VQ35deMax

iTrader: (6)

+1 for the effort/ideas/creativity even though some things can be simplified.

str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

1" would still clear, but no strut bars. We already have to raise the plenum 1/2" to run standard 60mm injectors.

I use twin PTE 6262's
Those turbos would be fine if you wanted to max out at like 450 hp. Kinda like the PE kit but smaller.
For the return, you need to send the oil to a collection sump and then pump from there.

str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

1" would still clear, but no strut bars. We already have to raise the plenum 1/2" to run standard 60mm injectors.

I use twin PTE 6262's, definitely not representative of typical VQ owners though. They are wayy too big for street use.
Those turbos would be fine if you wanted to max out at like 450 hp. Kinda like the PE kit but smaller.
For the return, you need to send the oil to a collection sump and then pump from there back to an oil pan spacer like was mentioned above.

kacz07

iTrader: (15)

In for pics and dynos.

midz350

iTrader: (4)

^+1

roger22

iTrader: (1)

Jesus take the wheel

Sylvan Lake V35

iTrader: (23)

Looks like a legit shop!!!


http://www.jattus.com/Performance/home.html


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go-fast

if you mounted the turbo's on the roof you wouldn't have to worry about the scavenge pump,it would also open up some space for the air to water cooler.

350Z400rwhp

iTrader: (4)

Wow some of you guys are really being D*cks. So yea there are some better ways he could do the fuel system and the air to water intercooler is not the norm but he isn't an idiot. Help the guy out and give him advice, not ghay *** comments. I've seen it happen more than once on here where some guy comes up with some ideas and goals and people call it a dream build and then we are all shocked when it actually turns out pretty cool. Sure there have been a lot of BS threads and noobs lately but I'm betting this guy is really going to build this kit so let's help him out.

go-fast

who are you,the nice police?i'm sick of this pc crap,i'll flame whoever i want,whenever i want.as far as i'm concerned i'm helping him out by informing him he's a dumbazz and needs to rethink his plan.if you want to placate him and blow sunshine up his azz with an obvious fail go ahead......i have other plans

binder

iTrader: (8)

just buy a kit. 400hp is easy to achieve and a hell of a lot cheaper with a kit. You are wasting your time doing all this extra fab.

also, my air to air cooler is .5psi drop. Not much drop at all. Air to water are only good for drag racing where the intake temps need to be less than ambient and the engine won't be run for long periods. At that point you can use ice water in them. Not idea for street use.

bad thing about 7th injector for our cars is the fact that not all cylinders receive the same airflow. The front 2 cylinders are starved for air which also means they would be starved for fuel with that setup.

why the crappy mitsu 16g turbos? You are also worried about spool up and you are using 2 tiny turbos. They'll spool at 2500rpm or sooner which you should never be at when racing anyways. It will also increase your cost to have 2 turbos verses 1.

about the oil supply. a 3an braided line with no restrictors will work well. 4an line will require some restrictors. I also use the exa pump. sweet unit and very durable. I think Turbowerks makes it.

2.25" intake for the turbo is too small. Run 3" because you don't want any restriction on the inlet side. Also, why slowly step up your piping size? why not just run 2.5" throughout or even 2.75" throughout if that's what you are going to end up with final pipe size. I could maybe see smaller between turbo to intercooler if space was tight.

Jattus

Thanks for the response!
I'm building a kit, so buying one is obviously out of the question lol.
In my opinion the water/air are great for street use. A properly setup system will out perform an air/air no problem. Less volume of air to fill, quicker spool up. Less pressure drop, increased thermal conductivity. Heat soak is no problem if its set up right. Look at the bugatti veyron, lots of super cars use water/air intercoolers.

As far as the 7th injector goes, it doesn't matter if cylinders are starved, they still receive their proportion. Your making the proper air/fuel mixture, if you have a cylinder that sucks in double the air, its still at the correct ratio. Granted fuel doesn't flow as perfectly as air does so its off a tad, but its literally just a tad and works great to around 12psi or so.

I looked over the compressor maps of the td05-big16g's and they are perfect! Picture a 1.75L engine with a single td05-big16g (half our engine, half of the turbo). That would be considered a large turbo for that application, and can flow well over the CFM's to easily blow the engine. Sure I could put bigger turbos on, and have more air flow that is unusable, as well as increase in turbo lag for no reason. This system will be very responsive IMO, especially paired up with the water/air system. Also, smaller turbos are more efficient than larger turbos. So if you have the choice of one large turbo over two smaller turbos, opt for the two smaller ones. (straight out of maximum boost actually). But yes you are correct, the cost will be increased.

Those turbos are also water cooled which is a bonus. So you don't have to sit there and have your car idling for several minutes before you turn it off, with water cooled turbos you can shut it right off just like IMO you should be able to do anyways.

Ok I did read someone using -4an to split -3an with no problems. Are you sure -4an to split -4an will not work?
I did check out the terbowerx pump that does look like a nice unit, I'm most likely going to go with that one.

I agree with you on the intake and charge pipe size. The only reason why I'm going with those sizes is because the pipes have to come up along side the engine (similar to a couple companies turbo kits out there) and its very cramped. But 2" pipe for a 1.75l paired with big16g is a good size charge pipe. You can even go with 1.75". Lots of people always think bigger is better, but in this case its just going to give you more turbo lag w/ more volume of air to fill.

Thanks again!

binder

iTrader: (8)

Why is buying one obviously out of the question? Your list of stuff looks like it will cost more than an already built kit. The build quality (no offense to you but you don't sound like a machinist or engineer) will be better with a pre-built kit also. Why piece something together you "hope" to work for more money when you could put something on that's tried and true by people that have experience with turbocharging our engines?

You keep saying better thermal conductivity but i'm not seeing numbers. Show me numbers. Also show me a water intercooler that has less than .5psi drop. Also, what are you running the water through to cool it down? If you are pumping it through the engine then it will be hotter than ambient. If it's just circulated into another radiator then it wouldn't be ideal for street because as much heat as water absorbs it will take just as long for it to release that heat so once the water has heated up super hot from running it a lot then it will actually keep the intake temps high from heat soak. bugatti has much more engineering and is a factory car. They are designed also to meet emissions requirements and many more things than straight performance like what you are going for.

They won't be getting the same fuel. The plenum design is enough to notice the lean condition on a dyno so you add boost to that situation and it's not good. You'll have rearward cylinders throwing out richer exhaust so when they pool together you'll have a mixture of too lean in front and too rich in rear. Why not adjust the fuel at the fuel injector level so it's constant? If you are going for performance and wanting this car to spool at 2k or whatever then why wouldn't you want to do the best for your fuel system?

edit: calculated wrong turbo on the flow chart

water cooled or oil cooled, you can't boost a car and shut it off. Water will buffer and allow you to shut the car off with a turbo that is warmer than an oil cooled, but you still can't go racing around and pull right in and shut it down. The water will boil and still cause problems. I run journal bearing oil cooled and i have never had problems. I just don't boost and park it. I cruise around normally and then shut my car right off. At normal cruise temps it won't hurt the turbo to shut it right down on either type. Water does provide more cooling so in that aspect it's considered superior but the reason for shut down purposes has nothing to do with it.

Rich is using a 4an to 3an. Your turbo won't need that much oil and will require an oil restrictor if you run a 4an line. So you can either run 3 an lines to the turbos or you can run 4an lines with a restrictor. Since you are claiming to make this as simple as possible the 3an line would be the smartest choice.

It's cramped but i have 2.75" piping run through there so it's doable. I'm curious how soon you are wanting this thing to spool since you keep worrying about tiny things that won't affect spool enough to feel it or maybe not even notice it on a dyno graph. I guess i'm confused why people that want to make their car faster all over want it to full boost at 3k rpms or even lower. I've never raced at 3k rpms. I launch above 3500 rpms and when i shift it stays up around 5500 rpms at the furthest drop in rpm so making spool any lower than what the car never sees after launch is pointless to my race. Now if you are talking about a diesel that is pulling a huge trailer or a small daily driver that uses a turbo to get more than 100hp out of a 1.5 litre engine then i understand but i don't think that's why you are doing it.

Z PHAT Z

iTrader: (46)

This will put an end to this. I gave up just reading the first 2 paragraphs LOL

binder

iTrader: (8)

i'm not hating, i'm just pointing out facts. I'll answer them with legit answers then question why a certain route was taken when the reason being taken is bogus.

The reasons just don't add up. Spend the extra money on turbos and making it sound like this is some advanced setup but skimping on all the supplemental parts (fuel system, etc) that an FI system needs to produce results.

Sylvan Lake V35

iTrader: (23)

Easy Jeff he is very sensitive, he likes it if your constructive with him

Jattus

Would you prefer for people to cramp up your thread with a bunch of B.S. when your trying to get something useful out of it? Yeah didn't think so lol

Water to air intercoolers generally have a pressure drop of less then 0.1psi.
They have a separate system with its own water reservoir, heat exchanger, and pump. You would never want to connect it to your engines water system.

And like we were talking about below with the sub injector plate.... not a bad idea either if the 7th injector would not work. I'm not saying that the 7th injector idea is better than controlling at OEM injector location, but why if its not necessary is the point.

It is also nice that the turbos are in cool locations, I don't think heat will ever be a problem there either. And it looks like -3AN all the way would be the best bet.

Your referring to engine performance as just in drag racing, and power at the end of the RPM band. I'm just considering other factors as well, for example lots of people consider engine performance to be more along the lines of responsiveness, and for auto-x you may want fast spool but less top end....
Having a setup that spools the most absolute quickest is not exactly the goal either, was just discussing points is all.

go-fast

your design will cost more and perform less than other kits already available,you have overly complex air charge cooling and a fickle/complicated oil control system for turbos that are too small for this motor.plus you have a "cheap" way to fuel your kit.cheap parts up front cost your customers a motor down the road.do you really think "just a tad" is a marketing solution for starved front cylinders?

you cant polish a turd and your kit sounds like a turd.if you want to sell your kia style turbo kits to this forum your kidding yourself,maybe you should just move on to the next platform and sell your 7th injector with stand alone cooling to them.

btwy are you even a vendor on this forum?






you guys are treating him like joe blow trying to build a kit,when in reality he's a business breaking into the z/g market with this hacked up crap.g/l to all who entertain this nonsense.

Jattus

You obviously have not read the entire thread lol

Sylvan Lake V35

iTrader: (23)

Well said