I'd run it at only 6-8psi or at the lowest boost setting possible. Since you're only driving it for 6 months before you'll be moving up to forged internals (I'm assuming from what you said), I would just enjoy the 100+whp increase and the probability of the stock motor lasting a while or until you're ready to upgrade. This could save you a lot of money and headaches in the future.

 

i think 8 is spring pressure, but maybe someone can confirm, and thats why i want to pull some timing out to ensure i last until i swap in the built block. I considered doing built block and TT at once but 1) thats alot of cash at once, i like to spread out my spending 2) i feel like i need a step between ~270rwhp and +500

Thanks for the info

 

I believe its either 5-6psi is the wastegate spring pressure stock out of the box

 

is that on all the kits? tuner and BB?

 

I've been through what I'm warning you of, so that's where I'm coming from. I wish I would of done exactly what I'm suggesting to you.

 

I have kinetix velocity with 392 tq and am just fine

I run Mobil1 0w40 oil

 

o0o and spring pressure on mine is 7lbs

 

those were seperate statments, i was asking if anyone was running the JWT Clutch with ~420rwhp

 

o0o ok sorry I misunderstood I have a carbonetics triple disc clutch

 

I have similar questions as to the durability of the stock thermostat. Is there no need to change it with build as BoostNewbie's stage or is the stock thermo that good (ie lasting beyond 100k miles or having a boosted motor)?

 

there is no need to change the thermostat unless it fails which should last almost the life of the car

 

lol i love you newbies who have no idea how a thermostat works.

all the thermostat does is keep the coolant from circulating through the cooling system in your car. generally a VQ will have a general running temperature between 200 to 220 degrees. the thermostat is set to open up when the engine reaches are certain temperature. even if you had a thermostat that was to open at 100 degrees, it might delay motor from getting to 200 degrees for maybe a few minutes at most but it will always reach that 200 to 220 degree operating temperature. hell you could take out the thermostat all together and it wouldnt make any difference unless you drive your car in super cold weather, sub zero type schit.

 

Bump for an update:
I started the install about lunch on sat and now the engine is back in and running and im in the process of bleeding the Coolant, heres a pic

 

ok so the car is done and running GREAT!
it pulls like a train, BUT this could be due to me pushing 11.5PSI????? the only thing i can think of is that the previous owner installed the boost jet the kit comes with. Does anyone know where this is located, i havent had time to look through the install manual and try to find it, and if it is installed would that be causing the problem? my AFR is good right around 10 and should be making mid to high 400's, for know if i just cant resist a little boost i just short shift at about 5.5k

any advice is greatly appreciated

Edit: could it be something to do with the boost control solenoid? im not sure how exactly it works, could it be a bad ground on the solenoid or something like that?