Ok So after countless hours of work on the twin turbo installed. Taking them off was quick and easy. Damned myself i have taken them off so many times due to fitting issues and the guy had flipped the turbos around ending up with fitting issues and me find out he had done so wrong blah blah blah, etc lol. After finding out the turbo seals were blown and one of them needing a new turbine wheel from Japan. I Finally got the turbos back las week from Boostlab. They were super quick even though a new turbine wheel had to be shipped overnight from Mitsubishi in Japan. Turbos were rebuilt with OEM Mitsubishi parts and a 1 year warranty as well. All i can say so far is i am super impresed with their quality of work. I got a couple pictures from them to show the amount of heat marks the turbos had from oil starvation and been beat on and not letting it cool off properly or running dirty/old oil for a long period of time. Who knows what the lying owner did to them but told me they were fine. I should have known better on my side but anyways long story short below you got the pictures of before, during the storm and after and a quick Video a friend did for me ..





and comparison pics of when it was rebuilt...






A quick picture when i received it last week. I thought i had received new turbos instead of my old ones for a moment haha. $hits even smelled new!!!


Also a video of my first start up this weekend and me looking around for leaks...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iLc0yMdixJs

Next Day i took her for a spin to test out and see the rights and wrongs. No oil leaks no nothing. So i was very happy.

I decided to change my exhaust around. i Gave my single to my friend Edd (edd2406) or something like that here on the thread and decided to use the knock off hks exhaust not the XO2 but some unknown brand for now until my AAM 3" True Dual comes in and also switch out my upper plenum and spacer with his Ceramic Crawford plenum and damn, Boost was kicking in super hard and quicker, and all the sudden my Maf Plastic Piece of crap gives up on me(i guess too much airflow?) and the pipe disconnect almost putting the z on limp mode and the tire hits the hks Bov bending completely the nipple where the vacuum line hooks up too. I was so pissed it wasnt even funny. After that the plastic MAF plastic whatever it is was not holding up right and it was such a pitta to get home that night because i had to stop every other block to hook it up and tighten it up again. Got home safe. put the car in the garage and got it all worked out this evening.

I ordered a new Tial Bov since the hks went to hell, thinking about getting another HKS bov just in case so i can have a backup one.

Got an idle issue where it hits 500 to 1000rpms when the car is fully warmed up and then all the sudden it dies. I'm thinking the throttle body needs to relearn its idle again or the HPX Maf sensor somehow is not performing the way it is suppose too so tomorrow im gonna have a friend come over with a scan tool since the steps i have done to do the idle learning position hasn't work to get it fix and im going to change to the oem maf sensor see if that changes anything. If that doesn't work than i really gotta narrow it down because it wasn't doing this before.

 

looks great! glad mitsu did a good job on your rebuild! Must be awesome to have a garage to do all that.

 

Wow, good work Manny.

 

Having done it myself along with you guys, it feels so much better driving it, knowing how much work, blood, sweat and tears (eyes water when I yawn...i got tired a lot...lol) and I can enjoy it SO much more I feel.

 

Very nice, how much did the rebuild set you back? Glad you are getting all sorted out.

 

Did you just drop in a HPX PMAS and not tune it? Those read totally different from the stock MAF, you can't just drop them in a run without "tuning the maf"

 

I don't think i would trust a MBC on a stock block...

If you don't want to spend the $ on a good EBC then i would just stick to spring pressure for now...

 

manual boost controllers are more reliable than EBC's. no electronic parts to fail. you just start low boost and slowly raise it to where you want it.

Set and forget

 

Yeah, and IF they do fail, your back to spring pressure. An EBC fails, it could fail to putting full pressure to top port or no pressure to bottom port (aka infinite boost to turbos limit or boom, whichever hits first)

 

Thats why we use a boost guage.....so i thought.

 

Or overboost spark/fuel cut on a UTEC or standalone. Still wish uprev had something like that

 

By the way, the HPX MAF is NOT drop-in replacement, you will idle like **** and generally have tons of issues until you get a good uprev tune so they can adjust the MAF values.

 

very nice write-up...

I believe those are 38mm wastegates, not 44mm...

 

Thanks man. having a garage is very nice, specially here in CT where weather is horrible.

Thanks Andrew.

I know the Feeling

Thanks brother, Cost me a little over $1g to have them rebuilt and dont regret it. 1 year warranty and new turbos is perfect for me. The Boostlab in Tampa, FL did an awesome job for sure.

NO i had Jas at JDSMotoring do a tune on my ECU before anything. He added the injectors, MAF and couple other things to the tune and everything seems to work fine. I tried putting the OEM MAF today and that definitely did not go well. Car would not stay on, it barley turned on lol. Process of elimination working good. I think i have a vacum leak somewhere by the plenum. Going to trace the bastard tomorrow at my boys shop.

Definitely not about money, thats the last thing i care about. I just knew the the benefits of the MBC and decided to go with a Hallman, The z is going to be Drifted and nothing else. I dont really need to change boost or play with it too much. Set it at 9PSI and I'm good to go so the MBC will work for me

Exactly why i bought it for. 9 PSI and im good to go!

Yeah i know, but my ECU is tuned for it. I just thought maybe somehow it was giving me some issues but it seems to work fine. OEM definitley aint doing anything after the tune. It wont even turn on, and when it did it died asap. so back to HPX MAF and now back to the same.

Manny

 

Actually, no, it's not properly tuned for the HPX. there is alot of variation between any two HPX PMAS units mainly in the low load/idle, and it's well documented in the Uprev manual that the 'HPX' maf profile needs to be furthre modified for your particular MAF. The Uprev canned profile gets you close in higher loads, but is pretty off at idle. It took me 4 or 5 flashes AFTER loading the HPX profile until I could get my HPX to idle like stock and not dip/stall on decel/nuetral.

 

^^hmmm Thanks for the info... that might be the cause of my idle not being normal and stalling in neutral.

 

manual boost controllers are awesome. ...until you run into a cold night and its running 12psi. that's when a closed loop PID controller would be best. which ecu are you using for tuning? a closed loop boost control with over boost limiter cut would be optimum, but im uncertain of your ecu.

 

Have you not boostleak tested it? Usually thats the first thing you do after the install, especially before the tune.

I had a similar problem before i switched to Osiris, I cleaned my TB and it fixed the stalling problem but my idle was also to low.

For the time being run your AC and it will raise the idle enough to prevent most of the stalling.

 

^^Yeah we checked last night at my friends shop and there is no boostleak/vacuum leak anywhere.

I got my friend to hook up the computer to my car and at idle racing the RPMS up to 5000 the MAF wont read pass up to 1.5 so it stops at that. Also we look at my vehicle speed and it said 176mph when I am parked/neutral lol...

Now i am pretty sure it is the MAF not communicating with the Uprev Tune on the ECU because I press the gas and sometimes it picks up boost and i feel power but if i go WOT it kills power and my car goes no where. The MAF is not reading how much air is going in right and it closes my Throttle air valve or whatever it is not allowing enough air to go through. I could be wrong on this but i am certainly it is my MAF sensor, either faulty or not communicating right.


BTW the AC trick i tried the other day when it all started and that didn't do anything to it. I have a special luck that if Puzzy would be raining, i would get hit by a D1ck!. lol

 

Well guys after long days trying to figure out my stalling issue! Which both hpx maf sensors were not it. But rather running super rich was making the engine choke and dying at idle. So I bought a Utec for now and tuned it myself until I can make the trip to Jas and get her running on point at 10psi.

Right now she is running like a champ with no hiccups at 5psi, maybe a little richer than I would like it to be but not bad at all.

First victim 2010 m3 . From a dig. This babys 1st and 2nd gear is useless. Please not I have it set up for drifting so from a dig I'm at disadvantage but still on 3rd gear I was gone. I felt bad for a second.

Anyways the Z is running really good so far and I cannot wait to see what 10psi will put me at.

Hope to have dyno sheets and final tune before the month of April ends!


Mobile DroidX