We always cut the hose a bit and keep the stock bleed valve along with the APS 't' fitting

 

^Thats not a bad idea! I might have to try that on mine!

 

Good plan....wish I would have done that 5 years ago...now I have no idea where that bleed valve is...

 

so your lower hose is getting hot then? so that's not the "same" problem as the op then.

I don't use that bleed screw anyways with a spill free funnel. There is no need. Spill free funnel takes care of all issues.

 

That bleed screw helps evacuate some of the air in the lines as you are pouring in the coolant. It definitely helps to have it, even with a funnel.

 

Guys I took the car out for a blast and it did not overheat or puke coolant. The coolant. The coolant level did get very close to the top of the overflow tank but did not overflow.

One thing that did happen is the coolant overflowed a very small amount when the car was shut off. I'm only running drinking water/anti freeze mix because of all the problems with overflowing I've been having. I think this may have lowered the boiling point a bit too much so that won't be helping. Also I'm still running the oem rad cap so I'm thinking a high pressure rad cap may help too? What do you lot think????

 

^ If you are sure it has been properly bled, then mark your coolant level when the car is cold. Beat on the car and allow it to sit until cold. Is the coolant level the same as starting? It should always rest in the same place when the car is cold. A high pressure radiator cap is not the solution.

 

changing the radiator cap doesn't change your coolant temperature, all it does is hold the hot coolant in the system longer which increases radiator pressure. The water temps WILL NOT change.

Using tap water and coolant will not change your boiling point, it will only add nasty mineral deposits in your system. It takes about 2 gallons of coolant, if you use a 50/50 mix that is only 1 gallon of distilled water. Can't spring for a 1$ jug of distilled water? tap to distilled won't change boiling point, but it'll change the nasty minerals that oxidize and destroy performance in the system. I'd remove it and use distilled.

The fact that it didn't spew out doesn't mean that your problem is fixed. Did you check the lower radiator hose to see if it's warming up (meaning the tstat is opening)? From the low mark my coolant level only raises to the max level. If yours is filling all the way up something is still wrong. What were the coolant temps? That is the main thing to watch.

 

The bottom rad hose does warm up now, The OEM fans kicked in and went off again a few times and the OEM water temp gauge never moved at all.

I need to gt a good water temp gauge to see what coolant temps are really doing.

 

if the lower hose is heating that means that the tstat is opening. So you're on the right track. Probably after a week or so of driving i would re-bleed it to remove anything left in the system. I kept getting air out after multiple bleeding attempts until i used the spill free.

 

I think I have a small coolant leak that only leaks when the system has pressured up. Meaning Im losing a small amount of coolant. Im still thinking im boiling the coolant in the turbo's when the car is shutdown and making small air bubbles. I can hear gurggling from the top metal coolant line where the turbo water pipe returns. Im having a bleed/swirl system fitted soon so i hope that the new system will get rid of this problem.

 

i'd like to see what the temps are.

Hearing gurgling means there is air in the system. If you allow enough time idling or non-boost for the turbo then there shouldn't be boiling. Something just isn't adding up.

 

The spill-free funnel method always works for me. If you think you have a leak then it would be best to pressure test the system and see if it holds.

 

A coolant system pressure test is the next guess for me. Binder I have a turbo timer that's set for a quick 30sec cool down time. I never boost the car and then shut it down quickly. I normally have a mile or so gentle drive then the 30 sec cooldown. Do think I need more time at idle for the cooldown?

 

no, i don't even use a turbo timer. All it's doing is allowign it to sit there an idle. If i'm cruising around in vac, then doing 30 seconds of basically idling through my parking lot before parking the car it should be cooled enough.

That's why i'm thinking the coolant shouldn't be boiling because of the turbo. If that was the case then a lot of people would have boiling coolant from turbos and they aren't.

 

Fair enough mate. I need to know how much movement the overflow tank should see? The stock overflow would move a few inches may be when fully hot? My APS tank goes not far off empty to not far off full which does not seem right?

 

oOo, i didn't realize you had an aps coolant tank. ya, i think they are smaller and from what i've read people put just barely a little coolant in them because they do fill up a lot when the car heats up.

maybe someone with an aps can chime in. I think that sounds right so your system should be working normally.

 

Yeah the APS COOLANT OVERFLOW IS ALOT SMALLER than the stock overflow so if some one with and aps car can chime in and let me know how there system works that would be awesome.

I'm still thinking the car has air in the system because when I shut the car down I'm still getting the guggleing and bubbling Noise coming from the top metal rad hose.

I'm taking the car in for final mapping soon so I'll get the tuner to pressure test the coolant system and dump the crappy drinking water/anti freeze mix I have in there and replace it with Evans NPG+ waterless coolant. This should help I think.

 

i wouldn't mess with evans until you get the bleeding process figured out. expensive stuff to mess with.

If you hear bubbling then you do have air. 20$ spill free funnel. make sure you can get the air out and it's only a bleeding problem and not a headgasket leak or something else.

 

You still have air in the system... I have (had) the APS system and when you get the coolant level set correctly as Hal said it will not puke through the overflow when hot and will have coolant in the overflow when cold. If its still puking after hard runs it still has an issue somewhere.

If you can "T" in the stock bleeder fitting to the rear coolant hose it will be helpful. That is how we got the air out of my system.