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My HKS S/C Installation

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Old May 18, 2010 | 06:09 AM
  #281  
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Hey Mike, i was reading the manual from wiki '06 model and it shows the canister. It's night here so i'l check my car in the morning. But there is a one way check valve supplied in the kit and the HKS instructions are showing fitment in the line that looks like the EVAP canister purge volume control solenoid valve. Some guys have it installed some don't!!!!
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Old May 18, 2010 | 03:30 PM
  #282  
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I doubled checked today. I do indeed have a check valve installed in that location.
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Old May 18, 2010 | 04:20 PM
  #283  
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Originally Posted by jonnylaw
I doubled checked today. I do indeed have a check valve installed in that location.
Thanks for checking Jonny!!! Seems like its good to have it installed!!

The people that don;t have it, might want to look into it?
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Old May 19, 2010 | 04:53 AM
  #284  
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FYI: I checked the US and AU manuals. Looks like they both have the rear evap canister but the AU models are smaller and hence why we did not have the same issues when fitting aftermarket exhausts.
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Old May 19, 2010 | 05:45 AM
  #285  
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COOL!!! All bases covered!

Thanks for checking that for me mate!
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Old May 19, 2010 | 08:39 PM
  #286  
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For those thaat received/installed the kit, do you recall if the filter element supplied by HKS is a dry type or a wet type (oiled)?

The dry type is a 3 layer and the wet type is a 2 layer. It is a 150mm size.
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Old May 19, 2010 | 10:36 PM
  #287  
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gotta check this! something to do in my free time
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Old May 20, 2010 | 12:30 AM
  #288  
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Mine came with green dome shaped filter. 2 layers of different density foam. I can't work out how to upload (imac!!!!!) photo.
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Old May 20, 2010 | 02:52 AM
  #289  
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Originally Posted by jonnylaw
For those thaat received/installed the kit, do you recall if the filter element supplied by HKS is a dry type or a wet type (oiled)?

The dry type is a 3 layer and the wet type is a 2 layer. It is a 150mm size.
It's the dry type.
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Old May 20, 2010 | 02:57 AM
  #290  
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UPDATE!

Assistance Needed!!!

My car is with my tuner, it's been there for 4 days now.

I am running a Greddy Emanage Ultimate as the ECU and the problem is that it will rev cut/fuel cut at 5000rpms, we cannot go above this for some reason!

We have checked the boost limit cut setting voltage and it is at 5volts, we don't know what else could be the issue???

Does anyone have any clues? ideas? or experience in this?

It's making 335HP up until 5000rpms, so it's strong.

PLEASE HELP.
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Old May 20, 2010 | 04:12 AM
  #291  
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Originally Posted by jonnylaw
For those thaat received/installed the kit, do you recall if the filter element supplied by HKS is a dry type or a wet type (oiled)?

The dry type is a 3 layer and the wet type is a 2 layer. It is a 150mm size.
Its a dry filter

I've just got rid of my green filter for a purple one
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Old May 20, 2010 | 09:31 AM
  #292  
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Hmm.If it's a 2 layer, then it's a "wet" type". All available colors besides green are a "wet type" according to HKSUSA:

http://hksusa.com/products/?id=787

When I replaced the filter element, I opted for a 3 layer dry type. I was told it really wouldn't make much of a difference per HKSUSA. Since the filter on the G's kit sits towards the ground as a CAI location, I wasn't sure which was best.

I did have an issue after getting teh car detailed 2 days ago. The engine was noisy and the car was sputtering. The cel was flashing, indicating misfire and there was "pop"/backfire coming from the exhaust if I tried to accelerate hard. By the time I made it to the shop, everything was running smooth again--no misifre, no noise. We are assuming that what happened was due to water gettinng on the filter or on the maf or the like.

I'm wondering if either the wet type or the dry type filter element would be better at repelling any splashes of water?
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Old May 20, 2010 | 10:52 AM
  #293  
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Originally Posted by _ink
UPDATE!

Assistance Needed!!!

My car is with my tuner, it's been there for 4 days now.

I am running a Greddy Emanage Ultimate as the ECU and the problem is that it will rev cut/fuel cut at 5000rpms, we cannot go above this for some reason!

We have checked the boost limit cut setting voltage and it is at 5volts, we don't know what else could be the issue???

Does anyone have any clues? ideas? or experience in this?

It's making 335HP up until 5000rpms, so it's strong.

PLEASE HELP.
Bring the MAF clamping to 4.7 volt and try it. You should also log you maf voltage to confirm this.

Sam

Last edited by Sam@GTM; May 20, 2010 at 10:53 AM.
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Old May 20, 2010 | 07:39 PM
  #294  
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Thanks Guys!!!!!

Problem solved!!!

A "dummy" map was made for the stock MAF, while they tuned off the Greddy MAP (using PSI)!!!

Also, thanks for that info athenG!!! That was awesome and was exactly what they did!

Last edited by _ink; May 20, 2010 at 07:43 PM.
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Old May 23, 2010 | 01:10 PM
  #295  
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Has anyone else had a constant problem with the horn since installing the kit?

If I remove the horns off the car - they work
Refit them to the bracket - they work
refit the bracket to the car - they work
Oil cooler, oil tank fitted back on - they work
Fit bolt into horn bracket to IC - fuse blows

Remove the bolt, leave the IC loose & away from bracket, replace fuse - it blows
remove oil cooler from bracket & connect IC - it works
Reconnect oil cooler - it blows
remove both again - it blows

I've been through a box of fuses this afternoon trying to get my horn working again & have failed.

I thought I had traced it to the bolt for the IC but was proved wrong, then I thought it might be the oil cooler but again proved wrong. All bolts have got washers fitted to them (I've tried washers that come with the kit, nylon washers & rubber washers), the horns are connected fine aswell.

I'm at a loss now where to look next
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Old May 23, 2010 | 03:54 PM
  #296  
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Sounds like a grounding issue, but where is the question??
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Old May 24, 2010 | 05:11 AM
  #297  
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Originally Posted by IanP
Has anyone else had a constant problem with the horn since installing the kit?

If I remove the horns off the car - they work
Refit them to the bracket - they work
refit the bracket to the car - they work
Oil cooler, oil tank fitted back on - they work
Fit bolt into horn bracket to IC - fuse blows

Remove the bolt, leave the IC loose & away from bracket, replace fuse - it blows
remove oil cooler from bracket & connect IC - it works
Reconnect oil cooler - it blows
remove both again - it blows

I've been through a box of fuses this afternoon trying to get my horn working again & have failed.

I thought I had traced it to the bolt for the IC but was proved wrong, then I thought it might be the oil cooler but again proved wrong. All bolts have got washers fitted to them (I've tried washers that come with the kit, nylon washers & rubber washers), the horns are connected fine aswell.

I'm at a loss now where to look next

Hahaha, he said "it blows"
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Old May 28, 2010 | 04:40 PM
  #298  
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Having browsed the thread yet again, got a Q on Cosworth plenum and DW 600 injectors. Any clearance issues with that combo? I know at least 1 or 2 of you are running cossies.
Thanks.
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Old May 28, 2010 | 04:45 PM
  #299  
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Originally Posted by pez1111
Having browsed the thread yet again, got a Q on Cosworth plenum and DW 600 injectors. Any clearance issues with that combo? I know at least 1 or 2 of you are running cossies.
Thanks.
I think jonnylaw is running that setup
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Old May 29, 2010 | 05:52 AM
  #300  
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Originally Posted by pez1111
Having browsed the thread yet again, got a Q on Cosworth plenum and DW 600 injectors. Any clearance issues with that combo? I know at least 1 or 2 of you are running cossies.
Thanks.
No clearence issues with mine

Originally Posted by ITOzann
What fuel pressure are you guys running..?
40 PSI
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