OP- get off the forums for a while sit down with the shop that you chose and have a discussion about your options.

 

Make sure the aps kit is a ball bearing kit if you end up buying it.

Some of the new APS kits come with cheap *** chinese turbos, and they've been nothing but problems.

 

Brian is right, I'll cosign what he is saying

LOL @ many of the dumb comments in this thread.

 

OP i have to really wonder if you researched that much to be steered away by the bullsh!t comments in this thread.. extensive research would have told you what they are telling you makes no sense what so ever

 

+1 on TT, and you could also go big on HP by building your block after you got used to the 400whp.

APS would be a good choice

 

Well I looked into both, the reason I was diswayed was b/c of the places I looked (for the exception of the FI 101 thread) didn't make comparisons for each build, which is why I posted this thread in the first place, to get other opinions...I agree I prob could have done a lot more, but I tend to weigh the opinion of ppl I work/deal with on a day to day basis (this forum) more than other sources on the intarwebz.

I'll do that first then...

 

Nealoc, you are giving misleading advice as well

hmm lets see, Jeffie's PL single fully spooled by 3000 rpms. And thats on a dyno, it will spool faster on the street! Show my any APS dyno where they spool much better than that, better yet, show one "thats not even in the same ballpark!".


Plus a single turbo is easily installed by anyone. The TT install is MUCH more intensive. And for his goals, a TT is overkill.

Not going to start with teh SC comments, alerady said my piece about taht before

The TN kit is not half assed. The full kits doesnt have a good EMS. for his power goals, a TN kit would be just fine. A properly installed TN kit with a UTEC is as trouble free as anything else.

you are making the common stereotypical assumptions and passing them off as 'advice'

 

I couldn't agree more with everything said here, except for the bolded statement. Its worth paying a few hundred more to get the 3 inch td IMO, that way when you later want more power you don't have to drop out the whole thing and buy a new one.

If I had the $ i'd go 20g greddy kit + haltech + meth + 3inch TD + rebuild. Or SP tt kit.
APS from what I have seen is a good kit, but has little customer service (but I have spent the least time researching APS as the $$ is out of my range).
You should really consider the JWT kits. Either the 530bb (what i would go for on a stock block) or the 750 (on a built block).

 

Having driven a few Supra's that are single with about 600hp and twin turbo Supra's with nearly the same hp, I can say without a doubt twins have better "on/off boost response". There are more than a few big name shops that will use twins for better "on/off boost response". They do give up some of the top end but give a more street car boost build. One of these shops that is quoted (on video) that they use twins for better street response is RIPS. If you don't know what RIPS is then look them up. 7 second rb30 powered 240z, shop is in NZ.

 

My APS twins can hit full boost of 14psi @ 2000rpms....I'd say 1000 rpms is pretty significant, not to mention that dyno isn't even of a GT35R over 10lbs. Show me a GT35R @ 14+lbs spooling anywhere NEAR where my car does.

And dyno dynamic dynos are load based and the load can be modified so you can artifically spool a turbo sooner on a load based dyno.

I doubt his low end curve would look anything like that on a dynojet.

 

I would have to agree to this as well.

 

Where is the boost graph? thats hp and TQ.. i don't see anything about full boost at 3000 RPMS .. and the dyno's intense did doesn't spool at 3000 RPMS

second of all.. TT is not overkill.. why would it be over kill .. its giving good power at all PSI.. and 90% of the FI people on this board agree that you outgrow power in no time.. so why would he want to do it twice? buy the TT kit once and no need to try to sell a used kit.. lose money trying to upgrade..

third off the TN Kit is a half as$ed kit.. there is documented proof on it.. its one of the worst designed kits on the market..

 

heres a 9psi dyno of my car from 3 years ago....completely stock motor

No lag since it's competely linear and the torque holds on longer...much more area under the curve vs the PL GT35R...

 

TY guys for both sets of input, I think I'll go with my original plan and stick with TT...just slightly modify other parts I'll buy.

 

I say go with the TT. There is no way a single turbo will spool as quick as a twin.

Please avoid the Turbonetics. I almost traded my STS kit for one and then did some research on here and changed my mind quickly.

I like my STS kit alot but if I had the money I would go TT in a heartbeat.

 

My head hurts from reading all the FAIL here. OP, sell your car and get something where forum members and agree what is a good course of action rather than 5 people with 3000+ posts (many in FI) giving you conflicting advice

I've had a few drinks and this BS is making my head hurt.

EDIT: left off a zero

edit: spelled ca rrong

 

 

No matter what he does there will always be people on this forum that will disagree.

 

That car will not spool any better on the street, perhaps even worse (not saying it will be worse, but it's possible, since you can turn the load up on a load bearing dyno even higher than you'd see on the street. That is a load bearing dyno). You can tell that is a boost spike there @ 3000rpm. I have direct experience with a GT35R powered 350Z (my good friend James) in addition to my personal T61 fed VQ. I am telling you from first hand experience, there is no comparison down low in the RPM range. None. Furthermore, look at briguymax's APS TT @ 9psi. Below 3000rpm the APS TT setup clearly makes quite a bit more torque. That ST dyno is on its way down to 250ft-lb @ 2000rpm. Briguymax's TT is making 50ft-lb more torque @ 2000rpm than the ST dyno you posted. In addition that, lag is nonexistent with the APS TT and transient response is like that of an NA motor, that is much more than can be said with the ST cars. Going even further, look at the high RPM portion of the dyno. The APS car holds on to the power worlds better too. The APS TT dyno posted is infinitely better both in the low range and the high rpm range than that ST dyno is. I've built, tuned, and raced both TT and ST VQs. Claiming that my experience and knowledge is are "assumptions" is laughable. It's firsthand experience.


Not touching the centrifugal SC comment is probably a very good idea for you. They fare even worse than the STs do. You really don't want to get started on that one.

TN kits are terrible compared to the other FI kits out there, there is no way I'd ever advise anyone to put a TN kit on a car. The kit is so suboptimal it's not even funny. Heck, I didn't even know they made them anymore, sure don't hear about anyone getting them, and there's a reason for that. It's because they suck and need so much stuff changed to make them worth a damn. Read the forums from between 2 and 3 years ago (before you were a member here), there are more threads about turbonetics kit problems than probably all other FI kits combined. Claiming otherwise is comical. Do the research, you haven't been around long enough to have seen all of this, because people stopped buying TN kits right around the time you signed up for this forum (a kit that I and many others recognized to be crap right from the get-go). This is years of experience with turbo VQs talking.


Edit:

Furthermore, Jeffie7's dyno does not seem to be at all representative of PL (nor any other) ST kit dyno. Take for instance this dyno, showing both TN and PL... notice the torque deficiency (still on the same type of load bearing Dyno Dynamics dyno). At 2500rpm the PL kit is down about 75ft-lb, the TN is down about 100lb-ft. At 3000rpm the PL is down 75ft-lb, the TN about 110lb-ft. At 3500 PL down 50ft-lb, TN down 75lb-ft. The more i look at it and research other PL numbers, the more it looks like jeffie7's dyno has the load cranked way up on it which will cause much earlier spool than you'd see on the street. I don't believe that jeffie7's dyno is at all representative of real world ST dynos, and it's still inferior to the TT curve.

 

There are a number of 700+whp cars with the Greddy EVO TT exhaust (2.75in) that is MUCH better sounding and quieter than the 3 inchers out there. From the setups I've seen, I'd say that dual 3in isn't needed until around 800+whp which is well higher than 95% of the community will go.