Well maybe not 2030. This is what I have in my possession as of right now:

2004 G35 6MT with these Bolt-Ons (engine wise):
-Borla exhaust w/ H-pipe
-Berk Technology Metallic Substrate HFC's
-JWT Clutch & Flywheel
-4.083 Nissan Gears w/ Amsoil Severe Gear 75W-90
-Unorthodox Racing Stock Size crankshaft pulley w/ Gatorback Belts
-Unorthodx Racing Aluminum Alternator pulley
-Stillen Engine Damper
-SPL Front & Rear Solid Aluminum Differential Bushings
-Full aluminum Mishimoto dual core radiator
-2 12" Blackworks Slim Fans
-Ven Air 4 Piece Hose Kit in Black
-Osiris tune
-Top Secret Front Bumper (So will have room for intercooler)

In My Garage currently:
-Vortech Version 2 Complete Kit Polished w/ 10k miles on it & stock 3.33 pulley on it now
I purchased the kit used and never saw it running. Seems ok, but for peace of mind I have already shipped to Vortech for a rebuild.
-550CC RC Injectors with clips Brand New
-Walbro Fuel Pump Brand New
-2.87 Pulley New
-Triple Gauge Pod brand new
-New Ground Wire Kit
-GTM Tensioner pulley kit brand new
-JWT Oil Pan Spacer brand new
-NGK Iridium 1 step colder plugs
-Catch Can


Going to buy (Appreciate Feedback on these before I buy):
-After extensive research on gauges, I think I decided on the STRi SLM II Smoke Lens Boost & Oil Pressure Gauges. Not as sick as the DEFI, but lots of great reviews on quality and accuracy for the price.
-AEM Uego Wideband (Lots of people for innovative, lots for AEM for the ease of install. Using it to keep eye on things, not for data logging)
-HPX MAF Sensor
-Oil Cooler (Dan @ Assualtech is putting one together I'm hoping to buy)


The Plan:
Going to sell the SS Box & Harness adapter, The FMU & Inline fuel pump.
Will basically have the tuner kit, will add in HPX MAF, and tune with Osiris. Sell the Ground Wire Kit (Do they even do anything besides get in the way) XactDyno in AZ is certified UpRev tuner. I already have the license on the ECU, and Tim has lots of experience. My Goal is about 400HP as I'm on stock block with about 75k on the car.

Is there anything I missed? Should I be putting the stock crank pulley back on? Thanks for all the help!

 

Pretty much exactly the setup I have, except I have DW 600cc Injectors and Zeitronix Wideband.

I recommend the Zeitronix, it has built in RPM logging which is really convenient. Catch can is a catch can. I got one off ebay for 20 bucks, worrks great. Don't forget some version of the GTM pulley mod. Other than that, you're good to go.

 

Keep the 2.87

 

With the weak rods of the DE motor, don't you think I will be pushing the limits with the 2.87?


Thanks for the info. I have a black catch can from eBay that came with it. But heard stories of the Weapon R collapsing, etc. Not sure if the eBay one would have similar problems. It's only $22 shipped. (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BLACK...Q5fAccessories)

I already have the GTM Pulley mod (just need to install it)

Haven't herd of the Zeitronix, will check it out. Thanks.

How much HP did you put to the wheels with your setup?

 

Hit 370hp, but belt was slipping non-stop. I have since added the pulley mod and just recently purchased a new Si Trim blower, so we'll see what that does.

https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...rev-tuned.html

That's actually the exact catch can that I have, only mine is gray. It does fine. I've seen catch cans made of soup cans that work just fine. I never understood putting in a $200 catch can into a daily driver.

Zeitronix was recommended to me by Jared at Uprev, so I figured he knows his stuff. Plus it has EGT and Boost guage built in/option, which is great cause I really didn't want all the guage pods everywhere.

 

also, I'd put the stock crank pulley back on, otherwise you may overspin the blower depending on the size of the pulleys. There's a pulley calculator on the forum somewhere, but sounds like you're in my shoes where this is a fun daily driver, in which case, my advice is to stick with what's known, then start changing stuff out.

 

If the tune is done right the 2.87 will not be a problem. The torque is what kills the rods and you won't see over 370wtq even with the 2.87

 

The crankshaft pulley are all stock size, just the lighter weight aluminum. Just reading the thread about the UR not being harmonically balanced and could cause damage to the crank bearings, etc. I don't think I will really be losing that much by switching back to stock. My plan is the same, to have it as a fun daily driver.

What are the limits I don't want to surpass on the stock DE motor? 370Tq, 425HP?

 

I have been making 414whp and 355wtq without any problems. I don't daily drive my car but have put about 8,000 hard miles on it so far and about 8,000 with my 3.12 pulley. I don't think 425/370 would be an issue but that would be about the limit.

 

Ok, I appreciate the info. I think I will give the 2.87 a shot, as I should make similar numbers if not lower than what you are producing now.

 

Yea you should be fine, I made my numbers with Meth Injection. I made 398whp and 340wtq without the meth.

 

I'm just curious, you guys with the higher whp numbers and lower wtq how is the driving experience. I had the TN turbo on and it I made 365whp 360wtq and it hit hard and was fun to drive. How are your guys driving experience. Have any of you had both turbo and or ridden in both and felt the difference. I've never been in a sc car before. Sorry about the thread jack.

 

The torque difference is significant...my old Vortech setup was about 420 whp/350 torque, and it was great fun, nice smooth linear torque...then I got into my friend's car TT with 430 whp/420 torque...and the surge of the turbos is significant and neck-snapping...

That being said, it's probably harder to handle the TT setup when the boost kicks in hard...the Vortech's still kicks in, but much more mildly in comparison to the turbos, but still great fun...

my new Vortech setup has 450 torque, but I haven't had a chance to run it hard yet since I'm breaking in my built engine and have crappy tires...we'll see how it feels when everything is setup...

 

Yea the power is very linear and it progressively pulls harder and harder all the way to redline. Honestly it doesn't feel like it's pulling very hard until you look at how fast you are going. But this is why a sc is much safer for the rods than a turbo. The neck snapping kick that a turbo gives while fun is also rod snapping power the way it kicks in. But when it comes to the track, torque puts smiles on faces and horsepower wins races

 

I have a SC G35 and a Turbo built Prelude. The G35 is much smoother and a better daily driver car than the lude. Turbos are fun for spirirted driving, but SC seem more practical with the linear power band.

 

So heard back from Vortech. They did the rebuild and said it looked like there was a slight bend in one of the fins on the impeller. Unfortunately, I couldn't replace the just the impeller because I have the SC trim. They had to upgrade the housing and impeller so I now have the SCi trim. They are shipping it back, and should have soon. Also picked up a machined and polished timing cover for some more belt clearance from BIG-C to avoid rubbing.

Due to the additional cost of the rebuild, going to be another month before I can get the final pieces. I'll post some pics up once I get it back.

 

Some "In Progress" pics. (crap pics from phone) I know it's been a while!


Polished Intercooler




Should be finished next week, then taking it in for the dyno tuning.
Will post up dyno results and pictures of everything cleaned up, rare JDM cover on, etc.

 

^you shoulda had them update your belt routing on the mounting plate as well. Thats the slip-o-rama layout

 

I thought a new version had a new layout. Can you revise the layout on the original version? Could you point me to the correct diagram. Thanks for the help.

 

yours


revised



from this thread
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...questions.html

The orginal belt routing prompted all those pulley mods. Totally unnecessary with the revised routing