Rauly04

iTrader: (2)

Hi everyone. My engine recently started nocking, I'm assuming that was do to the fact that it was running 12.5-8 a/f ratio. It had been force induction with a greddy kit for over 30k miles. I'll be posting pics later including the pieces of bearings that I found after removing oil pan to double check. Well anyways the reason for this post is to hopefully get some good advice before I go ahead and start spending a whole bunch of money although I have my mind pretty set on..

-IPP Short Block Stage 1
ARP Main
HR HG
L19 headstuds
-800cc DW
-AAM stage1 fuel return
-JWT Oil pan spacer
-Retune with osires

suprasam

if your building now and can afford it, get fuel return and cams. I think for your goals fuel return is a must anyway, and the cams well help you with power throughout the powerband!!! Good luck! Lot of good builds on these forums making your goal in power. check them out!

Cass007

iTrader: (34)

Get the DW injectors, they are worth it IMO.

Make sure you check your turbos and have the heads fully disassembled and cleaned as well as all the oil lines and the timing chains. Get a new oil pump as well. Trust me on this, by the time you hear that you have spun a bearing its already worked the debris all through the motor.

Hopefully you caught it before it shredded into the block bearing surface and it damaging the crank. I lost a few complete setups this way. Not trying to be a downer, just want you to be prepared for the worst if that is the case.

Alberto

iTrader: (14)

You absolutely need a fuel system. And do some BC 2 or 3 cams. That along with a good exhaust, and a tune will easily get you 600whp on pump gas with a great powerband.

Rauly04

iTrader: (2)

<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/eCGgyr9pEjRnelgYoSf9MR_Q5IvMgqA1H3HgRnkR0Z0?feat=embedwebsit e"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_7FibUD1XMI4/TMezrlrUDtI/AAAAAAAAAHM/AU7Ng0JPzeI/s144/IMG_0703.JPG" height="107" width="144" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/Rauly04/350zBuild?authkey=Gv1sRgCJDi84um4ZmZVg&feat=embedwebsite">35 0z Build</a></td></tr></table>
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Close up of metal shavings..

Rauly04

iTrader: (2)

I would love to be able to do it all now but cams may have to wait since my budget doesn't really allow me. I know u have gotten crazy power out of this kit. Would you say cams are a most? by a fuel system what do mean just bigger injectors and return?

Rauly04

iTrader: (2)

Guys another quick question this car is my daily driver that is partially why i don't want to push it to its limits. What are the life expectancy of built motors?

Cass007

iTrader: (34)

Anywhere between one dyno pull and 5 months based on my experience

NNOCENT

iTrader: (7)

OHHHH JESUS... YOU BETTER WATCH THIS VIDEO SON...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t6bAZ...layer_embedded

ITOzann

iTrader: (30)

^ lolz

twitch579

iTrader: (3)

I would look on Tamparacing.com and find a beater S14 for $1000 Raul. If you got the engine apart theres no sense in putting it back together without doing it right. It will take more time and money but in the long run it will be well worth it. Any way you look at it, its going to be expensive to go fast.

Cams, RFS, A used NON-Grinding CD009 Tranny. And the motor built or not is only as stong as its tune. If its tuned to 12.5-13.0 again it will just do the same thing. Detonation is very hard on any parts. Hey by the time your done putting yours back together, mine will probably be toast too.

Rauly04

iTrader: (2)

THanks for the remarks.. Really funny had already seen the video though. I was actually looking for input of people have had build engines and have messed them up or things that have gone wrong, don't want to make the same mistakes. Anyways I though the main purpose of the forums is to share information.

NNOCENT

iTrader: (7)

it is for sure.

my personal opinion (shared by many and disgreed with by many)

never boost your daily driver.

anytime you add boost, expect **** to cost twice as much as you are anticipating.

dont buy cheap parts the first time, they will break and you will need to buy the QUALITY parts again. why pay twice, buy QUALITY the first time.

read every thread in this forum.

i've heard VERY good things about the IPP S1 shortblock, but i have no first hand experience. a local guy in our chapter has making ~520 crank hp on a STOCK BLOCK so building is it always necessary, but recommended.

ask any more questions, this firm is to help you.

we will, however, flame you for asking stupid questions

go-fast

0jiggy0

iTrader: (13)

Im amazed you lasted that long on that AF ratio.

Rauly04

iTrader: (2)

Well I got it tune at S&R (not blaming anyone) recently that's when it started running 12.5 on spring pressure, then i added a boost controller and put it up to 7psi i knew i was pushing it but it was taking the beat just fine so i got confident. I'm sure it would've lasted much longer to. but the night it started nocking we were messing around for a while over the bridge but it's whatever now i have a new opportunity to rebuild.

Rauly04

iTrader: (2)

Update finish tearing down the engine.. Here are some pics, can't really see any obvious damage. Hoping for no major damage..

<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/g99Py3YxfsphYBlb7JaHPR_Q5IvMgqA1H3HgRnkR0Z0?feat=embedwebsit e"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_7FibUD1XMI4/TMsNPbMmWZI/AAAAAAAAAHs/Lr7zdQM-5go/s800/IMG_0764.JPG" height="597" width="800" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/Rauly04/350zBuild?authkey=Gv1sRgCJDi84um4ZmZVg&feat=embedwebsite">35 0z Build</a></td></tr></table>

<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/chokqKBBXMf7U3xs-hgi-x_Q5IvMgqA1H3HgRnkR0Z0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_7FibUD1XMI4/TMsNP-9wKTI/AAAAAAAAAHw/ewWbymaf8ws/s800/IMG_0760.JPG" height="597" width="800" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/Rauly04/350zBuild?authkey=Gv1sRgCJDi84um4ZmZVg&feat=embedwebsite">35 0z Build</a></td></tr></table>

upgrade on build going with
800cc dw
aam stage 1 fuel return
jwt c2 cams ( what do you guys think of this cams?)
Jwt oil pan spacer

Cass007

iTrader: (34)

You haven't gotten down to see the damage yet. Remove the pistons and take some pics of the sides of them and the insides of the cylinder walls too. I am an expert at this by now and will have a desent idea if they are still good or not. Also, you need to see where the crank and mains are damaged, this will determine if the block is scrap - I have 4 of these in my shed

Finally, take some pics of the the cams where the cam caps go over them and of the inside of the caps themselves. Also, spin the turbos (oil and water cooled?) and see if they have and shaft play or even the slightest grinding as they come to a complete stop. If you see anything that looks like stripper glitter anywhere in the top end (heads), then its possible that everything is done.

str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

well do you want 500 or 700whp. if 500, thats fine, if 700 you need to change the fuel system and cams.

Rauly04

iTrader: (2)

I'm done dissembling lol.. I'm let kyle from IPP take from here hopefully there is minimum damage and I can get most of the core charge back.

As far as the turbos go I checked them for shaft play there is some play however is normal for journal bearing to have some play. I'm having LHT performance double check them just to be sure.

I'll happy with 500whp for now but don't want to be limited or have to take the engine apart so the only thing i would need to make 650 whp is prob another fuel pump.