I have a GReddy TT 350z with 109,000 miles. The service engine light was blinking, and I took it to Auto Zone to get the code read. P0300 for multiple mis fires. I changed out the plugs, and reset the computer. Went about an eigth mile up the road, and it starts blinking again.

When I changed the plugs the driver side plugs had a little oil in it. I am affriad to try to put the car into boost becuase of the code. I would like to fix this problem first, then see why it will not go into boost.

I don't know much about this car. I bought it last June, and then put the turbo's on it last August. Please help.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e3.../350Z/band.jpg

<a href="http://s43.photobucket.com/albums/e382/IndyAZNMan/350Z/?action=view&current=band.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e382/IndyAZNMan/350Z/band.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

That is what it reads at idle

 

not good. quick way to super heat your EGTs and burn something up.

could be a ton of things
1.timing
2. afr
3. bad coil

would be the top things to check since you've changed your plugs already

What EMS is the car using? thats pretty lean at idle. YOu can miss when its too rich or too lean. Hopefully its just the tune that needs cleaning up.

good luck

 

I am checking engine compression tomorrow. How do I test the coil to see it if is bad? I am using HKS F-Con.

 

wow man do you have a fuel pressure gauge under the hood somewhere? can you tell us what that reads? sounds like you have a fuel pump going bad, if you didn't have this problem before. Give us a little more info on the build and we can help you out.

 

I doubt its a coil...when I lost a coil it went rich, not lean on the A/F meter.

Blinking light usually means steady misfire...

 

My Z did the exact same thing, and it turned out to be a bad fuel pump. Read 4psi @ idle, and it should have been at 51psi, according to the dealership

 

51? mine is around ~42 at idle.

if it's a bad coil then u can hear the motor not running on all cylinder and also the idle would jump up n down.

The OP did mention oil on the plugs so it may be as simple as a new valve cover seal. I doubt he has a catch can and that could have caused it.

 

OP, When you say there was oil on the driver's side plugs, was the oil on top of the plugs or in the cylinders on the tip?

If it was sitting on top of the plugs and not in the cylinders, it's the o-rings on the valve cover that seal around the spark plug holes. If this is the case, it shouldn't affect the way the car runs. You will need to get a new valve cover if this is the case.

 

Sad to say I don't know a lot about the build. I have an upgrated fuel pump, but no fuel pressure guage. Does that photo up top mean it is lean at idle?

The oil are on the plug part that screws in. I can post photo's tomorrow.

There are other codes I am throwing. EVAP system.

i should redo the fuel pump then? i was going to pay a delearship to look at it for me. a waste of my $? should i test the fuel pump?

 

Please just find a reputable shop that is near you and deals with aftermarket performance applications like this and and have them look at the car...

 

The shop that I used for years closed their doors. Thanks for yuor help!

 

any shop will have a fuel pressure gauge. DOesnt have to be a "tuner" shop

 

IF I wanted to test it out myself, how would I go upon doing so?

 

well you gotta buy a fuel pressure gauge and tap it into the fuel system.

you will probably need this part to have somewhere to tap in the sensor at the fuel rails
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idproduct=245

 

OP, do you still have the OEM cats? This sounds crazy, but check them... One or both might be blocked up... I was getting the misfire CEL, which was flashing, until I took off the driver's side cat and found that it was plugged up. the insides apparently went to the back and jammed up the opening, causing no exhaust flow down that side.

replaced with test pipes, problem instantly went away... Car wasn't in limp mode anymore, cleared the code, and has been driving fine all afternoon.

 

Really does sound like a clogged cat... if not, then fuel pressure problem.

 

I have the same issue as well. My light actually came on after i changed my oem sparkplugs to copper one step colder ngks. Some sites ive read said that the oem plugs are different. has platinum on both sides or something like that and that the plugs i replaced them with dont. so the computer reads misfires which from what ive read prob arent if there isnt a noticeable performance change. Im not sure what to do either. like i said, my light came on after the plug change, which is the only thing i did in that time period to cause the light to come on. my car was tuned like 4 days before i changed plugs. Im not a car or turbo guru, so i may be wrong. hopefully someone with more insight can help us. im prob going back to the tuner this week as well. maybe hell have an answer for me.