hopefully the eruption isn't the coolant boiling.

 

i think i know what the issue is

 

Please explain. I'm confused or you are.

 

I had the same problem your describing.

I went to the dealership where I purchased my vehicle from to do a coolant system pressure and vacuum test. It ended being one of the heater hose spring clamp. I'm assuming you reused your original heater hoses and spring clamps. I had to re align the clamp back to original position from factory (heater supply hose on passenger side). The hoses become deformed from the clamps after a period of time.

What happened in my situation as the engine cooled down air was drawn in past the heater hose area where the spring clamp caused the hose to be recessed. Try re-aligning the spring clamps to original position or replace the clamps with standard worm gear type stainless steel clamps.

 

well when i say it erupted out of nowhere thats what i mean....to describe it a little better when i would rev up the engine the coolant level in the spill free funnel would rise a little bit. then after a given amount of time the coolant level in the funnel is about 2 inches higher than i had it when i started. then i would rev it up again and the coolant would start to erupt out of the radiator into the funnel at a fast pace increasing the amount of fluid in the funnel rapidly. during this whole time and when the coolant starts to erupt the coolant level according to my stock water temp gauge would be at normal operating temperature.

it did this eruption two different times when i would bleed the coolant system. i would let it cool down like like your suppose to with the funnel always having fluid in it so that no air will enter the system.

the third time i bled the system i didn't do it for as long as the other times. i did the suggestion that was given to me on here where he would hold it at 5000 rpm for a little while while pumping the gas. it didn't erupt that time and i left the funnel in until it cooled down completely.

so far i ran the car hard and drove her for a while today then pulled into my garage and let it idle for a little while. it didn't overheat and hopefully it won't ever again. ill inform this thread periodically this month about my progress. thanks for all the help. hopefully the only reason i need to write something on here again is to help or say good news.

 

lol, then that means your "eruptions" were the air bubbles being released!

i had some bubbling like that for the first time, but it wasn't really bad. if the temps are normal and it's erupting then it's the air getting pushed out. I filled my cooling system VERY slow to start with which helps get most of the air out. If you just poured it in fast it will trap air and you get that erupting when it finds it's way to the free world.

if you go out and run the crap out of it for a day or so bleed it again. sometimes runnign it hard will loosen up some small bubbles also.

glad you got it working.

 

yeah all was well and she was cooling off faster like she used to and not overheating so easily but.....she just overheated yesterday when i was driving to the library on base....i turned her off then let her sit for 20 minutes and drove her home 15 minutes away. i drove her hard then when i got home i let her idle for a minute but she didn't overheat again.....i'm going to purge the system again (like he said above me) and run her hard then let her idle for a few minutes then shut her down, pop the hood, run my fan in my garage toward the engine bay to help cool her down, then purge the system an hour or two later. I'm going to do the 5000 rpm hold again. the only bad thing about this purging is that im sure my neighbors on my street HATE that i'm revving my car over and over....lol....because when you have a SC added with Strup headers, Fast Intentions resonated testpipes and Intimidator cat-back exhaust it's a loud mean ***** f****r.

 

Have you checked the Heater hose spring Clamps ? Mine where repositioned when I did the header install on my car. Like I mentioned previously overheating issue wasn't resolved until the heater hose spring clamps were restored to original position from factory.

 

Did you fix it? Mine started doing exact same thing yesterday. Temps aren't even hot outside, in 70s. Engine is complete stock, manual 2004 with like 25k miles. I just noticed when I was parallel parking into a tight spot, that temps started going above normal, and in some 10 seconds shot up to max... After movie same thing, while driving on highway home, temps stayed fine, but as soon as i'd stop at light, and then slowly into my neighborhood- they shot up again... I'm wondering why this would happen from out of nowhere? I just put new fluid in the system like a month ago, and temps have been fine until yesterday (even on hotter days)... so let me know what you try :P

 

if you let it heat all the way up again you need to have the spill free funnel in place with coolant in it so when it cools off it draws coolant back into the system. If you keep the rad cap on (or off after it's been heated) then only air gets pulled back into the system and not coolant like the spill free funnel. sometimes it takes a few days driving then purging it again to get out some pesky bubbles.

 

all this bleed and repeat has been going on to long,someone's gotta say it so it might as well be me........it behaving like you hurt a headgasket.do a combustion test with the coolant.

 

^+1. i bled my car the 1st time with no problems. Its really not that hard. HG definitely needs to be checked.

 

so when it overheats do you look under the hood to see the fluid level in the coolant reservoir or if it's actually getting hott? Reason I ask is because when you refilled your radiator you might of not put any fluid in the reservoir because you didn't say anything if you did or not. Also if it's not actually hott under the hood then you could have a bad water temp. sensor. If you can smell coolant then you may have a leak. But get a spill free funnel and purge the air system. If that doesn't work then do a compression test on the coolant system. If it drops pressure a couple pounds within a couple minutes then you have a leak so listen for the leak in your system.

Yeah I agree. I'm going to be purging the coolant system again this weekend then taking her to the strip to get my 1/4 mile time. I'll see if she overheats again or not.....

hurt a headgasket? if your trying to say I have a bad headgasket then i would have to say I don't because my oil and coolant aren't mixed. Simple way to check that is by looking at your oil fill cap and see what the condition of the oil looks like. It's not milky or anything so i'm good. Thanks for the input though....when you say "combustion test with the coolant" to you mean a compression test on the coolant system? Or if your saying I have a bad headgasket are you saying to do a compression test/leakdown test on my engine? I don't understand what your saying.....

 

I think he means to have a sample of your coolant tested for signs of combustion. It's possible that the leak is small enough to let combustion gasses force its way into your coolant, but not necessarily large enough to let coolant leak into the oil.

 

correct

 

I see. So there no visual sign of this? You can only get the coolant tested? I live in eastern north carolina near Jacksonville and I don't know of a place that does that. Any help to find a place to get it done?

 

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-Combusti.../dp/B0007ZDRUI

 

Any decent tech will have the kit that is needed.

 

thanks for the link. That led to a lot of tools that I may invest in. I just bought a greddy rad cap and it should be here tomorrow. I borrowed a coolant pressure test kit from autozone....which is free btw if any of you didn't know that....it didn't fit my radiator but I could test the radiator cap which is the mishimoto 19psi cap that came with my mishimoto thick core rad that i previously had installed. well there was either something wrong with the pressure kit or it was actually the radiator cap because it only went up to 13psi but then it would slowly go down in pressure. That would typically mean that the seal for the cap is bad but idk if i should trust that kit.
well i bought the greddy rad cap anyways because im selling the mishimoto radiator to a friend of mine so i needed a new cap anyways.

if it was my radiator cap not sealing correctly and not holding the correct pressure that would result in air entering the system as well as a lower boiling point for the rad coolant. this could very well be the case but this is all trial and error and eventually it will be fixed and we will all know the answer for future refference.

 

I'm not a fan of that Mishimoto radiator cap.