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Car won't start?

Old Sep 8, 2010 | 09:33 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Blackbird CPV35
Seems we have the exact same issue at the exact same time, maybe it was a timebomb Infiniti put in the cars lol

I read your thread and I have the exact same symptoms, car cranks but wont start, changed all crank and cam sensors, checked codes, checked every fuse (Even checked them with a multimeter for continuity) The only thing that starts the car is a push start. After the car runs for a bit I can start it with the key

Hopefully we can figure this out together
Seriously some voodoo going on here. The last time I went out for a drive my car threw a P2135 TPS entering the freeway exit I barely made it to the top of the exit as my car died 3 cool guys helped me push it to bump since the car wasn't warm enough to start on it's own. it's frustrating since the start issue is still present and new issues arise.
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Old Sep 8, 2010 | 09:45 AM
  #22  
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I should add after replacing the driver side cam sensor and removing the throttle body I did not do any of the relearn and reset procedures I heard needs to be done any time the harness is removed. Did read somewhere here a member had this same TPS issue and it ended up being a loose connection near the ecu.
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Old Sep 8, 2010 | 10:58 AM
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I did have a similar issue about a year ago on the dyno and it ended up being a throttle body. What are the chances that I go through 2 throttle bodies in less than a year though? You should try swapping out the TB with a known working one. If i knew anyone close with one I could do it
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Old Sep 8, 2010 | 11:08 AM
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I'm going to check it out w/ a multi meter if bad I actually have a spare throttle body that I think/hope works. Your start issue is the same as well? When cold it just sounds as if the starter was spinning?
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Old Sep 8, 2010 | 11:22 AM
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have you checked the tires?
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Old Sep 8, 2010 | 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by G35cTT
I'm going to check it out w/ a multi meter if bad I actually have a spare throttle body that I think/hope works. Your start issue is the same as well? When cold it just sounds as if the starter was spinning?

No starter sounds normal just no spark or the spark is inconsistent
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Old Sep 8, 2010 | 04:35 PM
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Water on the ECU.
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Old Sep 8, 2010 | 05:37 PM
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Hal put my haltech in his car and it ran fine. I don't know how water would get in my factory ecu when it's behind the glovebox. Luckily I have a vq40 frontier so I've been swapping parts to see what works and what doesn't. Throttle bodies are different though
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Old Sep 9, 2010 | 04:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Blackbird CPV35
I did have a similar issue about a year ago on the dyno and it ended up being a throttle body. What are the chances that I go through 2 throttle bodies in less than a year though? You should try swapping out the TB with a known working one. If i knew anyone close with one I could do it
I also went thru 2 throttle bodies in a year but luckily since about 2 years ago its been ok since.
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Old Sep 9, 2010 | 02:55 PM
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I swapped all 6 coils onto my Frontier and it ran perfectly. So that eliminates that problem completely
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Old Sep 13, 2010 | 06:58 AM
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Got rid of the TPS code w/ the new throttle boddy still have start issue. I have a brand new optima which seems to not hold charge well, heard others having issues w/ optima batteries.
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Old Sep 13, 2010 | 06:21 PM
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I emailed Hal my data log and he determined my cam and crank sensors are not in sync. I replaced all the sensors already so its either a wiring issue, ecu issue, or teeth on the flywheel are damaged
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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Blackbird CPV35
I emailed Hal my data log and he determined my cam and crank sensors are not in sync. I replaced all the sensors already so its either a wiring issue, ecu issue, or teeth on the flywheel are damaged

Would the car still start fine if the flywheel was damaged?
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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 09:37 AM
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^^ If you unplug the crank angle sensor (part the reads the flywheel teeth), it should crank a little longer than normal then the ECU will switch to using the cam sensor to run the motor and it will start. This is what I have seen happen on a rev-up, not sure about the non-rev but it is most likely the same.
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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 09:51 AM
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your miss counter was showing miss's after startup? Thats how Hal explained to me if your sensors are not lined up...

My car was weird cuz in the same log i'd get 1 miss at start, then it would go to 2 and then back to 1 by the end of the log. Hav eyou tried swapping back stock injectors and stock ecu and see if it runs. My car was perfect on the stock setup which narrowed it 100% at the Haltech.

I think this all goes back to the issue that 2003 G35 have issues with Haltechs, even if IP or Haltech doesnt want to acknowledge it. Still waiting on the cam phasing fix.....

Originally Posted by Blackbird CPV35
I emailed Hal my data log and he determined my cam and crank sensors are not in sync. I replaced all the sensors already so its either a wiring issue, ecu issue, or teeth on the flywheel are damaged

Last edited by str8dum1; Sep 14, 2010 at 09:52 AM.
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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 01:01 PM
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Blackbird CPV35 is using the Haltech my car is using the FCon VPro could this be my VPro? The weird thing is both cars start when warmed up no problem after a few hrs of sitting my car won't start.
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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by str8dum1
your miss counter was showing miss's after startup? Thats how Hal explained to me if your sensors are not lined up...

My car was weird cuz in the same log i'd get 1 miss at start, then it would go to 2 and then back to 1 by the end of the log. Hav eyou tried swapping back stock injectors and stock ecu and see if it runs. My car was perfect on the stock setup which narrowed it 100% at the Haltech.

I think this all goes back to the issue that 2003 G35 have issues with Haltechs, even if IP or Haltech doesnt want to acknowledge it. Still waiting on the cam phasing fix.....


thats probably one of the last things I would do. I currently have a completely full tank of E85 and I would have to drain it and fill the car up with regular gas to test that.

I inspected the flywheel and there is no damage or any signs of abnormal wear. Im going to try to rewire the crank sensor and see what happens

Rich, here is my datalog if you want to take a look at it

http://www.easy-share.com/1912274849/cranking.csv

open it in haltech ecu manager and use the PC logger playback feature to look at it in real time.
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Old Sep 20, 2010 | 01:08 PM
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Checking to see if the rewiring worked? Only update I have is probably going to bring the car to the shop when I get a chance and have them find/fix the issue.
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Old Sep 20, 2010 | 02:34 PM
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Ya so your Mcount is rising, giving same conclusion as Hal about the sensors not aligned.

But any reason why your battery voltage is taking such a dump? I assume you've tried to jump start as 9V wont turn anything over....

Originally Posted by Blackbird CPV35
thats probably one of the last things I would do. I currently have a completely full tank of E85 and I would have to drain it and fill the car up with regular gas to test that.

I inspected the flywheel and there is no damage or any signs of abnormal wear. Im going to try to rewire the crank sensor and see what happens

Rich, here is my datalog if you want to take a look at it

http://www.easy-share.com/1912274849/cranking.csv

open it in haltech ecu manager and use the PC logger playback feature to look at it in real time.
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Old Sep 20, 2010 | 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by str8dum1
Ya so your Mcount is rising, giving same conclusion as Hal about the sensors not aligned.

But any reason why your battery voltage is taking such a dump? I assume you've tried to jump start as 9V wont turn anything over....
The battery is only a year old and its fully charged, I dont know why its taking such a dump but the ground wire off of the battery also gets kind of warm after I crank it for a little bit

Hal is coming to my house this week to diagnose the problem, now thats what I call service!
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