Hi guys, just wanted to post my planed build list and see what you guys think and what changes you would all make.
I tried to read up as much as I could over the last few months, so please don't slam me
Well I better start with my goals and go from there, I have a built 5AT, and it is said to hold 600 RWHP maybe a bit more, so that is my goal, maybe with enough left in the tank to push the AT a bit to see how much it can handle
The list:
Block bored to 96mm
Wiseco 96mm 8,8:1 pistons
Eagle H rods
ACL main and rod bearings
ARP L19 headstuds
Cosworth headgasket
Rev-Up oilpump
BC +1mm valves
BC springs and retainers
BC stage 2 cams 264
AAM stage 2 fuel pump
AAM fuel rails and return system
Greddy intercooler
Greddy 18G kit

Probably missed some parts so please help me out with those, also not sure about the BC cams, looked at Tomei as well. And will 264 get me up over 7500 rpms ?? I will mostly drive it on the street, some track but not so much, just for fun now and then so i don't kill myself on the streets

Any relevant input would be appreciated, so that I don't waste a bunch of money again :|

 

looks very similar to my build.

haltech?

 

Well I have a UTEC that I bought before, will it do the job or ?? Have a Haltech as well for another higher HP build that I will do after this.

 

The over-sized valves are a little much.

 

do what????........you have a haltech and don't plan on using it?

 

The work involved in going to larger valves isn't worth it for 600rwhp (any head work is labor intensive).

UTEC will work for that power, but if you plan on going much higher, you prolly want something else. UTEC does have a high-end on what size injectors it can control.

Tom

 

Well I want to use the Haltech on my other build, a sleeved 100mm block, it is for my project car, but if I have to then I'll just sell the UTEC and get another Haltech later. I'm planing on using some 800cc injectors, hope the UTEC can handle that.

So I should keep the standard valves, or get BC standard size valves ?? what about the valve train ??

Any input about the cams ??

Thanks everyone for the inputs so far

 

Reason for the 18G kit? The 20G's in the tuner version will get you to your goal alot easier and it seems your not cheaping out elsewhere, so get a kit that justifies your build. Also it'll all go downhill without a proper EMS, get a proper system like the Haltech as previously mentioned. Good luck

 

Well I guess the reason is that I got a good deal on the 18G, plus it will spool up earlier and I can't sue much more than 600rwhp, but who knows, maybe some day I will have the turbos rebuilt
So about cheaping out, we all want to save money, so with my goals, where would I save money or could save money on this build ?? I guess not getting the +1mm valves will save some plus less machine cost.
How about 272 cams ??
As for the EMS, I think I will try with UTEC first, and if it doesn't work then I use the Haltech, unless you all think I shouldn't use the UTEC

So far I have the following stuff:
Engine
Greedy 18G kit
Greedy IC
AAM stage 2 pump and return system, also have the oilpan spacer and plenum spacer
UTEC and Haltech
Built 5AT with GTM oilcooler
AMS rad

Prob have more stuff out there that I don't remember, but that is about it

Please fell free to comment, will try to get everything for the bottom end soon.

Thanks Micael

 

i will tell ya 800cc injectors is pushing the Utec to max and maybe beyond............I am running 750cc with a Utec and i'm trying to get away from it and move to a Haltech.........i find that the my A/F at the begining of a run take a nasty dive to the rich side and the lean back out to 11.7 at the end of a pull and i have have had countless hrs on the dyno trying to get the Utec to fix it but the injectors were to big and i could not get it out.........plus the idling issues and all the carbon out of the exhaust because the utec can't scale down the injectors @ idle.................trust me dude go with Haltech

 

split second box ftw!

 

So I guess I have 2 choices then, smaller injectors with UTEC, which I'm not sure if they will take me to over 600rwhp or not, what injectors are needed for that.
Or go with the Haltech and get one more later on and sell the UTEC.
If I want to save some money for other things is getting smaller injectors a good way, or just waste of time ??

Thanks Micael

 

Thats my same short block, 96mm 8.8:1 wisecos, eagle hbeams, acl's. only difference is that my heads are completely stock and I have hr head gasket with hr head bolts. I am happy with my build and I dont see the need of doing that headwork for 600hp.

 

You could save some money by going with a HR head gasket rather than a Cosworth, just need the water jacket machined when you get the block done.

If you are set on head work you could keep the stock valves and just get a real stoudt double spring and retainers (Ferrea titianium) and have the valves blened by Headgames. My result was basically letting my DE head flow like a HR head.

As far as cams go, I would pay some $$$ to consult with someone like Sharif or Hal or SP, GTM that can read the compressor map on your turbo and match the cams to the map to make the best and smothest power. Iam only now learning how important that compressor map is when choosing all the other build components.

 

Reading and understanding the turbo tech 101, 102 & 103 will go a long way towards helping you understand compressor sizing if you feel like taking it to the next level of understanding:

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...ch_center.html

I'm involved in a similar project as you and here are the numbers I am using to help size the turbo. Some of the numbers are conservative guesses - the rest of the numbers come from the Garrett site:

VQ35DE non Rev-up
Engine displacement = 3.5 L = 213.57 cubic inches
Maximum RPM = 7000
Air to Fuel (A/F) ratio = 11.5
Brake Specific fuel consumption (BSFC) = .62
Engine Volumetric efficiency (stock) = .92

Using these numbers (adjusted for your application) should help you visualize where your goals fall on compressor maps for both 18g and 20g (and above) so you can see where you need to be looking.

Of course this has all been done before and proven with similar builds, but this is a great place to start because of the theory and understanding it can provide.

I dropped the formulas into an excel spreadsheet and now just change the variables based on parts & goals to see what the impact is. Pair these formulas with compressor maps and it'll put you into the right range for your build. Numbers don't lie!

 

So will the HR head gasket hold up to or over 600rwhp ?? and how about the HR head bolts ??
Well I'm pretty set on getting some head work done, at least cleaning up a bit, I have been offered a pretty good deal on it so not a lot of money, and the guy will do some work on my crank as well.

CASS007: so you recommend Ferrea over BC ?? is that both for springs and retainers ?? and I will prob check in with GTM about the cams or maybe Hal

jumbosrule: thanks for the info, I will put in my numbers and see what i will get

Streetzlegend: so what numbers do you have with your setup ??

Thanks again everyone, looks like I'm saving a bit of money here, maybe I have to use it for another Haltech, or save it for my other build

 

Oversize valves are a waste of money IMO

BC or STOCK cams can rev to 7500rpm's, neither will peak there with the manifolds/spacers and turbo kits most of us run.

BC wont drop as drastically as stock or mild cams like JWT S1's up top but they will drop off before 7500rpm's.

Greddy kit 18G will not peak at 7500rpm's you would be lucky to peak around 7000rpm's maybe slightly less, just know that going in.

600whp thru the auto on a Greddy kit IMO will likely require meth or race gas, and even then why would you want to run your transmission to the max?

Im not crazy about the Cosworth HG, IMO there are better choices.

UTEC is meh and shouldnt be used outside stock block IMO.

 

Ok, so stock Valves it is
UTEC out, I guess I better sell it off
Cams I'll check a bit more on, maybe stock will do it
So I should look in to upgrading the Greddy's to 20G's ?? And yes I was planing on adding a Meth kit. How much more lag would it be with the 20G and I hope I can use the piping and manifolds I have from the 18G kit ??
Well I guess it is not so smart to run the AT to max, but no one seems to know how much it can hold, 600, 650, 700 ?? so I just want as much as I can get from it and the dial it down a bit.
So not Cosworth then, but will the HR HG hold, or I have to spend the money for a HKS ???

Thanks again

 

The HR gasket is great, now with stock bolts I woudlnt go higher than 550whp, at least that what I have set my maximum HP goal to be, just to be safe. I think someone had head lift in the 600whp range on stock HR bolts. Now if you go with HR gasket and L19 Head Studs, then who knows what the limit will be, might be up in the 800-900HP, Shakeeb si running 9's and probably around 700HP on HR gasket and L19 https://my350z.com/forum/8042349-post1.html.

I personally recommend the HR gasket, specially for the cooling mod, I have not had a single heating problem even with stock radiator and in Miami hot weather. For my current HP, I have not put my car on a Dyno since I street tune it, I guesstimate around 400-425whp.

 

The HR gasket is fine, but the HR head studs have to go. Jkenefic figured out that their fail point was somewhere close to 600whp. The L19s are proven to hold power.

Have you ridden in a 600+whp Z or G? Trust me, the only way you will miss a 20G kit compared to an 18G kit is if the guy next to you haue more HP and traction than you do. The chances of that happening are rare and there is ALWAYS someone faster.

My understanding is that the Cosworth gaskets are thicker than the others and is the go-to gasket if there has been head lift or machining irregularities. The HR gasket is comparatively cheap and has proven to work just fine.