Im not as new to this forum as it seems, ive been lurking for quite a while and am more active on other forums. Currently i have a 04 G35 Coupe 6MT with pretty much all the Boltons, heres most of my performance mods
JWT Clutch/Flywheel SS clutch line
JWT Popcharger / Ztube
Stillen Test pipes
APS 2.5in True dual
Stillen Underdrive Crank pulley
Solid Diff Mount
Kinetix Velocity Plenum
Osiris Tuned
along with alot of suspension mods

but i am about to install a used APS TT BB kit i got off a wrecked car, it was a rearend collsion and the kit was untouched and looks new. Its the complete kit with Fuel and Unichip. I plan to use the unichip combined with the Osiris. Right now i just want a safe 400-420rwhp. I have an engine im in the process of building but i wanted to work my way up to bigger goals so for about 6 months i plan to run on stock internals. I daily drive the car and i drive it relatively hard.

So far for boost i have purchased
APS TT kit
Defi Boost/Water Temp/ and soon oil pressure (eventually will change water to oil temp but bought them used)
Innovate Wideband
Nismo Finned Diff Cover
One Step Colder Spark Plugs
Koyo Radiator
Mishimoto Tstat
Silicon Hoses

next to purchase(after install
Fans
Front bumper
Saikou michi Catch Cans
3.5" APS Test Pipes
Considering Water injection since temps are ~100degrees here right now


Right now i am planning on doing the install this weekend, i uninstalled the kit and i have had my hands on pretty much everything imaginable on a G/Z including disassembling my other motor. But i am looking for advice on other supporting mods i need to make this reliable and things i may need to change in the near future, or maybe im just flatout missing something. So all advice is welcome.

Thanks

 

Money

 

3.5" Testpipes???

Why unichip with UpRev?

Get rid of underdrive crank pulley

What injectors are on the kit?? Is it a RFS??

 

i was considering the 3.5"s now to speed up spool

from what i understand the unichip will help driveability without having to buy a PMAS, and with the Osiris we can pull a little timing and make sure the AFRs are just right, on the build i plan to switch to Haltech

Ive heard not to run a underdrive pulley FI but never really looked into why. Bad on the bearings?

the kit comes with 500cc injectors, and it has a boost controlled regulator at the pump so from my understanding i dont need a RFS right now, is this correct?

 

I am pretty sure the downpipes forthe APS kit are 2.5" or 3" not 3.5 and I dont think there are 3.5" TP's

Underdrive throws off the harmonic balancing so puts motor at risk when you are going boosted.

I would go with a RFS its not a must have but will make it much more reliable and can be used when you do your build as well.

Check what kind of injectors. I presonally use 600dw's on my stock block setup and I think most would recommend DW for the least amount of issues.

other thing you will need is a HPX air flow sensor the stock one will max around 400hp
http://secure.uprev.com/accessories/hpx-maf-sensor.html

 

http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/t...z-p-19737.html

im not sure the brand injectors the kit comes with ill have to look later, unless someone else knows

and the HPX is whats i thought i was avoiding by tuning over the unichip?

 

There is no problem with using the aps fuel return. I have been using it with the injectors fron the kit , it will be good for 450rwhp on a stock motor. The unichip will work without having to reflash your ECU. Again the car drives fine with no problems at all. I have been running the kit for over 40k. The injectors with the kit are bosch. The downpipes are 2.5". Make sure you get the injector harness the stock one won't work. Anything else you want to know about the kit just ask.

 

APS Extreme kit has the 3.5" Downpipes for those confused.

Quoted from the APS Website:

"Hot exhaust gasses are scavenged by gigantic 3.5" down pipes that are each engineered with external wastegate flanges, constructed in highly polished stainless steel and precision TIG welded."

 

I have the APS 3.5" pipes too! Modified for my 700bb JWT kit. Big @ss pipes! Not sure what the external wastegate thing the website refers to - mine are internal gated and work just fine... Might want to get the turbos checked out before installing.

 

Op you should be fine with the stock APS TT kit I ran it with a Utec for 3yrs before I upgraded to a CJM fuel return system/APS 3.5" DP and a Methanol kit on stock block.

Get a plenum spacer and you should be fine.
JWT clutch don't think will last you long.
Start running 10W40 instead of the usual 5W30.

Make sure you grab the oil pickup spacer and the water tap that goes on the driver side of the block and adapter that goes on the oil pressure sensor to provide oil to the turbo's

 

The 3.5" APS pipes leave much to be desired IMO, they bottleneck at the lower flange and the actual inside diameter is more like 2.75" through most of the pipe

Just to be clear, if you have the tuner kit you may get the extreme pipes if you have one of the newer kits, or if you got one of the older BB turbo kits you will get the two piece smaller down pipes. The part about the external WGs is because the extreme kit used externals while the tuner kits still used internals for a while. I think APS just swapped the DPs to help eliminate inventory knowing they would be abandoning this platform.

 

delete

 

i have the Kinetix Velocity Plenum

is anyone running the JWT with ~420rwhp? ive read its supposed to hold up to 500lb/ft and since i figured i should only make <350lb/ft thats only about 400 at the crank

ive read that about the 10W40 but out of curiosity why is that?

I did get all the items you listed, the only thing i know of that i was missing is the check valve for the PCV system. Ive been following the PCV ventilation mod thread and ordered the Z32 check valve discussed in there. Thanks for all the help

Yea i have the BB kit so right now i have that adapter piece that connects the turbo to the test pipe, i was considering this since it eliminates that adapter i figured it would speed up the spool

and also a couple of weeks ago i saw a Z with the exact setup i will have dyno with unichip and it made 465 DJ on the first pull, so that pulled some timing with Osiris to keep those rods straight, Thats why i dont want to just run the unichip and i already have Osiris. I would just remove the Unichip and have it tuned just on Osiris but i dont want to buy a HPX right now and like stated earlier the MAF will peg at ~400

Thanks for all the advice

 

Mine are cut in half and rejoined with 3.5" v-bands to allow easier access to the turbos. I wouldn't want it any bigger - not much room up that way. That's a big difference though 3.5" vs 2.75". Some accountable by OD vs ID, but that's too much - never measured though. Hmmm....

 

ditch the plenum and use a spacer as Glex mentioned

oil cooler of some sort would be on my list, particularly if you 'drive it hard' and it's 100 degrees out

throw that thermostat in the trash, it is useless - stick with the stock one

as for the in/out diameter of the big test pipes, remember, it only really means something if the rest of the exhaust is also 3.5 inches. If the rest of the exhaust tapers down (which is likely), it's of little consequence. Can only flow as much as your smallest opening, so as long as the outlet diameter matches the rest of the exhaust, you should be good to go

 

Can you explain this a little more? I thought the Kinetix worked well with boost? Why is the thermostat useless?

i hope i dont sound like im contradicting you im just curious your reasoning

Thanks

 

The JWT clutch should be fine. I've run mine with it and had no problems with it holding the power. I was at 400+ rwhp on a mustang dyno. I also know someone who has run his Z at the track with low 11's with that clutch. You also have the option to get JWT's upgraded disc which is rated at 700 lbs of torque. Plus this clutch feels similar to stock.

 

To answer the question about the 10W40.

Oil will thin out with the introduction of more heat from the Turbos
so if you keep using 5w30 it will thin out even further.

I would take the recommendation of Adam as far as the thermostat the stock one or Nismo work just fine.
I'm using a HR thermostat but that is for different reasons.

Oh Adam talking about Oil coolers I might be hitting you up soon for one
still trying to see what is out there

 

I didnt know they offered a upgraded disk, thanks

oh ok, i already have some Amsoil 5-30 so i guess i will just change it out sooner than usual and next time swap to 10-40

is it just that its a Mishimoto Tstat that makes it useless? does it not open sooner?

im also interested in a oil cooler, whats the best bang for the buck option for my setup?

Also no one has addressed if water injection would be worth it for my setup?

 

feel free to search around for opinions on the Kinetix. A spacer is far more cost effective, and accomplishes the same goals

the thermostat is a complete was of time and money and there is no need whatsoever to change it