I've been researching how to brake boost the z lately and i see some people were just pulling the brake light fuse. An alternate way is to disconnect the brake light switch. When you do either of these, it kills tcs/vdc, abs, and your brake lights. Because of this it was useless for the street. I was going to install a switch tonight to toggle the brake switch on and off, but in order to reset it you have to kill the engine and restart to get abs working. I don't want to have a short shut down on a track with no abs doing 130mph. I got to looking at the wiring schematics in the fsm..... if you cut the brake switch wire right before the ecu, everything still works, the ecu just doesnt kill the throttle.

Cut pin 101 at the ecu. It is a blue/orange wire on the rev up, not sure about the color on the old DE, but it is the same pin.

Still have brake lights, abs, vdc, and cruse is unaffected. Now I can brake boost on whenever i want with no headache. Also makes staging at the track much easier! Its a 2 minute job, i recommend it to anyone who is boosted or goes to the track regularly.

Ross

 

so basically no side effects?

 

I believe it left disconnected for extended periods of time there may be negative side effects.

Here is another thread dedicated to this and the disconnection of pin 101.
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...-ftw-11-a.html

PS. I run an on/off switch on pin 101 and have great success.

 

what about the HR?

 

in for slip of said 130mph trap

 

Too much trouble than its worth IMO - for most kits that spool fast and most people on these forums.

I tried a BB module and it made my throttle response go CRAZY at times making the car undriveable.

In for the 130mph trap/timeslip.

 

After a while it disabled my cruise control

 

My cruise control was disabled after a while as well, as well as a code being thrown (from memory).

Alberto - did we ever send you the "update" to prevent the accelerator from going crazy? We never released that module, but we did provide a fix for the limited few who beta tested it for us.

 

Blackbird / Kpierson, do you all use a switch so that normally pin101 is connected?

 

thanks hal for the link. i had searched everywhere and couldnt find any info on it. Does the haltech cut the throttle when the brake is depressed? Im saving up for one at the moment

And for the timeslip, i'll post one up as soon as im back at school with my scanner. My trap right now is 124, and i cant hook at all. quickest time is 11.84. Im running stock wheels and suspension. Im waiting on my surge tank and bosch 044 as well as 3" stainless piping so i can build and exhaust and get some more power out of it. I have the borla td, which is about 2.25" ID..... so it doesnt spool very fast. Also i have 750cc injectors that are running 92% duty making 482whp.. so im needing more fuel. I've got some things up on youtube GreddyVQ35DETT.

 

No problem. The Haltech does not control throttle, so yes - throttle is still cut by stock computer.

With the Haltech patch harness, wire 101 is easily accessible and it is simple to add a switch. This also prevents you from having to cut up your stock harness.

 

do you guys have a diagram showing which pin is 101 on the haltech harness?

 

I've got a KPtechnologies module that limits the brake signal to under 1 second regardless of how long you push the brake down. It allows the ECU to "see" the brake being pushed every so often, but since it limits the pulse to less then 1 second you can still brake boost with it.

We had some issues with different vehicle years / trims when we were testing so we never actually released anything officially.

 

I might try a momentary switch located in the center console that I can just hold down while BB'ing.

Like this

 

It is a patch harness, so it uses the same Nissan ecu connectors male and female.

 

No you didnt

 

I did the pin 101 switch and haven't found any significant side effects. Never thrown a code, gone limp, or anything else when I left the switch on for a few days.

One thing that I would watch out for, is that the traction control relies on braking input at the ECU and is somewhat 'blind' without it, so your VDC might not function completely normal. As such I wouldn't leave p101 disconnected/open for longer than it takes to do your boosting/burnout.

 

I could use this for the drag strip. So what is the general concensious here, is this a shot in the dark at working right and not screwing things up if it's only used when needed or is this going to open a can of worms? What sort of switch are you guys using for this?

 

I just used an on/off switch spst

 

Nothing it does can't be undone - from my personal experiance with it we had different results from different years and different trims. About the best thing you can do is just try it out and see if you have any adverse effects.