Ross's Twin Turbo build ::PIC HEAVY::
#27
the return goes to the surge tank. I modified mine basically the same way rmedicx did. I'll go ahead and outline the whole setup for anyone who is interested
-6an feed from walbro to surge tank
-10an from surge tank to bosch 044
-8an bosch to fuel filter to Y adapter (single 8 to dual 6) to fuel rails
-6an to FPR, -6an FPR to Surge tank.
-6an overflow to the -4an 90* into the walbro pump assembly
All are SS braided except the 6an return is hardline.
I ordered a check valve to go after the 044, should be in tomorrow. The system isn't holding pressure when the pump is off, making it a *$&#^ to start.
Ross
#28
CJ Motorsports
iTrader: (21)
perfect... thats how i always recommend people use that surge can. BTW cant recall if the 044 has a check valve, but i bet the regulator is your pressure leak. how long does it take for pressure to go to zero after pump is off? I think a pump without a check valve would be rather instant (could be wrong on that), and most aftermarket regulators will slowly seep down.
#29
Here are some random pictures of the car. It's basically factory on the exterior. Since these pictures I grabbed an acura rdx antenna, looks much better I need wheels and tires though, no traction
SR20DET 260z and fuel injected 496 big block chevy in the background. 11's club?
only difference to date is black windshield washer fluid cap
zinc plated x drilled, slotted ebay rotors. My stockers were warped, and these are temporary. They have worked fine and look better though so no complaints. They are centric blanks.
this is at the track. Those are some borrowed MT et streets, same size as my chinese street tires. But they were dry rotted, i ran better times on my street tires. Ran 11.84@122mph that night.
Audio
my old audiobahn aw1206t's next to my RE SE10D4's for the Z.
my finished amp/cap rack
custom box i built. It's sealed, not much air space, but sounds pretty good. When i go to the track, it slides right out. Only slide 2 locks and pull out banana plugs.
Ross
SR20DET 260z and fuel injected 496 big block chevy in the background. 11's club?
only difference to date is black windshield washer fluid cap
zinc plated x drilled, slotted ebay rotors. My stockers were warped, and these are temporary. They have worked fine and look better though so no complaints. They are centric blanks.
this is at the track. Those are some borrowed MT et streets, same size as my chinese street tires. But they were dry rotted, i ran better times on my street tires. Ran 11.84@122mph that night.
Audio
my old audiobahn aw1206t's next to my RE SE10D4's for the Z.
my finished amp/cap rack
custom box i built. It's sealed, not much air space, but sounds pretty good. When i go to the track, it slides right out. Only slide 2 locks and pull out banana plugs.
Ross
Last edited by ashtrojan2008; 04-08-2010 at 06:18 PM.
#30
perfect... thats how i always recommend people use that surge can. BTW cant recall if the 044 has a check valve, but i bet the regulator is your pressure leak. how long does it take for pressure to go to zero after pump is off? I think a pump without a check valve would be rather instant (could be wrong on that), and most aftermarket regulators will slowly seep down.
Also, what ait's are normal under boost? I can't seem to find an answer, maybe you could help me.
Ross
#34
New Member
iTrader: (18)
Congrats on your build - must be great to see your efforts culminate in a great run at the track. Normal AITs are usually about 15-20 degrees over ambient on most street kits. With some water injection, it's 15-20 degrees under. Have you gotten it properly tuned and dyno'd yet? I figure probably so since you ran it at the track - would love to see the chart.
Last edited by rcdash; 04-09-2010 at 06:22 AM.
#36
Thanks everyone for the comments. everything is really starting to feel like it has payed off
Thanks man. I haven't had it on the dyno since I installed the haltech, which was in January. I have been street tuning the haltech for fuel, here and there on the weekends when i get time, and i'll get on the dyno and tune timing soon. That was where my ait question came in.. on a log the other day I noticed 160 degrees at 7k rpm and 14 psi. It was 80-90 degrees outside, but my air filters are under the hood in the regular greddy location and coolant temps were getting a little hot, thus why i just ordered a radiator. I'll be setting up wm injection before i hit the dyno, to make sure i get over the 600 whp mark
That time slip was on the utec, when i had my borla and single walbro. We maxed out the pump at 460 whp on a dyno dynamics (14psi). the 750cc injectors were in the mid 90's duty cycle, So i did the bosch 044 route to make sure i had enough fuel.
ross
Congrats on your build - must be great to see your efforts culminate in a great run at the track. Normal AITs are usually about 15-20 degrees over ambient on most street kits. With some water injection, it's 15-20 degrees under. Have you gotten it properly tuned and dyno'd yet? I figure probably so since you ran it at the track - would love to see the chart.
That time slip was on the utec, when i had my borla and single walbro. We maxed out the pump at 460 whp on a dyno dynamics (14psi). the 750cc injectors were in the mid 90's duty cycle, So i did the bosch 044 route to make sure i had enough fuel.
ross