Cookbot

It's my intention to buy an Aeromotive reg and all the associated pipes and fittings to make my own FRS. I'm just wondering is it necessary to have this bit that fits on the pump below?

or can you get a similar result from drilling out the original regulator and just dumping the returned fuel back into the tank like this one?

One guy has done this and blocked it off.



Could some one please enlighten me to the purpose of this part and what, if any work around are available?

Thanks, Cookie

eltness350

iTrader: (58)

i'm not sure but the fuel returns that our out there are pretty reasonable imo and you can find used ones even cheaper...bump for ya

Cookbot

The US prices for all car parts are very reasonable but over here in the Uk, we just get bummed! Even with importing it gets worse, add on shipping and our new 20% tax this January and it hurts!

Can't wait until I can move state side, Colorado takes my fancy!

Cookbot

This appears too random a question for an answer! Lol

str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

yes, just drill out that OEM regulator. That blue machined piece is just has a hole thru it. That way you dont have to destroy your stock FPR when using that CJM kit.

Honda2Nismo

On a side note, Colorado is awesome, you would enjoy it

phunk

iTrader: (21)

The gold part on the left in the 3rd picture is the stock fuel pressure regulator. If you are going with a RFS, and an aeromotive regulator, then you do not want to keep the stock regulator. So any discussion about modifying/drilling the stock regulator is completely irrelevent because you are going to have to get rid of it if you want an aeromotive regulator to do that job.

now... when it comes to getting rid of the regulator, there are 2 ways to do it.

in the last 2 pictures you posted, you can see that you can just simply plug it all up where it was. Those pictures you found are probably from 2003-2004. With all the R&D that has been done the last 7 years on the fuel system for this car... only someone that hasnt done their research would use a method like that.

While that solution works, be warned that you will only be able to use the fuel on the right hand side of the fuel tank. And that is if you can even find anyone still making a plug like that, because its, honestly, crap.

The first picture, that is what is required if you wish to properly convert to a return fuel system. It routes the return fuel through the original venturis that the stock regulator did, so that the in-tank siphon remains functionalm, as does the swirl jet that helps fill the canister, and you can use all the fuel in the tank, just like stock.

Look at step 2 in here; http://cj-motorsports.com/s1install.htm

So, the answer youre are looking for is.... you absolutely require that product to build a properly functioning RFS for this car.

phunk

iTrader: (21)

read the product description on the webpage where you got that photo:

"The stock regulator dumps into passages that feed these venturis return pressure. When you remove the stock regulator, you need this kit in order to continue feeding your return fuel into these venturis. There are 2 venturis. One of them is for the swirl pot function which reduces cavitation and promotes fuel entering the canister. The second venturi is even more important, as it is used to draw fuel over the middle of your split gas tank (over the driveshaft). Without using one of these kits in your RFS, you will not be able to access the driver side of your gas tank, and your vehicle will run out of fuel while the gauge is somewhere just below half tank!"

phunk

iTrader: (21)

not right... the blue part is required for proper RFS conversion. The stock regulator must be removed to convert to return fuel, and the blue part (return fuel correction kit) is absoutely required to maintain use of the 2 OEM venturis, without them, the fuel system will not properly work... the can wont fill properly and the pump will not be able to properly access the fuel on the left hand side of the tank.

accordfreak

iTrader: (15)

what happens if you leave the stock regulator and just use the intank pump as a feed pump for your surge/swirl tank? It should work like stock right?

phunk

iTrader: (21)

Surge tanks need an overflow. The surge overflow needs to run to a return correction.

wizard

Cookbot,

I can help you with importing parts from the states, send me a pm...

str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

hmm, that blue part was just a free flow piece in place of the regulator on my setup. How is that different from a gutted regulator placed back in that position?

phunk

iTrader: (21)

Gutted regulator won't have a provision to hookup the return fuel line to, and it also won't block off the bleedoff in the fuel filter housing

str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

Good deal, wasnt questioning your design, just tryin to gather better understanding of the fuel system.