2004.5 Touring 5AT with procharger @9psi (353whp 290wtq on mustang dyno)

So my tranny is completely gone, and so far I have thought of these options:

a) buy a new tranny from nissan, $2700 without labor

b) buy a used tranny $800ish, however I still haven't found an 04.5 5at tranny

c) a conversion to mt

d) ____________

I'd rather not purchase a brand new transmission as it is a lot of money (and my car has 80k miles), and eventually it will give up again. Same goes for buying a used tranny, but it will be a lot cheaper and a more realistic option. I'd really love to finally have my car on a manual transmission, but I'm afraid that its too much of a long and expensive process.

Has anyone gone through this? What did you end up doing? What would you suggest I do?

Right now the car's sitting at the dealership, and I'll like to have it back and running as soon as possible

Thanks

 

Send out your current transmission to be rebuilt properly for FI? Contact Sam at GTM? My GTM-5AT has been working well for 15k miles at 500 wtq.

 

Could you tell me how long it took, and how much you paid?

 

0_0

When I fist glanced at your post that's what I saw. Sorry to hear about the tansmission though, good luck.

 

Prices are on their website.

 

but that's building off of functioning trans!!
did you find out what was the exact problem??
after you aqcuire that info you should contact sam

 

C! C! C!

 

I thought the auto transmission was good for up to 400-500hp. Did you do the torque converter, vb and transmission cooler upgrade?

 

You can most definitely rebuild a bad tranny and build it up to hold big power...that's what I'm going to do if mine ever fails ( holding 350+whp and still chirps 3rd gear...weeee ).

 

rebuild if you can or find a used trans...there is a guy who wrecked his Z with an auto in it

"Wrecked Z -Fix it or ditch it"

 

It is not horsepower that kills the auto-transmission it is the torque. I'm assuming he didn't have any of these items installed otherwise this wouldn't have happened because he really isn't pushing that much tq. I believe with a vb upgrade and transmission cooler he should have been good up to about 400rwtq.

 

You are right and if he only had put in the vb and cooler upgrade i think he would have been fine.Either GTM or SFR can do a good high power trans rebuild upgrade.

 

Was wondering what he ended up paying after shipping, taxes, fees, the whole 9 yards.. but thanks for contributing your intelligence to this thread



Will look for it, thanks

Great, thanks

This weekend when the problem began occurring, it would run fine the first couple of minutes (which turned later seconds) after being turned on, and then eventually slip out of gear. So would this be directly linked to the heat?

 

I'm sure GTM will give you a special my350z.com deal
My G is there for the same reason.
C. is pretty expensive.

 

really, how do you know this?. My DIY 6mt swap costs no more than $1500 in parts.

 

I'd say build an auto, approximately $3,200 from IPT. 12k/12month warranty, for a tranny that will handle 500+ hp

 

1. Buy used (working) tranny
2. Install VB upgrade
3. Install AT cooler

You should not have any more issue at all, especially with such low tq.

 

The large trans cooler is important (mine is 11 x 11 x 1.5").

As I recall, I paid around $4k for my GTM-5AT and that included the torque converter, valve body, full rebuild kit, and some minor machining to improve ATF flow. That was awhile ago though. Although they may be more expensive, they do stand behind their work (for use up to 600 wtq I believe). I would call Sam and get details and then go do your comparison shopping...

IPT didn't have a solution back when I built my 5AT. I'd be interested to know if anyone has gone with them and how well theirs holds up.

 

I have a completely built 5AT that has handled 500WHP and 500Wtq very well. I am looking to change it out for a TH400 or something along those lines and push it to 750WHP range and track it more.

If you are interested, I may be selling this trans very soon.

 

Sorry, I must have overlooked your DIY post. It would be nice to see a list of all OEM parts and steps to complete the swap.
I'm guessing the OP has no plans of even trying it DIY knowing his car is at the dealer.
I know it's pretty expensive because I got quoted on it.
The gauge cluster and e - brake relocation kinda detoured me from trying it myself.
Those clutches that hold higher hp get pretty expensive.