TN VS PL Dyno proof you decide
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From: louisvile KY
TN VS PL Dyno proof you decide
Mods please do not delete..
I was digging around today and found one of my old dyno sheets. I did not post this up back when I ditched the TN kit for the PL gt35r kit, because I didn't want to leave bad impressions on the Powerlab gt35r kit.
Here is the truth by dyno comparison. The red is TN kit, blue PL kit. Both at 10psi tuned with a haltech same dyno same tuner. Stock block. I did add a 3/8 PL intake spacer while doing the Powerlab install that is the only change. Same exhaust ect..
As you can see the TN kit holds it's ground for a moderate power range. If you don't plan on building your block the TN kit will get the job done. But you gotta love that nice flat TQ curve the gt35 puts out. And a real good tuner. Of course with a built block I would have went with the gt37.
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I was digging around today and found one of my old dyno sheets. I did not post this up back when I ditched the TN kit for the PL gt35r kit, because I didn't want to leave bad impressions on the Powerlab gt35r kit.
Here is the truth by dyno comparison. The red is TN kit, blue PL kit. Both at 10psi tuned with a haltech same dyno same tuner. Stock block. I did add a 3/8 PL intake spacer while doing the Powerlab install that is the only change. Same exhaust ect..
As you can see the TN kit holds it's ground for a moderate power range. If you don't plan on building your block the TN kit will get the job done. But you gotta love that nice flat TQ curve the gt35 puts out. And a real good tuner. Of course with a built block I would have went with the gt37.
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Last edited by frankie945; Nov 20, 2009 at 02:12 PM. Reason: added spacer
It's not all about peak hp. It's about how well the kit is designed and the quality of materials used. How many TN owners have complained of cracked welds? I believe I read somewhere that one guy even had his wastegate fall off the f'ing car on the highway 
I'll take the PL kit any day...better components, better design, and better product support.
I'll take the PL kit any day...better components, better design, and better product support.
Last edited by Chris@FsP; Nov 20, 2009 at 04:37 PM.
PL is a better kit... period.
BUT, when I had the TN kit the car was soooo much fun to drive it was sick. Spin the tires all day in first and at the top of second and just pull in other gears with the pedal on the floor.
People rag on this kit all the time, but if I buy another Z for a DD, I will put a TN kit on the stock block in 2 seconds and still be able to hang with or shame most cars on the road
.
BUT, when I had the TN kit the car was soooo much fun to drive it was sick. Spin the tires all day in first and at the top of second and just pull in other gears with the pedal on the floor.
People rag on this kit all the time, but if I buy another Z for a DD, I will put a TN kit on the stock block in 2 seconds and still be able to hang with or shame most cars on the road
.
the reason the PL Kit is better wasn't because of power... it was because of the sh!tty design of the TN Kit.. you should look up Julian's comparison thread that shows the IAT difference between both kits.. the TN Kit runs alot hotter and gets heat soak faster.. the welds also break easier and the TN Kit is prone to boost spike
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From: louisvile KY
The powerlab is a better design by far. But my point mainly is if you just want a single and keep stock block. The TN kit is still a option. I never had a problem with mine. Burnt AC line big deal.
Driving the powerlab kit had more power and was more manageable. But the TN kit was more fun to drive had more TQ and you could really tell. Over all the Powerlab kit is better. But I hate to say with the TN kit it was funner to drive. I guess I like TQ better then HP. IF I had to do it all over again I would have went with twin kit.
Everyone has there opinion on different FI kits. But most will favor there own kit because that's all they have ever felt. Every kit has it's ups and downs. IT's all in what you want out of your Z or G.
Driving the powerlab kit had more power and was more manageable. But the TN kit was more fun to drive had more TQ and you could really tell. Over all the Powerlab kit is better. But I hate to say with the TN kit it was funner to drive. I guess I like TQ better then HP. IF I had to do it all over again I would have went with twin kit.
Everyone has there opinion on different FI kits. But most will favor there own kit because that's all they have ever felt. Every kit has it's ups and downs. IT's all in what you want out of your Z or G.
ya heat wrap, meth, bigger intercooler will lower your AIT for cheap, burn AC line, again 5$ in heat wrap to fix.
cracked welds? install it better. there were only a few kits of the hundreds sold with cracked welds, and that was becuase they installed with the pipes not fitted straight.
of course the PL is a nicer kit, but on a stock block with the proper install, its perfectly fine
cracked welds? install it better. there were only a few kits of the hundreds sold with cracked welds, and that was becuase they installed with the pipes not fitted straight.
of course the PL is a nicer kit, but on a stock block with the proper install, its perfectly fine
ya heat wrap, meth, bigger intercooler will lower your AIT for cheap, burn AC line, again 5$ in heat wrap to fix.
cracked welds? install it better. there were only a few kits of the hundreds sold with cracked welds, and that was becuase they installed with the pipes not fitted straight.
of course the PL is a nicer kit, but on a stock block with the proper install, its perfectly fine
cracked welds? install it better. there were only a few kits of the hundreds sold with cracked welds, and that was becuase they installed with the pipes not fitted straight.
of course the PL is a nicer kit, but on a stock block with the proper install, its perfectly fine
why wouldnt they replace for free? I'm sure SP/SFR/GTM/IP etc all would replace a pipe if it cracked.
AITs were only an issue on kits being pushed past their intended design (guys tryin to make 450-500 hp) , not on a stock kit
as for the overboosting, i cant remember if that was happening only to people tryin to push the kit past the stock settings.
but i thought TN released a new uppipe with better WG location to deal with that.
regardless, why not bag on the APS tt kit? how many have NOT cracked their manifolds. very few
how easy is it to get new manifolds from APS? Impossible.
at least the TN parts were free replacement and available. good luck with APS!
AITs were only an issue on kits being pushed past their intended design (guys tryin to make 450-500 hp) , not on a stock kit
as for the overboosting, i cant remember if that was happening only to people tryin to push the kit past the stock settings.
but i thought TN released a new uppipe with better WG location to deal with that.
regardless, why not bag on the APS tt kit? how many have NOT cracked their manifolds. very few
how easy is it to get new manifolds from APS? Impossible.
at least the TN parts were free replacement and available. good luck with APS!
Last edited by str8dum1; Nov 21, 2009 at 10:17 AM.
Mods please do not delete..
I was digging around today and found one of my old dyno sheets. I did not post this up back when I ditched the TN kit for the PL gt35r kit, because I didn't want to leave bad impressions on the Powerlab gt35r kit.
Here is the truth by dyno comparison. The red is TN kit, blue PL kit. Both at 10psi tuned with a haltech same dyno same tuner. Stock block. I did add a 3/8 PL intake spacer while doing the Powerlab install that is the only change. Same exhaust ect..
As you can see the TN kit holds it's ground for a moderate power range. If you don't plan on building your block the TN kit will get the job done. But you gotta love that nice flat TQ curve the gt35 puts out. And a real good tuner. Of course with a built block I would have went with the gt37.
[IMG][/IMG]
I was digging around today and found one of my old dyno sheets. I did not post this up back when I ditched the TN kit for the PL gt35r kit, because I didn't want to leave bad impressions on the Powerlab gt35r kit.
Here is the truth by dyno comparison. The red is TN kit, blue PL kit. Both at 10psi tuned with a haltech same dyno same tuner. Stock block. I did add a 3/8 PL intake spacer while doing the Powerlab install that is the only change. Same exhaust ect..
As you can see the TN kit holds it's ground for a moderate power range. If you don't plan on building your block the TN kit will get the job done. But you gotta love that nice flat TQ curve the gt35 puts out. And a real good tuner. Of course with a built block I would have went with the gt37.
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[/IMG]IN ANY CASE
...i bolded one part because i dont believe you got the right facts on the comparison....http://www.injectedblog.com/2009/01/...haltech-tuned/
Originally Posted by InjectedPerformance
The initial dyno tests revealed this was one strong VQ35DE, breaking 440whp as it came to us at 10psi. The 2006 G35 has a Revup VQ35, though the tune had exhaust cam timing disabled. We enabled cam timing, picked up significant midrange power, and fixed the top end loss it had shown on the first dyno pull. At that point, the VQ35DE was outputting over 450whp at 10psi. This car was still running on the stock engine, and needed to stay that way for some time - so the boost was decreased to 8psi, and the tune was softened up. The final outcome was a safe 424whp.
Talking to Greg, this are DD numbers too, no DJ correction.
It looks more like a 6psi PL comparison vs a 9-10 psi TN comparison. I am sure there is something to explain this. Not sure why you ask the mods to to delete either
Last edited by IIQuickSilverII; Nov 21, 2009 at 12:04 PM.
+1
PowerLab setups typically make much more than 400whp at 10PSI (in fact, I have never seen numbers so low for 10PSI), especially when using a standalone EMS like the Haltech or ProEFI instead of a UTEC. From what I have seen on installs at Intense over the last couple years, the PowerLab kit usually takes 3-4PSI less to make the same power as a TN kit.
Therefore, I am also skeptical that the PowerLab dyno in the OP is really at 10PSI with the same correction factor as the previous TN dyno.
PowerLab setups typically make much more than 400whp at 10PSI (in fact, I have never seen numbers so low for 10PSI), especially when using a standalone EMS like the Haltech or ProEFI instead of a UTEC. From what I have seen on installs at Intense over the last couple years, the PowerLab kit usually takes 3-4PSI less to make the same power as a TN kit.
Therefore, I am also skeptical that the PowerLab dyno in the OP is really at 10PSI with the same correction factor as the previous TN dyno.
Last edited by RudeG_v2.0; Nov 21, 2009 at 12:14 PM.
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From: louisvile KY
They are both @ 10psi. It was a nonrev if that matters to you. Used the Haltech EBC on both kits. Only thing added was a 3/8 intake spacer with the PL kit.
On first pull with wastegate spring 8psi, we hit 380. My car just would not break 400 on that damn dyno. We bumped it up to 12psi if I remember right, took out some timing of course and only got a few more horses. So the safe thing to do was to back it back down to 10psi which got 400whp and had consistant pulls on the dyno. I loved the tune, I could beat on it all day and it never got hot or hurt a thing. Sold it as a stock Z.
And there is two different pipping with TN. The revised piping relocated the wastegate to get rid of the boost spike people were getting.
I Asked mods not to delete because most TN treads get locked. And that dyno sheet has no correction.
On first pull with wastegate spring 8psi, we hit 380. My car just would not break 400 on that damn dyno. We bumped it up to 12psi if I remember right, took out some timing of course and only got a few more horses. So the safe thing to do was to back it back down to 10psi which got 400whp and had consistant pulls on the dyno. I loved the tune, I could beat on it all day and it never got hot or hurt a thing. Sold it as a stock Z.
And there is two different pipping with TN. The revised piping relocated the wastegate to get rid of the boost spike people were getting.
I Asked mods not to delete because most TN treads get locked. And that dyno sheet has no correction.
Last edited by frankie945; Nov 21, 2009 at 01:44 PM.
IC, PL comes with 6psi wg spring btw..makes no difference specially its non revup cause thats where it was designed, ovbiously if you making not much power at 12psi something is up, this is really simple its a true gt35r turbo with piping well sized to let it flow and the outcome is predicable. The numbers injected achived of 450whp at 10psi and curve are quite comparable to the results seen in az and in larrys dyno... plus on the 453whp u have a car with same ems, tunner, and the 450 whp is on lower compression
Last edited by IIQuickSilverII; Nov 21, 2009 at 02:53 PM.
PL is a better kit... period.
BUT, when I had the TN kit the car was soooo much fun to drive it was sick. Spin the tires all day in first and at the top of second and just pull in other gears with the pedal on the floor.
People rag on this kit all the time, but if I buy another Z for a DD, I will put a TN kit on the stock block in 2 seconds and still be able to hang with or shame most cars on the road.
BUT, when I had the TN kit the car was soooo much fun to drive it was sick. Spin the tires all day in first and at the top of second and just pull in other gears with the pedal on the floor.
People rag on this kit all the time, but if I buy another Z for a DD, I will put a TN kit on the stock block in 2 seconds and still be able to hang with or shame most cars on the road
.
hah but yeah I know what you mean... quality and potential for the Power Lab kit blows the turbonetics kit away!! 
Plus it looks like the tune for the GT35R had a lot of fuelnadded or timing was pulled to get it to make 400 at 10Ibs.... The power lab flows a lot more CFM than the turbonetics....
Last edited by Blck350z; Nov 21, 2009 at 05:09 PM.
