That is True only with Zero Belt slip. Many people on my350z spin there Vortech Faster that recommend, based on No belt slip.

Remember, there is always some belt slip with a Serpentine setup

My set up is a V2 SC trim 7100rpm, 28/32, 2.87 on an 2003 VQDE.
Over 40,000 miles with this set up, plus Drag strip Time...

 

I know you are one of the most experienced here and fastest.
If you were in my situation, what would you do?
Would you put the T-Trim and the ATI without any valve?

 

Why do you supose your making 14psi on your setup, and most other setups like yours make 12psi? I'm making 12.5psi with v2sc with 928 impeller 2.87, 550cc, GTM pulley, headers, test pipes, Borla TD, MD spacer, ACT clutch and flywheel. My dyno graph shows no slip at all. Could it be because your rev limiter is set at 7100 RPMs? Can 400 RPMs make 1.5 psi difference?

 

If you already have the Limiter Valve, I'd install it.

If your very concerned about the blower speed, you could go to a 30T on the back of the jackshaft. (4GR032-03 30 Tooth Count Jackshaft Pulley)

Or, You could start with the stock crank pulley, 28/32, and 3.33 (47,018) and see what kind of power and boost your making.

 

Yes, I believe it can. Especially since at those RPM the engine starts to lose efficiency and will flow less causing the SC to create even more boost.

 

How are you measuring your Boost? I'd hope not by Eye, with your Dash Gauge.

Actually, I'm m making 14.3 psi. I'm gaining about 1.1 psi from the added rpm. makes 13.2@6600rpm. Not every car is going to be exactly the same.

Very little belt slip.

 

I go by what my tuner pulled while dyno tunning. I'ld like that extra bump in boost, but I just don't want to bump my limiter with my stock block. Also I need to start looking to add a FRS and larger injectors. I began to lean out a little at redline (12.0 A/F @6700). He added more fuel and got me right at 11.8, but I want the added safety down the road.

 

if he adds fuel and the a/f drops then there is no problem. That's how it's suppose to work, the tune was just initially off.

When it leans out no matter how much fuel you add then you're out of injector or pump. That IS an issue.

 

True, unless he's already static ( which I don't know ).

 

Any Updates on your T-Trim

 

No, I'm living in my job lately.
Have not touch it in almost 2 weeks.

 

Update!

I made a quick change in plans. Installed the kit with the stock pulley and leaved the ATI and BLV valve for latter use, after having a taste for the kit. Not finish yet but at least the hardest part is done.

After the install notice how close the discharge pipe is to the crank pulley. That ATI would be a very thigh fit.

Do not have a caliper to measure this pulley but to me from the circumference it roughly measures the 3.33”. There is a post in this thread (and I have read it before ) staying that the 3.12” came standard with the T-Trim and the 3.33” will not fit due to the larger blower.



Need to install the catch can, bung to the cat, map sensor, tuner reg, oil cooler and gages.

Having no time sucks!

Have 2 options to install the oil cooler, at the driver side below the head lamp or at the passenger side replacing the wiper fluid reservoir.
I prefer to replace the reservoir.

Is there any way to get rid of the low fluid warning light if I do it, other than taking the light out of the gage cluster?

I do not use that thing anyway and 10 pounds less in the nose of the car are always welcome.

 

Looks pretty! What dyno are you going to take it to?

 

u measured at the belt interface and not the outside face right?
you can bolt the cooler right to the bumper brace and not move anything.

for the WW sensor, just unplug it from the tank, and there will be no light on the dash.

 

ya, bolt the cooler straight to the crash bar. There is PLENTY of room to keep the washer tank.


and thanks for the unplug tip rich. I keep mine empty because that's 8lbs i save (that i don't use) but the light was getting annoying.

 

Thanks!

I don’t know may be the Kennedy.

 

I measured the circumference at belt interface and with the circumference formula, calculated the diameter.
Any way lets see the dyno and then will decide what to do.


Thanks for the tip on the ww sensor, will take it out and put the cooler there since I do not use it.

 

I've taken it to Sporty ( Kennedy ) a few times but their dyno sucks. Their fans are a JOKE ( sometimes they don't even have fans and you have to do the runs with ZERO airflow ) and they constantly have problems with the pickup for the ignition coils ( I rarely got torque readings with them ). I ended up going to Auto X Dyno in Cataño because, while they aren't exactly perfect, they do offer a better dyno setup than Sporty does.

 

wow, no torque readings would make it impossible to tune for knock and max power safely.

 

no torque readings would make it impossible to determine horsepower.....