Compression ratio with vortech question??
While I DID have a quite a few problem threads, who says I did nothing to fix them?
I had spark blow out which I fixed. Low power in the beginning which I figured out what it was ( for the most part ). I eventually had the faint knocking, but I simply couldn't do anything about it without tearing down the motor, so I ignored it. My engine blew, but as I said earlier I'm not the first to blow an engine with a Vortech. This is also the first engine I blow EVER ( I've owned a few turbo cars and have built others ). I'm not completely clueless. I'm just kinda new to the VQ.
As for the broken crank shaft...I have no idea how I did that...lol.
All I saying is that anyone willing to go into the 400whp range on a stock engine should be ready for anything.
I had spark blow out which I fixed. Low power in the beginning which I figured out what it was ( for the most part ). I eventually had the faint knocking, but I simply couldn't do anything about it without tearing down the motor, so I ignored it. My engine blew, but as I said earlier I'm not the first to blow an engine with a Vortech. This is also the first engine I blow EVER ( I've owned a few turbo cars and have built others ). I'm not completely clueless. I'm just kinda new to the VQ.
As for the broken crank shaft...I have no idea how I did that...lol.
All I saying is that anyone willing to go into the 400whp range on a stock engine should be ready for anything.
I disassembled both my G engine and my pathfinder engine yesterday at the same time. The problem is that I placed all the main caps together from both engines and now I have no idea which cap is from what block.
Does it really even matter as long as it goes in smoothly and the crank spins smoothly? The FSM says that the cap is machined at the same time the block is and that it cannot be replaced as a single part.
Thoughts? I haven't thrown away any of the caps, but I just need to know how to tell one from the other.
Does it really even matter as long as it goes in smoothly and the crank spins smoothly? The FSM says that the cap is machined at the same time the block is and that it cannot be replaced as a single part.
Thoughts? I haven't thrown away any of the caps, but I just need to know how to tell one from the other.
I'm not saying your clueless, but look how you are starting your Build....
Mixing up the Mains from two different motors, anyone doing that should not be building a Hi performance motor.
Asking: "Does it really even matter if I mix them up?" If you don't know the answer then you missed Engine Building 101.
GT-ER, What is platiguage? can you answer that off the top of your head with out searching on the net?
I wish you the very best with you build, and that you get lots of miles out of it!
I'm not saying your clueless, but look how you are starting your Build....
Mixing up the Mains from two different motors, anyone doing that should not be building a Hi performance motor.
Asking: "Does it really even matter if I mix them up?" If you don't know the answer then you missed Engine Building 101.
GT-ER, What is platiguage? can you answer that off the top of your head with out searching on the net?
I wish you the very best with you build, and that you get lots of miles out of it!
Mixing up the Mains from two different motors, anyone doing that should not be building a Hi performance motor.
Asking: "Does it really even matter if I mix them up?" If you don't know the answer then you missed Engine Building 101.
GT-ER, What is platiguage? can you answer that off the top of your head with out searching on the net?
I wish you the very best with you build, and that you get lots of miles out of it!
I'll tell you something, I've built 5 engines before ( all that have gone over 400whp ) and all of them have come out perfectly and I did not use any kinda of gauges to do it. No feeler, plasti nor micrometer...I just made sure everything would spin smoothly when I torqued it all down and off I went.
The difference with this motor is that, compared to the others, it's a HUGE pain in the *** to remove from the car and has variable valve timing and stuff like that which is new to me. I would personally just slap everything together like I've done before in the past ( and on most parts I will do just that ) but I really don't want to have to remove my engine again so this time I'm trying to be more cautious. It would be the first time I ever build an engine and actually care for any type of measurments...lol.
I'm definitely not a pro builder, nor do I care to be one. I already have a job that has nothing to do with this. But I have to admit that while I KNOW what a plastigauge is...I've never used one. I've used micrometers and feeler gauges though.
As for saying "anyone doing that should not be building a Hi performance motor". Can you tell me that all pro engine builders did not make stupid mistakes when they began building hi performance engines? I have a friend that once put his pistons on backwards ( not a VQ ) and the skirts destroyed the oil squirters. Pretty dumb on his behalf, but he's also the same person that built his very own 600whp VW GTI and built an 800AWHP EVO.
People afraid to learn is the reason why this forum has so few members building their own engine and so many people dumping $15K into their 500whp setups.
The day I give up on building my own setups is the day I'll stop modifying cars in general.
Last edited by GT-ER; Nov 9, 2010 at 03:03 PM.
Hay GT-ER,
I applaud you for doing all of your own work, I try do the same. It's more fun that way.
To many times on my350z people say " I'll have to take it to my tuner" or "I'll have to ask my tuner about that." A lot of people on here can't wipe their own ***. But on the other hand, a lot of very smart people here too, and a few of them are trying to help you do it Right.......Like "Quaman" listen to him... there is a lot to be said about he's work just by seeing the pic's.
Back in the day (1960's) we would setup are Mains loose for Drag racing (.0030"-.0035") I don't know what they do these days. A street motor would be much less, but regardless I would like to see no more than .0002" difference between mains. The only way I know how to do that is with plastigauge. Same with Rods.
I applaud you for doing all of your own work, I try do the same. It's more fun that way.
To many times on my350z people say " I'll have to take it to my tuner" or "I'll have to ask my tuner about that." A lot of people on here can't wipe their own ***. But on the other hand, a lot of very smart people here too, and a few of them are trying to help you do it Right.......Like "Quaman" listen to him... there is a lot to be said about he's work just by seeing the pic's.
Back in the day (1960's) we would setup are Mains loose for Drag racing (.0030"-.0035") I don't know what they do these days. A street motor would be much less, but regardless I would like to see no more than .0002" difference between mains. The only way I know how to do that is with plastigauge. Same with Rods.
Last edited by OldManZ350; Nov 9, 2010 at 04:20 PM.
Hay GT-ER,
I applaud you for doing all of your own work, I try do the same. It's more fun that way.
To many times on my350z people say " I'll have to take it to my tuner" or "I'll have to ask my tuner about that." A lot of people on here can't wipe their own ***. But on the other hand, a lot of very smart people here too, and a few of them are trying to help you do it Right.......Like "Quaman" listen to him... there is a lot to be said about he's work just by seeing the pic's.
Back in the day (1960's) we would setup are Mains loose for Drag racing (.0030"-.0035") I don't know what they do these days. A street motor would be much less, but regardless I would like to see no more than .0002" difference between mains. The only way I know how to do that is with plastigauge. Same with Rods.
I applaud you for doing all of your own work, I try do the same. It's more fun that way.
To many times on my350z people say " I'll have to take it to my tuner" or "I'll have to ask my tuner about that." A lot of people on here can't wipe their own ***. But on the other hand, a lot of very smart people here too, and a few of them are trying to help you do it Right.......Like "Quaman" listen to him... there is a lot to be said about he's work just by seeing the pic's.
Back in the day (1960's) we would setup are Mains loose for Drag racing (.0030"-.0035") I don't know what they do these days. A street motor would be much less, but regardless I would like to see no more than .0002" difference between mains. The only way I know how to do that is with plastigauge. Same with Rods.
plastigauge is pretty cheap and easy so I can do that. But following the service manual to every little bit of detail regarding the specs and what not on the engine is overwhelming. I've mostly built modern VW and GM engines and their service manuals are also overwhelming when it comes to measuring things and what not...but I never did that...LOL. I don't need my engines to last 250K miles like an oem one does. I'll be stupid happy if it even touches 100K..lol.
Anyways, for everyone who said that it's USELESS to build your engine for 400+whp. It's only useless if you could care less what happens to it. If breaking the engine will make you go bankrupt and cause you to think about suicide...build the engine before hand.
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