Audible Knocking above 3K RPM's
12-22-2009, 04:32 PM
#21
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windage tray could have became loose, due to the fact that it is not heard
at lower RPMs
This is what I suggest you do. Make a mechanics stethoscope, listen to each side of the engine at idle when it is making the noise, and have someone rev the car slowly when your under the hood and listen to where it comes from. Also if you could make another video at idle it would help. I took the bass out of my speakers and it could possibly be an exhaust leak at the manifold. Mine did sound similar to that when i had a blown header gasket. The video inside the car is going to muffle the sound to make a good video diagnoses. I went through 3 aftermarket gaskets until i went to nissan and bought an oem one, learned my lesson.
I haven't had time to look. I'm one of the few that didn't take Holiday vacation, and being in the military, is a little to late to try to take from work.
Also I need to bring the car to the Auto Hobby Shop on base, so I can work on it. Not having a garage FTL. As soon as I find something I'll post something.
I'll also post another video tomorrow during idle.
Last edited by citymunky; 12-22-2009 at 04:40 PM.
12-23-2009, 08:28 AM
#22
Seriously sounds like rod knock man...be careful you don't blow one through your block. If you throw a rod your block or damage the crank, you are going to add thousands to the repair/rebuild bill. If metal is in your oil you are also going to destroy your turbos/sc bearings... 
If I were you I would stop driving it and immediately send your oil out for analysis to make sure your internals are fine..then keep troubleshooting once you've ruled that out.
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/
If I were you I would stop driving it and immediately send your oil out for analysis to make sure your internals are fine..then keep troubleshooting once you've ruled that out.
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/
Last edited by djamps; 12-23-2009 at 08:31 AM.
12-23-2009, 08:40 PM
#23
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Seriously sounds like rod knock man...be careful you don't blow one through your block. If you throw a rod your block or damage the crank, you are going to add thousands to the repair/rebuild bill. If metal is in your oil you are also going to destroy your turbos/sc bearings...
If I were you I would stop driving it and immediately send your oil out for analysis to make sure your internals are fine..then keep troubleshooting once you've ruled that out.
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/
If I were you I would stop driving it and immediately send your oil out for analysis to make sure your internals are fine..then keep troubleshooting once you've ruled that out.
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/
In the meantime I had to pick up a beater car.
12-24-2009, 01:10 PM
#24
01-11-2010, 08:19 AM
#27
Metal hitting metal, but it could well be outside the engine - are the engine mounts secure - is there a lot of engine movement? A vid of the knocking in neutral with the cam aimed at the engine bay might be helpful. Could the exhaust manifolds or downpipes be hitting the chassis when you rev?
Last edited by rcdash; 01-11-2010 at 08:20 AM.
01-11-2010, 05:25 PM
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Metal hitting metal, but it could well be outside the engine - are the engine mounts secure - is there a lot of engine movement? A vid of the knocking in neutral with the cam aimed at the engine bay might be helpful. Could the exhaust manifolds or downpipes be hitting the chassis when you rev?
01-12-2010, 05:13 AM
#31
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Well I have some updates.
I started working on the car yesterday. It was towed from my house to base the day before, which is when I noticed my Yellow-Top was completely DEAD. At the shop I had my battery changed as I did the drain the oil to look for metal particles in the drain pan. I found nothing, but there were some particles on my magnetic drain plug. I also took a sample of oil to send off to Blackstone labs.
After that I added 5 QTs of Shell's 10W-40 dyno oil to the car. I dropped the battery back in and I started the car. With the mechanics stethoscope I tried to pin point where the sound was coming from, but I couldn't tell. I asked one on the Old School muscle car guys to listen and see if he hears anything Nothing. So I rev to about 3000 RPMs, and thats when he said "Rod Knock."
So with the car back on the lift I drain the oil again, and take another sample. I disconnect the turbo return lines from the lower oil pan. I removed all the bolts and pull the oil pan. This is what I found, and it's not good.
I really couldn't see anything else looking up in the oil pan.
So I'm getting ready to drop the Motor and tranny together today. I already drained the coolant, pulled the "K-Bar", my H-Pipe and driveshaft.
I started working on the car yesterday. It was towed from my house to base the day before, which is when I noticed my Yellow-Top was completely DEAD. At the shop I had my battery changed as I did the drain the oil to look for metal particles in the drain pan. I found nothing, but there were some particles on my magnetic drain plug. I also took a sample of oil to send off to Blackstone labs.
After that I added 5 QTs of Shell's 10W-40 dyno oil to the car. I dropped the battery back in and I started the car. With the mechanics stethoscope I tried to pin point where the sound was coming from, but I couldn't tell. I asked one on the Old School muscle car guys to listen and see if he hears anything Nothing. So I rev to about 3000 RPMs, and thats when he said "Rod Knock."
So with the car back on the lift I drain the oil again, and take another sample. I disconnect the turbo return lines from the lower oil pan. I removed all the bolts and pull the oil pan. This is what I found, and it's not good.
I really couldn't see anything else looking up in the oil pan.
So I'm getting ready to drop the Motor and tranny together today. I already drained the coolant, pulled the "K-Bar", my H-Pipe and driveshaft.
01-13-2010, 07:36 AM
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01-15-2010, 07:15 PM
#36
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So after 4 days of work (6 Hrs a day), I have everything broke down. Tomorrow I'm going to wrap and pack everything up.
During the removal of my tubro's I found this.
Both the driver's side and passenger side gaskets between the exhaust manifold and turbochargers where blown. I knew I had a exhaust leak, but I couldn't find it, until now.
During the removal of my tubro's I found this.
Both the driver's side and passenger side gaskets between the exhaust manifold and turbochargers where blown. I knew I had a exhaust leak, but I couldn't find it, until now.
Last edited by citymunky; 01-15-2010 at 07:16 PM.
01-16-2010, 07:47 AM
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AK Miller (old school turbo guy, RIP) used to say "Gaskets are made to blow!". He would have his exhaust guy grind the surfaces flat and bolt it up with no gasket.
My 2000 Dodge Intrepid had rod knock at 98k miles, very common with the 2.7L engine. I Managed to catch it in time before it spun a bearing. A local shop dropped the pan and replaced just the rod bearings (mains looked new) for less than $350 two months ago and it sounds like a new car again.
My 2000 Dodge Intrepid had rod knock at 98k miles, very common with the 2.7L engine. I Managed to catch it in time before it spun a bearing. A local shop dropped the pan and replaced just the rod bearings (mains looked new) for less than $350 two months ago and it sounds like a new car again.
01-16-2010, 07:54 AM
#38
If I had to guess I would say a spun and then consumed main bearing for sure 
, unfortunately I know exactly what it means when the oil pan looks like you are prospecting for gold. Prepare yourself for the worst, that is a complete and total loss of all components in your setup that run oil through them. Sorry to see the bad news.
, unfortunately I know exactly what it means when the oil pan looks like you are prospecting for gold. Prepare yourself for the worst, that is a complete and total loss of all components in your setup that run oil through them. Sorry to see the bad news.
