I made this guard out of some thin angle iron. I pounded it flat and cut it to shape as seen in the first picture.

I then removed the oil control valve seen in picture #2.

I found a bolt (see red circle, faint but it is there) that would work to mount the bottom part of this guard as seen in picture #3.

In picture #4, I then wrapped the guard as I put the cam sensor / control valve back into place and used two of the bolts to hold down the top part of this guard.

In picture #5, this is the top view of the two bolts that hold the top of my guard in place. You can pull it tight and the tighten the bolts down to hold it in place.

This should provide some good protection in the event of a cog belt failure with the vortech. I also covered all wires and the cam sensor plug wire with two layers of wire loom for extra protection (Including the wires that run on the other side of the cog belt along the fender). As many of you know a shredded cog belt with a Vortech often means a new ECU so this is cheap insurance. I took pics when I made this months ago and was inspired when I just saw someone fry their cam sensor wires with their Powerlab setup. Hope this saves some of you guys out there, as I know from experience replacing an ECU is not fun.

 

ya thats all mine was that I made a few years ago.

once bitten twice shy

 

nice...hope it helps out if ever a failure again..

 

Why, need a new ECU if belt shred?

 

Because most of the time it will shred an take out the wire going to the cam solenoid and the exposed wires ground out and short out the ECU. Here is a link to a thread when this happened to me https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...-cam-wire.html

 

happened to me too. I post pics of my guard up later

 

How much you want to make me one of these brackets?

 

excuse my ignorance, but it doesn't make sense at all...

pics doesn't explain anything, and i'm lost. i read the first post couple of times, but couldn't make up what you're trying to do, or where are you trying to do it.

 

the connector going to the driver side intake valve timing control solenoid
valve (referred to here as the cam sensor) is very close to the cogged, jackshaft pulley. if the cog belt were to break, it could hit that connector and sever the wires. some folks have reported that when this happens, it can short out your ECU.

the metal bracket is designed to cover that connector. should the cog belt break, the bracket should protect the connector & wires.

 

How to protect a Cam Sensor Plug from a Vortech Cog Belt?

Simple: TT

 

Gotcha!!

thanks!

i think i should consider this mod.

good idea, OP..

 

Thanks for the heads up on this I am awaiting a new belt as the gut who install mine overtightened it and it started shredding so time to install a cover and I contacted Vorteck and suggested a shield be supplied with kit they said they will look into it

 

I just updated this. The last pic shows the top view and the two bolts that hold the top of the bracket in place.

 

if one were to find a piece of metal stiff enough, do you think it would be sufficient to just use the two bolts on top of the control valve?

 

I thought of that as it would of been much easier to install. The only issue is that the cog belt is rotating upward relative to the cam sensor. Most of the time when these belts fail they shred. If the bracket wasn't fixed to the bottom bolt the belt may grab it and actually cause the metal guard to cut the sensor wire or destroy the plug. This is why I felt it was necessary to secure the bracket from the bottom. The other issue is space. I had less than a 1/4" between my pulley and that cam sensor plug so you can really put anything too thick in there.

 

If anyone wants to buy these, would be willing to pull mine out and make copies. If there is enough interest I will look into the proper steps of becoming a vendor to sell stuff on here.

 

Count me in..

 

^Me too

 

Im wondering how you guys are running the 34 tooth jackshaft pulley w/o hitting the wire connector...I tried installing the 34 tooth and was impossible..pulley clears barely but belt wont.
Also, anyone changing cog pulleys out beware that one side is recessed deeper than the other as I found out with locked up pulley when starting.
Any way to relocate or turn the electrical plug around so it faces the other side of the solenoid to provide clearance?

I need to know how to install the 34th and have clearance.

 

hey 350z400rwhp..i see you have an extra idler pulley near your sc pulley..where did you buy it and does it help? are you also running a 34 tooth cog pulley? Im working on making it work.