My 700whp thead : )
congrat on the numbers! If it's a dynapack then it reads pretty high usually. My car made 670 WHP on the same kind of dyno and only made 523 WHP on a DD LOL. But wutever...you made the numbers that you said you were gonna make.
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.......From now on I will only dyno my car on a Dyna Pak
...less stress on my car.
BTW.... Congrats OP
Last edited by XKR; Jul 5, 2010 at 08:03 PM.
Haha yea that was me with the blow-by issues. It is the same motor as before. 2 weeks ago we did a leakdown test and it came back in great shape so I made no changes, drove the car around babying it and now its running great. So whatever the issue was it's gone now. I also added a drain/vent to upper oil pan but I havent been getting much oil in the catch can regardless...
The q16 was $85 for a 5 gallon drum
not the cheapest thing in world thats for sure, but hey gotta pay to play right?
The q16 was $85 for a 5 gallon drum
not the cheapest thing in world thats for sure, but hey gotta pay to play right?
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Hey J,
Out of curiosity how were the duty cycles on the injectors at that power. Thats about the highest power on 800cc injectors we've seen on these cars (beauty of oxygenated fuels).
How's it feel on the streets? Had a chance to "test" it against anything yet??????
Tom
Out of curiosity how were the duty cycles on the injectors at that power. Thats about the highest power on 800cc injectors we've seen on these cars (beauty of oxygenated fuels).
How's it feel on the streets? Had a chance to "test" it against anything yet??????
Tom
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Hey J,
Out of curiosity how were the duty cycles on the injectors at that power. Thats about the highest power on 800cc injectors we've seen on these cars (beauty of oxygenated fuels).
How's it feel on the streets? Had a chance to "test" it against anything yet??????
Tom
Out of curiosity how were the duty cycles on the injectors at that power. Thats about the highest power on 800cc injectors we've seen on these cars (beauty of oxygenated fuels).
How's it feel on the streets? Had a chance to "test" it against anything yet??????
Tom
On the street though it is insane. I have literally no traction till 4th gear and that is in 95+ degree heat with 275 yokohama S drives in the rear. In the near future I plan on getting a set of Toyo r888's and see how that helps. Once in fourth gear though the car is a rocket and I can "peg" the speedo in the blink of an eye it feels like (all on a closed track or course
) I haven't "tested" it against anything yet....had a Zo6 owner call me out last night, when it came time to meetup though my phone was silent 
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NICE,
ran a C5 Z06 w boltons myself few days back (17psi on pump for me)...through part of 3rd and 4th gear was 8-10 cars easy (guess that means this thing should do mid 130mph 1/4s on pump lol).
R888's should definately give you traction.
Have you thought about the auto diff? With the tq the turbos make the 3.3 diff was awesome for me....much more usable speed. Yes techinically you should accelerate slower cause the gear is taller, but you spend more time using the tq so you accelerate MUCH faster. And now with rpm increase and gear I can hit about 130mph in 4th.
Tom
ran a C5 Z06 w boltons myself few days back (17psi on pump for me)...through part of 3rd and 4th gear was 8-10 cars easy (guess that means this thing should do mid 130mph 1/4s on pump lol).
R888's should definately give you traction.
Have you thought about the auto diff? With the tq the turbos make the 3.3 diff was awesome for me....much more usable speed. Yes techinically you should accelerate slower cause the gear is taller, but you spend more time using the tq so you accelerate MUCH faster. And now with rpm increase and gear I can hit about 130mph in 4th.
Tom
I honestly do not know what the duty cycle is right now. I'll have to ask John about that.
On the street though it is insane. I have literally no traction till 4th gear and that is in 95+ degree heat with 275 yokohama S drives in the rear. In the near future I plan on getting a set of Toyo r888's and see how that helps. Once in fourth gear though the car is a rocket and I can "peg" the speedo in the blink of an eye it feels like (all on a closed track or course) I haven't "tested" it against anything yet....had a Zo6 owner call me out last night, when it came time to meetup though my phone was silent
On the street though it is insane. I have literally no traction till 4th gear and that is in 95+ degree heat with 275 yokohama S drives in the rear. In the near future I plan on getting a set of Toyo r888's and see how that helps. Once in fourth gear though the car is a rocket and I can "peg" the speedo in the blink of an eye it feels like (all on a closed track or course
) I haven't "tested" it against anything yet....had a Zo6 owner call me out last night, when it came time to meetup though my phone was silent Last edited by thom000001; Jul 6, 2010 at 07:07 AM.
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That's awesome Tom! I am really considerding switching to the auto gears. I will most likely if I still have substantle traction issues after I get better tires. I'm also eyeing some Weld Pro Stars and Mickey Thompsons for some track fun. Hopefully I can break the 130mph trap in the 1/4. Time to learn how to launch/drive at the track for me.
just catching up on the thread... congrats OP. If you can get trap times or true DJ numbers id help with comparisons a bit(otherwise corrections from other dynos dont work, and in any case its just a car tuning tool 
)... again, congrats...setup looks nice even though i am not a fan of ssv, but loosk good on your engine bay 
)... again, congrats...setup looks nice even though i am not a fan of ssv, but loosk good on your engine bay
Last edited by IIQuickSilverII; Jul 6, 2010 at 07:39 AM.
Actually, if it's properly tuned for Q16 it should run richer on an non oxygenated fuel such as C16. Q16 with the increased oxygen in the cylinder is going to burn at a faster rate, causing you to have to increase the amount of fuel being dumped to compensate. Using this same map on C16 would result in a higher % of unburned (or slower burning fuel) in the cylinder while of course producing less power.
It's dangerous to tune to the max on C16 and then switch to Q16 for this reason. Q16, according to VP, requires 4-6% more fuel flow into the cylinders than a comparable non-oxygenated fuel and if an engine is near lean on C16 it could be in trouble on Q16.
Even though Q16 has a higher threshold for detonation and in theory should be safer than C16 at the same fuel flow the slower burn of C16 would offset this when paired with the increased fuel flow needed for Q16.
Congrats...
In last thread you were 'talking up' the WHP from Dave's DD dyno with some kind of conversion factor between DD and DJ. I figured you were shooting for 700WHP DJ based on all the talk about conversion factors.
In this thread it should be noted that dynapack dyno will read higher than a DJ, you're likely shy of 700whp by a possibly significant margin.
In last thread you were 'talking up' the WHP from Dave's DD dyno with some kind of conversion factor between DD and DJ. I figured you were shooting for 700WHP DJ based on all the talk about conversion factors.
In this thread it should be noted that dynapack dyno will read higher than a DJ, you're likely shy of 700whp by a possibly significant margin.
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Congrats...
In last thread you were 'talking up' the WHP from Dave's DD dyno with some kind of conversion factor between DD and DJ. I figured you were shooting for 700WHP DJ based on all the talk about conversion factors.
In this thread it should be noted that dynapack dyno will read higher than a DJ, you're likely shy of 700whp by a possibly significant margin.
In last thread you were 'talking up' the WHP from Dave's DD dyno with some kind of conversion factor between DD and DJ. I figured you were shooting for 700WHP DJ based on all the talk about conversion factors.
In this thread it should be noted that dynapack dyno will read higher than a DJ, you're likely shy of 700whp by a possibly significant margin.
