Hello all,

I believe i've done what i could over this past year of collecting info and building my parts list, now i'm in the position to purchase everything on said list but i wanted to post here in the forums to gather opinions or suggestions on things that i may or may not need or other products that i can purchase for a lower price than what i have listed. My goal is to build a 2008 vq35hr 600 rwhp daily driver with the occasional auto-x and circuit events. Being that i'm paying everything out of my own pocket, i'd like to do things right the first time, being deployed to iraq isn't the best and i'd rather want this build be a first time go. Money's great but job and environment sucks...so, without further ado, listed below is the items i have compiled.


-GTM Stage 2 Tuner Twin Turbo Kit
-CJ Motorsports Twin Fuel Pump Kit
-IPP stg 1 short block
-GTM basic fuel system
-GTM Competition Oil Cooler Kit
-GTM extended SS Clutch Line
-GTM CAMP2 W/ Sensors
-HKS EVC 6
-HKS Knock Amp
-Motordyne ARTS pipes for HR
-OS Giken Triple Plate Clutch
-Billet Motor Mount Kit
-ARC Combination Tank
-ARC pro choice diff cooler
-samco radiator hoses
-koyo radiator


questions:

1. would a 4.08 final drive be a waste if i'm going twin turbo?

2. Would i need the hks knock amp if i have the camp2?

3. Anything else i'm missing before i purchase?



Any help would be appreciated, been saving for awhile, and now the chance has come to finally build my Z, again, if i missed anything, please let me know, thank you

 

You want a longer final drive, not a shorter one. Cams maybe too, not sure where the HR tops out on the stockers. Are you looking for 600whp DJ or DD?

You may want to get more info on the solid mounts too if you are going to daily it, vibration may get old.

 

Def dont want any 4.08 gears in there as all you would be doing is spining tires.

 

ok, that saves me a good g right there, as for the mounts, by daily, i meant daily weekend driver and occasional trips to work, the car already is extremely incredibly loud due to the exhaust setup, so vibration would prolly not be as noticeable, the exhaust setup is high flow berks, 2.5 piping, dual apexi's n1's with NO resonators....true dual piping setup to...

 

i'm not sure how much the triple disk os costs now but my twin disk is HORRIBLE for street. I heard tilton and ats carbon are both great hp handlers and drivability is way better.

just thought i'd note since you are gonig to drop all the cash, if the cost difference isn't much i'd go for one of those.

 

Like Cass and Superchargedg said, you don't want 4.08 gears.

Also, IDK about efficiently achieving 600whp (DD or DJ) on the Stage 1 kit.

I would also try and get a ride in a car with solid motor mounts before you decide to purchase them.

 

ah about that, i meant the stage 2 kit, since gtm posted about 576 to the wheels at 14 psi on the stage 1, i was hoping to get 600 from the stg 2.


as for the clutch, i'll lookin into those, the shop that i'm goin with the build told me the os giken clutches are as soft as stock as for pedal feel, which is wat i'm goin for.

also, would i need the solid mounts then? rode in my buddies 500hp srt-4 with solid mounts and it seemed fine...my z is bumpy enough on the road anyway, so i'm not too sure if i'd notice the change

 

Ahh, that clears that up lol.

As far as the solid mounts go, they are definitely not necessary. I still have stock mounts on my HR TT and (obviously) it feels stock. A few years ago, a friend of mine had solid mounts in his TT DE and he took them off a few weeks later because he couldn't deal with the noise/vibration and he's usually not one to complain about that kind of thing.

 

ya, but that's not what "driveability" is defining. It's a super harsh engagement that is hell taking off in first with. Probably one of the roughest clutches i've ever used. I doubt i'll ever change mine sicne i've invested the money, but to do it all over again the driveability of tilton and ats carbon are suppose to be far superior. i just don't know the cost differnce. I know tilton are super expensive, but i think ats are in the same pricerange.

I've had mine for over a year and still look like a kid in drivers ed class when i take off from stop lights. You have to launch the car every time.

 

I made a lil tweak to your list:

-GTM Stage 2 Tuner Twin Turbo Kit
-GTM 3'' downpipes with external wastgates
-IPP stg 1 short block
-L19 Head Studs - VQ35
GTM Return Fuel System and 1000cc injectors and you can get close to 600whp DJ with just one pump (this one GTM RETURN FUEL SYSTEM FOR HR)
-GTM Competition Oil Cooler Kit
-GTM extended SS Clutch Line
-HKS EVC 6
-HKS F-CON V-PRO and HKS Knock Amp or Haltech <-- I like this more
-OS Giken Twin Plate Clutch would handle 600whp (twin is rated at 700rwtq from OS Giken) and OS Giken is a stiff clutch but I like it.
-ARC Combination Tank or just get a catch can
-ARC pro choice diff cooler or get the Nismo diff cover
-samco radiator hoses
-koyo radiator
-370z plugs
-3.3 final drive
-catback of your choice (at least 2.75'')
-Gauges a/f, oil press and temp, boost..

You would save some money here and there to get other more important parts.

 

I like the challenge when I ever take off from stop lights

You gotta love the rear getting sideways every time you take off from stop lights

 

Nismo, I'll answer your second question.

CAMP2 will only display A/F from the FCon that is connected to the AFK which is the way the FCON gets O2 sensor readings.

 

why would he switch to a gtm fuel system that is more expensive and has lower quality parts than a cjm system? the cjm uses teflon lines which is safe for e85 and they also have a protective coating so the SS braiding doesn't rub a hole in the car. A stage 2 cjm is better than that gtm and it's cheaper.

I would NOT recommend keeping a single pump though. There is a slim to none chance of getting 600whp out of a single walbro. "maybe' someone in the past has done it, but more haven't done it than have. I'd rather spend the cash on a decent fuel system that will definitely handle the hp you want.

also, the HKS fcon recommendation is a bad idea. I don't know of any HKS tuners in hawaii and it's not end user tunable. It's locked unless you are a tuner.

yes, the twin disk os will hold your hp level just fine but like i said, if you have the cash for an ats carbon it will be smoother to drive.

 

alrighty, so far i'm gna stick with the cjm system, after reading the other thread and the price wise....its not such a bad idea and it comes with two walbro pumps so, i'ma head that route

I'ma just stick with the osiris programming i already have, reason being is that i was planning to have it tuned using osiris anyway and i realy don't see a reason of having a F-con for what i want done, but if someone explains, then i might understand

@binder: i'ma go with the ATS triple metal disk with intergrated flywheel, bit more expensive, but the carbon version is just a lil more out of reach, from their info, the triple metal disk is more than enough to handle the power

I thought the GTM camp2 package came with all the sensors needed? i'll get with them but why would i need the extra gauges if i can program the camp2 to display those gauges?

I already have the nismo diff cooler, so i guess i can take off the arc diff cooler then

 

ok, talk with some people that have the metal ats. The only ones i know that are super smooth to drive are the carbon ones.

I think it's the carbon disks that make engagement smooth but i'm not certain. If the ats metallic engages harsh like an os giken then i'd go with the giken. Mine is build like a tank and i love it, minute the engagement. I wish it was just a bit smoother. that's the only thing that's a downfall. love evrything else about it.

 

ok, so in that case.....anyone have experience with the ATS metal triple disk? i know z1 automotive sells it which is who i was gonna purchse it from, maybe ya'll could chime in with some info? I'm really going for something comfortable clutch wise to drive, but not give out with the power goals i'm trying to achieve

Also, i heard the DW600cc injectors should be up to HKS 1000cc injectors or similar since they tend to run out, if thats the case, would it hurt to continue to run 600cc's or just spend the extra cash and go with 1000cc's?

 

you'll be hard pressed to get 600rwp out of 600cc injectors.

Minimum i would try is 800's.

ah, matter of fact, since you'll be running osiris you have to use high impedence injectors. HKS 1000's are low impedence and won't work with the stock ecu. So dw 800's or Injector Dynamics 1000's. ID makes 2000cc injectors that are supposed to be awsome so their 1000's have to rock too. They are popular with a lot of high hp builds. i think they are in the ballpark of the HKS 1000's for cost but they are high impedence so you can use them with the stock ecu.

 

The Camp2 will read stuff from the OBDII and the various additional sensors for boost/pressures/temps. However, it will not display knock or A/F without the AFK. And then the AFK readings will only display on the CAMP2 when connected to an FCON unit. Based on binder's recommendation/your choice to stay with Osiris, you shouldn't need the AFK, Osiris can monitor that. You just won't have A/F ratio or knock displayed on the Camp2 screen.

 

I don't think CJM has a full RFS for the HR.

 

ohhh, ok so injectors should be Dw800's or injected dynamics 1000's? i'm prolly find the cheapest of the two, i care about fuel but for a goal of 600, i'ma just go minimum needed.

I see, hmm, so any reason why GTM has used the hks afk before on customer cars and used only osiris and the camp2? i'm just wondering, i really would like to moniter A/F ratio or at least kno if my motor is in danger from knocks.

i'm also purchasing the gtm basic fuel return system, i'ma just see if i can skip on buying the walbro in their package since i'ma be using the CJM