My ongoing APT TT smoking problems
I had the same smoking issue with my extreme kit i feel your pain, i eventually drilled and tapped higher up on the engine block for return lines and capping off the fittings on the oil pan.
1. no smoke on decels
2. no smoke on hard excel
3. no smoke cloud when car comes to a stop
4. you can run 6qrts after doing the oil drain relocation
You would not believe how sensative the APS kit is with oil levels, i also did couple of oil restictors for good measure.
Hope this helps.
1. no smoke on decels
2. no smoke on hard excel
3. no smoke cloud when car comes to a stop
4. you can run 6qrts after doing the oil drain relocation
You would not believe how sensative the APS kit is with oil levels, i also did couple of oil restictors for good measure.
Hope this helps.
I don't understand why the APS is so sensitive to oil levels and the JWT kit is not. My oil return is down in the spacer - surely that's below oil level. By the way my worst cylinder on a cold leakdown test is 11% now, and I have no smoking and no drop in power. I do have a little bit of oil consumption now that I didn't previously, but I can go 3k miles without having to add (1 qt). 20k miles on the built motor with continuous boosting.
In regards to checking the plenum - keep in mind that vacuum there is drawing off crankcase pressure and vapors (if you have the default set up), so it may be full of oil that gets sucked down on hard decel. You need to look inside. You need to take the plenum off to get to the rear valve cover port on the driver's side to put a breather filter on it anyway (5/8" nipple). Finally, make sure you have a check valve and are not relying on the PCV valve to keep boost out of the crankcase via the passenger side valve port nipple.
In regards to checking the plenum - keep in mind that vacuum there is drawing off crankcase pressure and vapors (if you have the default set up), so it may be full of oil that gets sucked down on hard decel. You need to look inside. You need to take the plenum off to get to the rear valve cover port on the driver's side to put a breather filter on it anyway (5/8" nipple). Finally, make sure you have a check valve and are not relying on the PCV valve to keep boost out of the crankcase via the passenger side valve port nipple.
Last edited by rcdash; Oct 9, 2010 at 05:43 AM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 58
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From: Beavercreek, Oh
I had very simular issues and slowmotion built my car. They were right in that the motor needed rebuilding. It took three leakdown test to find a difference in a cylinder...once we had the motor apart, i had two cracked pistons...very minor, right along the rings. Just enough to have blowby under pressure. My first issue was the turbo (turbonectics crappy model) then I swapped it out with a Garrett and didnt have any issues with the turbo anymore.
Corey knows what his is talking about as he has tuned several Gs and Zs...including building a 750whp built motor TT G.
and to address the issues about boost. I am only running 5.5lbs and I have simular numbers. My turbo is larger and with the stage 5 lightweight internals, its spools faster than the old one creating more responsive boost faster.
I went through 6 months of thinking it was the turbo (which part of the problem was) and then finally finding the cracked pistons. Mine smoked a little, then a lot simular to how you described. I hate to say, but it is possible that you have a cracked piston as well causing blowby under pressure only...
Hope you find out your issues. good luck
Corey knows what his is talking about as he has tuned several Gs and Zs...including building a 750whp built motor TT G.
and to address the issues about boost. I am only running 5.5lbs and I have simular numbers. My turbo is larger and with the stage 5 lightweight internals, its spools faster than the old one creating more responsive boost faster.
I went through 6 months of thinking it was the turbo (which part of the problem was) and then finally finding the cracked pistons. Mine smoked a little, then a lot simular to how you described. I hate to say, but it is possible that you have a cracked piston as well causing blowby under pressure only...
Hope you find out your issues. good luck
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
From: Beavercreek, Oh
also what were your leakdown and compression numbers? like i said previously my worst cylinder was 9% and the compression was good and even across the board.
i really wish you could see what my car is doing and compare it to what yours was doing. it never smokes when cold, only when ive been in boost a little. it will ALWAYS do it if ive been in boost heavily and will smoke a TON. no smoke when driving except a small puff when shifting or on decel. will mostly smoke when i come to a stop.
if it was a ring problem though would there have been oil on the plugs? cause they were dry. thats what i dont get. the turbos were dry as a bone too. pretty much no sign of oil anywhere.
i think ill try looking in the mainfold for oil and doing the pvc fix like someone else suggested. its never smoked this much so something has to have changed in the last few months.
i really wish you could see what my car is doing and compare it to what yours was doing. it never smokes when cold, only when ive been in boost a little. it will ALWAYS do it if ive been in boost heavily and will smoke a TON. no smoke when driving except a small puff when shifting or on decel. will mostly smoke when i come to a stop.
if it was a ring problem though would there have been oil on the plugs? cause they were dry. thats what i dont get. the turbos were dry as a bone too. pretty much no sign of oil anywhere.
i think ill try looking in the mainfold for oil and doing the pvc fix like someone else suggested. its never smoked this much so something has to have changed in the last few months.
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