Are any of you gentlemen running headers with your S/C? I'm thinking they will help the top end more than the bottom to mid range. Does the oem manifold flow well!!!

 

Running DC headers on mine

 

I use Nismo Headers (jet-hot coated). I run a Cosworth manifold, but I'm fairly sure a oem manifold with a spacer with flow well for a HKS SC application.

 

Headers will be of great benefit for SC applications Pez!

As you know, i am running the Tomei V2's. Since you are rev up though, look into SGM longtube headers.

They are expensive (approx $2k USD) but yield the most gains for REVUP models.

 

Stock cooling system here. No problems whatsoever.

 

Thanks guys for your responses, and it just arrived!!! Thanks Robert and Paul at MVP. So a few more bits and pieces and the install will begin.
I'l do a thorough listing soon. My zed is a rev-up.

Again thanks guys.

 

Did you purchase a "non-revup" kit for your revup?

 

Yep. HKS part number #12001-BN001 HKS GT SUPERCHARGER COMPLETE KIT 2003-2005 NISSAN 350Z. So the fuel management will be redundant as will the 2 additional injectors that fit inside the plenum. DW's 600's and Cosworth Plenum coming.
I don't know if this has been written elsewhere but on the instructions there is a listing for #12001-BN004 - HKS GT SUPERCHARGER PRO KIT 2003-2006. I checked at hksusa, no listing.

 

Ok, so after a good deal of searching/research, all "off-the-shelf" dampened crank pulleys (ATI,Fluidampr) for the VQ are slightly OD (6.610", 6.12"). The only one I found that is stated to be of stock diameter size are Ross Metal Jacket (made out of AU)--as mentioned in this thread.

These are more expensive than the ATI or the Fluidampr (~$550 shipped), and have not heard of one being installed on a VQ35:

http://rossperformanceparts.com/meta...balancers.html

I was willing to try it out, although none are available presently, and won't be for another month or so. I have dyno time scheduled for the end of May.

The problem with OD damper pulleys on a SC setup, is the potential for overspinning the blower and/or throwing it out of its efficiency range.

So is the OEM crank pulley safe on a SC setup on stock block, given the extra load/strain being placed on the crank/bearings due to the SC? Is a dampened pulley really only needed/recommended for a built engine?

If I can't get the Ross unit in time for my tune, my options are either to:

1. Replace the GTM 85mm SC pulley for the HKS 95mm SC pulley and leave the OD ATI crank damper on--this would make the impeller speed 116,838 rpm at 7k.

2. Replace the OD ATI damper with a new OEM crank pulley and leave the GTM 85mm SC pulley on. This would make the impeller speed 113,506 rpm at 7k.

3. Replace the OD ATI damper with a slightly less OD Fluidamper, and replace the GTM 85mm SC pulley for the HKS 95mm SC pulley. This would make the impeller speed 108,265 at 7k rpms.

I was leaning towards option 1, but was concerned over using the OEM pulley with a 400/400 SC setup.. But others are putting down more power with SC and are using the OEM pulley without issue?

I'd like to prolong stock engine life, but if an aftermarket dampened crank pulley isnt really necessary for 400/400 SC, I'd keep the extra few hundered in just using the OEM pulley.

My concern with option 2 is that I am still overspinning the blower by ~6800 rpms at 7k, although this is better than ~20,000 over max limit with current ATI crank pulley and HKS 85mm SC pulley, and I would have a dampened pulley on the crank.

Also, I'm not sure what would effect my boost/power curve more--changing the SC pulley or the crank pulley? Could changing the SC pulley back to larger size negatively effect power more than the crank pulley, since it is closer to the blower?

Option 3 would keep a dampened crank pulley (Fluidampr), but with the larger SC pulley. This keeps the SC impeller speed well within the max limits, but may not be agressive enough and I may lose more power than I want?

thoughts/suggestions?

 

^ I did not get into deep discussion with my tuner after we were done with my car @ 10psi(fabricated pulley), he stated " Do not change the crank pulley, it will overworked the blower and it will affect longevity of your internals". At 10 psi, he estimated that after one year, engine failure most likely will happen.

All this information is not accurate at 100%, but I'm not daring to try lol.. I trust his word

 

So your tuner told you that your engine is likely to fail after one year @10 psi on his tune @10psi (GTM stage 5 kit) with proper supporting mods and good tune, you should be around or below 400/400, depending on whether m/t or a/t. Those power levels have been shown to be "relatively" safe on stock internals for more than a year, depending on safeguards, tune, and bunch of other factors including driving habits and luck. Or did your tuner say that anything above what you have would likely cause engine failure?

I am definetly either swapping out the crank pulley or the SC pulley to get impeller speed (and boost down), to get the blower back in its efficiency range. However, I'm not sure which option would be better in terms of maintaining power and safety.

A knowledgeable forum member recommended swapping out the SC pulley and leaving the ATI crank pulley on because it would be an easier install and since the crank has a lot more belt wrap, I could cut down on slip and even run less belt tension (which is best for the alt/ water pump bearings). This would also leave a dampened crank pulley on (which would do a better job at absorbing damaging crank torsional vibrations than the stock pulley--although, many are of the opinion that the oem crank pulley is sufficient for my application in terms of safety).

If changing the SC pulley, it will start to be over stated limit @ 6600 rpm (110,161)
@ 6700 rpm (111,831)
@ 6800 rpm (113,500)
@ 6900 rpm (115,169)
@ 7000 rpm (116,838)

If changing crank pulley it will start to be over stated limit @ 6800 rpm (110,263)
@ 6900 rpm (111,884)
@ 7000 rpm (113,506)

I know I need to do one of the above, I am just deciding which. Sam@GTM agreed I am overspinning the blower with current setup, and recommened changing either the SC pulley or the crank pulley, but I still have to ask him which would be better for maintaining power while getting the impeller speed down..

 

well.. your application might be different. I have in mind tracking the car this full year, and my tuner had that in mind at the moment he made the comments. IMO 10psi would not last long if tracked and abused; even with the right supporting mods.

I dyno'ed the car not so long ago and i got ~346whp on a dynojet. It might be ~380whp on a dynopack just to compare to your car.(stock cats and stock headers).

If you still want to keep your power levels or add more whp. Just change your crank pulley and do w/m injection

BTW, I remember reading somewhere an issue you had.. an oil leak or something like that. What was the case of the issue?

 

^^It was either SC traction oil, due to overfilling, or blow-by. A new pcv was put in and my catch can routing changed slighly. I have not noticed any oil leak/seap/blow by since.

So are you running 10 psi on your current setup?

With loose belts/leaking Cos plenum, I was about ~395whp/400 lbs.trq on a dynojet (it was ~400whp/415 lbs.trq on the dynapack). Power went up on the dynapack to ~410whp/425 lbs.trq after belt issue was taken care of. So I assume this would be ~400whp/410 lbs. trq on the dynojet. This was at ~12psi. Coworth plenum/Nismo Headers, PE HFC's, Amuse exhaust as breathing mods btw. I have uprev reflash/fcon vpro/and AFK for knock protection.

Either way, I am going to either change the SC pulley or the crank pulley. I am just looking for suggestions on which to do..

 

I'm running 6psi for now(10psi ocasionally when I'll go cruise with my friends, they got isf's and **** like that lol). Better be safe than sorry man. I don't want to brake things neither get into complicated issues. the 400whp numbers was at 12psi for sure since the max I've seen on an hks s/c was ~360whp or something like that @10psi or the stroker vq that marble had at 400whp or something like that.

If I were you I'd run stock crank pulley and meth injection @ 10psi. I think that will maintain the power and add safety =) Gluck with whatever you decide and keep us posted

 

Hey guys have a look at this site: http://www.atomicperformanceproducts...balancers.html
These guys have developed Aussie Ford 6 cylinder engines with reliability up to 800rwkw and they know a thing or 2 about the crankshaft torsional vibrations.
Hope this helps with your decision making.

 

WOO HOOOOOOO!!!!

My HKS kit has arrived and installation will start this weekend and then tuned on Monday!!!!

I have a question for you people who went with the DIY install though!

I will be assembling the kit myself, however my tuner will be installing the DW 600 injectors and fuel pump.

My question is, am I able to drive the car to my tuner (approx 20 mins away) and which belt do i disconnect??

Is this possible?

Any pics that you can reference me to would be greatly appreciated!

 

awesome.. congrats

 

Congratulations on your kit. Did you get the normal kit or a modified one from GTM?
That will not be an issue at all on the that drive. Just don't install the Supercharger belt. The car will be just like stock.

My best tip I can give you:
https://my350z.com/forum/8301122-post99.html
Trim some of the plastic from the radiator cover. It will make install of the Supercharger drive pulley so much easier.
Also just review this thread. Lots of great information in here and great people willing to help you out.

C

 

Its just the normal kit. Thanks for your suggestion, i will definately be trimming that shroud.

Are you talking about the belt that is pictured here on top of the trimmed part?

 

Question for those of you with the GTM kit,

Did you change to the smaller pulley yourself or did your tuner do it?

I've just had a call from my tuner saying that I would have to send my S/C to HKS japan as they are the only ones that can do it