low-end CAMs on Single turbo application.
EDIT: As I recall the BC stg 2 is very similar to the JWT S2 and more of a mid range cam, but both do ok up top...
Last edited by rcdash; Jan 13, 2010 at 12:42 PM.
You could also try something like the apexi avc-r which has gear dependent as well as rpm dependent boost settings which works great for single turbo cars. It allows you to make the same boost in every gear and in most cases helps you spool quicker.
i've got a similar setup, and have gone through 2 boost controllers that couldn't keep the wastegate closed...i'd all but guarantee you're having wastegate push issues. i even upgraded to a forged actuator which helped for like 1 psi.
i'm having a custom external wastegate made that will be similar to the one aps offered at one point in time, and will most likely be getting the tial 38mm wg.
i'm having a custom external wastegate made that will be similar to the one aps offered at one point in time, and will most likely be getting the tial 38mm wg.
i've got a similar setup, and have gone through 2 boost controllers that couldn't keep the wastegate closed...i'd all but guarantee you're having wastegate push issues. i even upgraded to a forged actuator which helped for like 1 psi.
i'm having a custom external wastegate made that will be similar to the one aps offered at one point in time, and will most likely be getting the tial 38mm wg.
i'm having a custom external wastegate made that will be similar to the one aps offered at one point in time, and will most likely be getting the tial 38mm wg.
I am running also on forged actuator. And evc 5. What boost controllers you have tried ???
And what boost level are u hitting !!!
I still have the original excel spreadsheet that shows the difference in Power from my original GRD setup (stock cams, unichip, 2.5" APS deletes & exhaust, 11psi) to my current Forged setup (BC stg-II cams, FCON, APS 3" delete, EvoTT, 14psi).
I don't think the dyno's I have from forged will help us compare. When I had the cams installed, Sharif also did a lot of other mods to the car (FCON, 3" APS delete pipes, forge actuators, complete tuning, Evott exhaust).
I still have the original excel spreadsheet that shows the difference in Power from my original GRD setup (stock cams, unichip, 2.5" APS deletes & exhaust, 11psi) to my current Forged setup (BC stg-II cams, FCON, APS 3" delete, EvoTT, 14psi).
I still have the original excel spreadsheet that shows the difference in Power from my original GRD setup (stock cams, unichip, 2.5" APS deletes & exhaust, 11psi) to my current Forged setup (BC stg-II cams, FCON, APS 3" delete, EvoTT, 14psi).
Not to knock you too much OP, but are you changing your car around just due to the results of a race Vs. an R35?? It's a much different car than yours and has different performance.
What if you had raced a small displacement big turbo car? 1.6l Honda with a 35r or something to that effect. You pull initially then you get run down bigtime on the top end.... now you have plenty of TQ, but want more top end to beat that pesky Civic?
What if you had raced a small displacement big turbo car? 1.6l Honda with a 35r or something to that effect. You pull initially then you get run down bigtime on the top end.... now you have plenty of TQ, but want more top end to beat that pesky Civic?
^ hopefully you are one the stock block, as 512 DD is pretty weak on a built motor and doesnt take 2 years of tweaking to reach 
**nm, i remember you sayin 500 hp built was your max safety level. carry on

**nm, i remember you sayin 500 hp built was your max safety level. carry on
Thanks ToastZ - i actually looked up your build thread and got the details there. See u again at the airstrip? 
15 psi on APS twins breaking 500 whp on a DD is about right - and perfect for a street car imo. str8dum1, u wait till ur running 700 and then report back!
Always debatable whether running more power is worth the risk of more headaches, built motor or not... After running awhile relatively trouble free you start taking the setup for granted.

15 psi on APS twins breaking 500 whp on a DD is about right - and perfect for a street car imo. str8dum1, u wait till ur running 700 and then report back!
Always debatable whether running more power is worth the risk of more headaches, built motor or not... After running awhile relatively trouble free you start taking the setup for granted.
Last edited by rcdash; Jan 14, 2010 at 08:42 PM.
If boost is tapering downward in the upper rpm's, no boost controller on the planet is likely to help. That is an exhaust flow and/or wastegate issue, plain and simple.
Sharif built the car to my horsepower goals which in fact are not to explore the maximum horsepower 'possible' from my setup on his DD. The motor is built and currently has over 30K trouble free daily driven miles on it and I'm not easy on it either - so my goal has been met.
512 whp on shariffs DD is not weak by any means unless all you're doing is e-posing. Sounds like a more than sensible figure for a reliable car. Sure as hell beats building multiple motors like so many other have who are merely chasing a random #
Last edited by Z1 Performance; Jan 15, 2010 at 05:40 AM.


