Blackstone labs
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From: terre haute, IN; STL, MO
Does anyone know if blackstone labs would be able to tell if the rod bearings and bottom end is still in good condition if the top end suffered oil starvation and a cam was spun in the journal?
I'm not sure if that can be determined without tearing down and gauging everything but it would be nice if it could. I would think the rod bearings are made out of a different material than the aluminum journals of the heads.
I'm not sure if that can be determined without tearing down and gauging everything but it would be nice if it could. I would think the rod bearings are made out of a different material than the aluminum journals of the heads.
Does anyone know if blackstone labs would be able to tell if the rod bearings and bottom end is still in good condition if the top end suffered oil starvation and a cam was spun in the journal?
I'm not sure if that can be determined without tearing down and gauging everything but it would be nice if it could. I would think the rod bearings are made out of a different material than the aluminum journals of the heads.
I'm not sure if that can be determined without tearing down and gauging everything but it would be nice if it could. I would think the rod bearings are made out of a different material than the aluminum journals of the heads.
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From: terre haute, IN; STL, MO
I was hoping just heads so i could swap them and keep my built block. I'm getting sick of tearing this block down.
idk, i have valve noise when above 2k rpms and my oil return line was damaged from the ice storm. Oil pressure light never came on but it's making funny noises. No knock though.
I was hoping just heads so i could swap them and keep my built block. I'm getting sick of tearing this block down.
I was hoping just heads so i could swap them and keep my built block. I'm getting sick of tearing this block down.
I had a very similar problem not too long ago. I started getting this random tapping and at first it was very faint sometimes not existent at idle but then progressively got louder, especially under decel in the midrange rpms. Long story short, i took it to my engine builder and he thinks that it is a lifter that went bad in the drivers side head. Although, he has yet to get it torn apart to confirm.
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ya, i'm going to pull the valve covers off and check. i don't care about the top end much cause i've changed heads before but i don't want to go through pulling the whole block down and rebuilding.
I had a very similar problem not too long ago. I started getting this random tapping and at first it was very faint sometimes not existent at idle but then progressively got louder, especially under decel in the midrange rpms. Long story short, i took it to my engine builder and he thinks that it is a lifter that went bad in the drivers side head. Although, he has yet to get it torn apart to confirm.
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Blackstone can tell you those things.
Ive had numerous reports of extra "xxx" (sorry the name of that metal skips my mind atm) found in my oil thought to come from rod bearings or improperly cleaned and then assembled engine.
They have also been good at tracing coolant in the oil and warned my motor was damaged, then boom.
Worth the $15 bucks to send it out.
Ive had numerous reports of extra "xxx" (sorry the name of that metal skips my mind atm) found in my oil thought to come from rod bearings or improperly cleaned and then assembled engine.
They have also been good at tracing coolant in the oil and warned my motor was damaged, then boom.
Worth the $15 bucks to send it out.
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From: terre haute, IN; STL, MO
Mine was not constant at all, it would come and go. The only time it was really consistent was under decel at mid rpms, it would always do it then and be very loud. Under acceleration it would stop.
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From: terre haute, IN; STL, MO
it has nothing to do with the kit. Ditch the vortech and get the BP kit. It's amazing.
I drained the 1quart of oil left in the engine, repared the line and fired the car up. It had no noise and idled fine. I pulled it out of hte garage and my oil return pump wasn't running so i couldn't test drive it. I'm going to lift it up and fix that this weekend. I think the ice pulled apart that connector so i should just plug it back in.
THIS PROBLEM I'M HAVING IS IN NO WAY A PROBLEM WITH THE KIT. I'M 2" OFF THE GROUND AND HAD THE RETURN LINE ROUTED OTHER THAN THE WAY IT SAYS IN THE MANUAL. My kit is abnormal and a modified kit for some special needs i had. Due to that i routed things slightly different. Sasha had no part in me routing the return lines that way. Had it been routed like the manual says there is no way possible for that line to be damaged because it would be over the intake tubing.
The new line i routed in the stock location as per sasha's instructions.
I'm still going to send this oil out to blackstone but i'm almost certain what it's going to say because i can smell it. I'm probably going to put stock heads on and have Injected rebuild my short block. I should only need rod bearings and maybe some machining to my crank so it shouldn't be too bad.
I drained the 1quart of oil left in the engine, repared the line and fired the car up. It had no noise and idled fine. I pulled it out of hte garage and my oil return pump wasn't running so i couldn't test drive it. I'm going to lift it up and fix that this weekend. I think the ice pulled apart that connector so i should just plug it back in.
THIS PROBLEM I'M HAVING IS IN NO WAY A PROBLEM WITH THE KIT. I'M 2" OFF THE GROUND AND HAD THE RETURN LINE ROUTED OTHER THAN THE WAY IT SAYS IN THE MANUAL. My kit is abnormal and a modified kit for some special needs i had. Due to that i routed things slightly different. Sasha had no part in me routing the return lines that way. Had it been routed like the manual says there is no way possible for that line to be damaged because it would be over the intake tubing.
The new line i routed in the stock location as per sasha's instructions.
I'm still going to send this oil out to blackstone but i'm almost certain what it's going to say because i can smell it. I'm probably going to put stock heads on and have Injected rebuild my short block. I should only need rod bearings and maybe some machining to my crank so it shouldn't be too bad.
Sorry i was in no way trying to imply that it was result of a problem with the BP kit. I simply ment that i was excited to see what kind of power you were going to put down and the capabilities of the 6765 on our motors.
That sucks about what happend tho, wish you the best of luck!
That sucks about what happend tho, wish you the best of luck!
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From: terre haute, IN; STL, MO
Sorry i was in no way trying to imply that it was result of a problem with the BP kit. I simply ment that i was excited to see what kind of power you were going to put down and the capabilities of the 6765 on our motors.
That sucks about what happend tho, wish you the best of luck!
That sucks about what happend tho, wish you the best of luck!
I did 463 on hal's DD at 13psi on pump. He did a pull up to 17psi to set some safe timing but we couldn't get an accurate read on it because my drag radials were screwing up the dyno. The car was making about 21hp per psi and this was on the .68 a/r. I moved up to the .81 a/r exhaust side for more flow so i'm sure on 13psi it was up at 500hp and well over that when i ran it at 16psi with low timing. I was supposed to head back down with street tires so we could dyno it higher but obviously i'll have to fix the car before i go back now.
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