Multiple missfire
I have an 03 forced induction Z throwing a multiple missfire code. I changed the plugs, and it is still growing the code. I am also running rich. My mpg is at 13. Help, please.
I got this code last time I changed a knock sensor and spark plugs... It as no link with these and actually it was the intake manifold that cracked when I loosened the nut.
It was running rich as sh*t and was idling pretty rough...
Hope it can help you out!
It was running rich as sh*t and was idling pretty rough...
Hope it can help you out!
OP: since you have an fcon you're going to have to contact a tuner to adjust your box. It's locked for end users.
The misfire is probably do to the rich condition although 13mpg sounds about normal for a boosted car if someone frequently gets on it. hell, OEM city mileage is only in the high teens anyways. Add boosted city mileage and 13 is probably about right.
If it IS running rich that would flood the plugs and cause a misfire. when you took the old plugs out did you look at them to see if one of them wasn't firing? I always take them out, mark the cylinder numbers on them and make sure to hang on to them to check.
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It blinks because you have misfires. If it blinks that means it's bad. When it flashes that is a "stop doing what you're doing light"
You could have a million things wrong, spark blowout, bad coil pack, bad wire connection somewhere, too rich flooding the plugs. Those would all cause a misfire.
take it to dreyer and reinbold and have them look at it. There isn't an fcon tuner in a long way so you're kind of screwed on having someone adjust the EMS to lean it out again.
Did you say there's oil on two of the plugs? If this is oil on the firing side that's not so good. How often do you have to put oil in it? Also did you recently change something, either on or off the car? When you get a chance try a compression check, I'm thinking the oily cylinders will be fairly low, if there's oil in the combustion chamber.
Also a quick test to find out which cylinders are the problem is to load/power balance the car. This is done by removing the coil leads one at a time to see which one causes the engine RPM to drop at idle (After you remove the lead to test put it back on the coil before moving to the next). The leads that cause a noticable drop, ideally are working well those that barely drop are probably the problem.
Also a quick test to find out which cylinders are the problem is to load/power balance the car. This is done by removing the coil leads one at a time to see which one causes the engine RPM to drop at idle (After you remove the lead to test put it back on the coil before moving to the next). The leads that cause a noticable drop, ideally are working well those that barely drop are probably the problem.
Last edited by Zazz93; Nov 10, 2010 at 02:00 PM.
Jeff if there is oil on the plug, he will need a new valve cover the seal around the spark plug tube is not replaceable. If it was leaking out of the valve cover he could replace the valve cover seal.
What codes is it throwing? p0300?
What codes is it throwing? p0300?
It flashed back in March, then stopped, then flashed again June and stopped... Then again recently... Won't hit boost. I took it to a shop today, just don't want to be taken advantage of...
won't hit boost meaning you floor it and boost doesn't build? that means something is really f'ed.
also, i'm going to say it's not oil on the firing side of the plug. Everyone that says "my plugs have oil on them" mean when they take the plug wires out and there is oil down in there. Except if they are a mechanic, then they know the difference.
also, i'm going to say it's not oil on the firing side of the plug. Everyone that says "my plugs have oil on them" mean when they take the plug wires out and there is oil down in there. Except if they are a mechanic, then they know the difference.
Just went through a bunch of this stuff my self. Then car would idle fine but die when I gave it gas. Finally tracked it down to a faulty maf sensor. Problem solved. This was on a boosted 03 G35.
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