hospital so I stopped early today. I also wanted another day to see if i can fix the BPV.

All I can say to nissan is SERIOUSLY? Millions of R&D and the engineers decided THIS is the best way to wire up this car? holy crap this is a rats nest of a wiring harness. I'm so glad that part is done.

I am horrible at pictures. There really isn't much to show since it looks like the same engine in the car as before. Cosmetically it hasn't changed other than it being clean.

binder

iTrader: (8)

fired it up today. It wasn't very happy with the tune so i didn't run it long. Maybe a minute. Tomorrow i'll spend some time on adjusting the tune to get it idling good.

I forgot how much a pain in the butt it is getting all the vortech piping to fit in the car. It took me forever to get everything lined up properly. No new pictures. It looks like a put together car. lol

g-adabout

Nice! DIY FTW!

Cant wait to see the final product...and possibly in person some time neighbor!

binder

iTrader: (8)

that's true, we are pretty close! my soon-to-be brother in law lives up by Lima. I'm sure in the spring i'll be over there visiting him in the car.

ADMAN

iTrader: (9)

Congrats...

g-adabout

if you watch the Ohio G Club forum on G35driver, that is where we post up our meets. This past weekend we met up with parts of the OHio Chapter of the ZROC club and we hope to make it a regular thing to mix and match our clubs! So I do hope that when you are this way you can make it out. Or on the other hand, when I am that way, I will holla!

binder

iTrader: (8)

i appreciate the invite. i'll definitely come to some meets next year. I currently work at the hospital from saturday morning until sunday night so my weekends are gone. I'm moving to st. louis in january for med school but i'll have weekends off. I'll definitely make time to have some fun at some car meets in the spring and summer.


I got the car completely running and drove it to my apt from my house. (ya ya, i have an apt and a house...moved in with the girl and still own my house). So, I never had problems before, but this time i had a serious issue bleeding the cooling system. Once it warmed up i found a leak in the upper rad hose. That sucked and created a huge mess. Replaced it. Then 3 hours later i finally got enough air bled out to start producing heat inside the car. what a pain!

I'm having an issue with idle on the car. It idled like crap when it was warming up and once i had it to operating temperature it wouldn't idle. The whole way home it would die instantly if i pushed the clutch in. I have osiris and i flashed the stock uprev onto the car except i raised the idle to 800rpms. I only have 440cc injectors and i ran them just fine at idle with the stock ecu on my stock motor (with vortech). It would stall sometimes until i got a tune but not like this. So, osiris gurus, what do i need to do in order to keep this thing idling?

str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

so you had this motor checked before you installed it right (leakdown/compression)

Whats your AFR? You are still seeing ~20 inches Hg under vacuum right?

If your idle is 800 rpms, hard to think its a tune issue.

binder

iTrader: (8)

I have a leakdown tester and compression tester. I haven't checked it yet. I wanted to get it in the car and at least fired up. I probably could have done the leakdown with it out of the car but i forgot. oh well, it's not hard with it in the car.

Ok, i drove it around. If i push in the clutch it straight dies. Not even an attempt to idle. I did the ecu and idle relearn procedures and nothing. My afr is bouncing around 14.7 up or down a few. At cruise i'm about 16mmhg.

Odd thing is it fired up and did the high idle perfectly when it was cold. After this last drive i pulled into the drive way and it was actually idling. I used cipher to bump the idle up to 900 and it seems to be idling now but a little rough. Somewhere around 14mmhg at idle. That's based on my gauge. I'll have to see what my logs show. I have both Innovate Logworks logs and cipher logs if anyone is interested.

Also, now that i have it idling when i'm listening to the engine on occassion i hear what seems to be a vac leak "hiss". It's on the passenger side near the evac, my vac lines, and the catch-can. It happens random and a very quick burst then it's gone. I've moved lines around, pulled and pushed on connections and attempted to get something to loosen up and leak continiously so i can find it but nothing. It sounds like the pcv valve but when i jiggle it i can't get it to hiss on command.

I also have an exhaust tick too. I think passenger side header to head gasket. Takening those headers back off is going to suck.

binder

iTrader: (8)

Well i put 2 logs in this zip file. It was the only way i could get it to upload. Once is of me driving around and the other is when i finally got it to idle just over 900 rpms.

Things i noticed on the logs:

idle timing is 15 degrees
~20% engine load while idling at 900rpms
14.7ish afr.


so does that look ok? i was concerned about the 20% engine load but it seemed to be ok. It's not idling perfect but it's pretty much normal. I reved it a few times in the log and it dipped just below 900 but then raised back up to 900. I also shut the car down and it fired right back up without having to use the gas pedal. It hasn't done that since i put my vortech on ever. I was surprised.

Maybe it finally decided to idle?

question: when doing a compression test, can i just disable the fuel pump with cipher and crank like that? also, do i need to unplug all the coils or can i leave the ones i'm not testing still attached?

thanks guys!

Chris@FsP

iTrader: (4)

Timing and afr at idle seem okay.

binder

iTrader: (8)

ok, what about the load? is 20% a normal load at idle? it seems high to me but i never paid attention to it on my stock block. I actually never even logged it now that i went back and checked my old logs.

3hree5ive0ero

iTrader: (95)

The engine load seems to be about right, but this varies depending on various factors.


As for the compression test, make sure your engine has had time to warm up to ensure that the oil has been warmed up. Then make sure the coils are disabled to prevent from them firing and hold your throttle open while you perform the test in each cylinder. At least that's what I was told. Simply disabling the fuel pump won't prevent the coils from firing, I would think, and you should disable all coils.