i want to ask here because it seems all of the smarter gear heads are here with experience. Please don't flame. i just want some direct answers.

I want to get a built motor from IPP. Their stage one seems to be affordable.

http://www.importpartspro.com/st1vqloblni3.html

Wiseco Pistons .020 over
Eagle/SCAT H Beam Rods
ARP Rod Bolts
Block inspected and cleaned
Block redecked
Block Bored and Honed using a Torque Plate
Rotating assembly balanced
Crank magnafluxed and the journals micro-polished
New Moly coated Race Spec main bearings installed
New Moly coated Race Spec rod bearings installed
Block prepped and assembled
New OEM Head Gaskets
Heads inspected and cleaned
Heads redecked
Ported exhaust and intake runners
3 angle valve job
New OEM Valve stem seals installed
Valve Stem Heights set
Cold Clearance set for stock cams
Heads prepped and assembled
New OEM Rev-up Oil Pump






now onto the questions.


1. Are they respectable?

2. Should i expect good reliability with a built motor ?

3. Can this motor be driven fine with just an uprev tune after drop in? Will the power be jsut like stock when driven at WOT?

4. I want to get a little single turbo kit within a year after purchase of this motor and aiming for 450whp. Will this be ok with it?

5. Technically, doesn't this mean my motor is brand new with 0 miles? no fear of oil consumption or leaks?

thanks guys. any other quesitons, i will bump up the thread. thanks in advance.

 

Hope this helps some.

 

thanks for some of the answers. For question 3, i meant can i drive around the built motor alone with no F/I and it just feeling like when i bought the car stock. Will it run right just with the factory tune or will i need a custom tune ?

 

1. Yes, they are respectable.

2. Reliability depends on you. I had an IPP motor and I lost a rod bearing when I way over-reved the motor - I burried my tack doing a WOT shift when the rev limiter did not kick in. I fully admit that was my fault. str8dum1 lost an Eagle rod, though he was north of 800 whp on a DD dyno if I remember correctly. You will have way less than this hp level based on your post, and other than Str8dum1, I am aware of only one other supposed Eagle rod failure, but no specifics were given as to HP and tuning. I have never heard of an Eagle rod failing at your target HP level, and a lot of people are running Eagle rods.

For added strength, you could go with a billit girdle, which will prevent flexure in the block if you rev high. Billit main caps also will add strength, though at 450 HP they are probably overkill.

3. For your HP level, I think an UpRev tune will be fine. The Wiseco pistons are 8.8 compression ratio (CR), while stock CR is 10.3. For N/A, 10.3 is better. For FI, 8.8 gives you more head room. Below is the link to the graph for power loss vs. compression ratio on an N/A motor, but FI throws this off:

http://image.hotrod.com/f/editorials...nterprises.jpg

See posts 27-28 in this thread:

https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...hp-pics-2.html

4. That motor should be more than sufficient for 450 whp.

5. The motor should be better than brand new from the perspective of a high performance build. Oil consumption should not be a problem so long as the rings seat properly. There are a lot of different opinions on proper break in for built motors, but go with IPP's recomendation since it is their motor.

 

This may be a good way to go as well:

https://my350z.com/forum/engine/5107...ur-engine.html

 

thanks a lot TTg35fort, good explantions.

Yeah, of course everyone wants to go turbo. but like 95 percent of everyone, they procrastinate. i live a normal life and buying a built motor is one step closer of finishing my build. I dont' want the car running like poop if i have things that come up and have to hold off on the turbo kit.

thanks for that link boosted performance. i checked it out. been lazy to PM him exactly what his packages have to offer. will do it now.

 

I hope there good... I have read alot of good things about them. I just got my stage 2 long block back like 3 weeks ago. Doing the timing now. I do wish I would have upgraded a few things tho. I did do all the upgraded arp head bolts and main bolts. My plan is to be at 600rwhp. I'm going to make sure break in is properly done. I'm hoping and praying for a solid strong motor.

 

what do you mean you mean yo uare doing the timing now?

 

The long blocks only come with the block, heades, and all the internals. You have to swap all the timing and s**t to the new block. Yea they don't come with all of that together. It's not a huge deal tho.

 

Would that mean they have done essentially zero testing since it cannot even turn over properly or hold compression?

Is this 'normal' for a built longblock? Makes sense on a shortblock...but longblock, really?

 

kyle is the man

 

I have heard that he uses cheap bearings, you may want to check on the brand/quality of them. I can't speak for the quality of the machining/work but you may want to watch the quality of the parts.

Even for your relatively low power goal i wouldn't put an OE DE HG in it, you atleast need to do an HR headgasket with HR Headbolts, and if you have bigger plans later (more boost) i would do cometic or HKS with L19s.

 

Unless his builds have changed since I bought my motor, he uses ACL bearings, which are top of the line for our motors from what I understand.

 

i could be incorrect, but also seems like he would advertise that if he used a well known name brand.

 

Depending on the compression ratio of the engine without FI it may feel a little weaker than stock power wise. However for a 450whp goal stock compression ratio should be fine but if you ever plan for more power a lower ratio like 9.1:1 or 8.5:1 may be better but they will have less power with no boos t.

 

you'll still have quite a bit of work to do when you get the "longblock"

you have to mount the upper and lower oil pans (which is best done on a stand so you can properly align that trick rear seal) and do all the timing parts and put on the timing cover. If you dont wanna pull scavenge off your OEM motor (which i wouldnt do in cas eyou ever need to swap back), thats another 1000+$ in parts plus the labor if you are not doing it yourself.

nope, no testing. You are buying based on reputation.

 

If you're super concerned with the reliability and such of a built motor, I would just lower your power needs and keep the stock motor. I'm on the stock motor with a Vortech and the standard 3.33 pulley it comes with (lowest boost), and an ultra conservative street tune, and it still makes around 400whp. I would think that with a single turbo kit, you could run low boost and a very conservative tune as well and still put down 430ish and have a very fun and reliable car. There's people who make 450+ on the stock block, but I'm talking about if you're looking for a conservatively tuned daily driven street car.

 

^ what are your other mods? headers?

 

your saying 430ish is reliable on the stock block for a daily driver?

 

When are people gonna realize what works for them doesnt mean it will work for others. I ran a TN setup at 380-390whp, and blew it up after 3000 miles. S/C's dont make 390ft/lbs when they are near the 400whp mark, so obviosuly there is less stress there.

To say XXXwhp is safe should be taken with a grain of salt. Maintenance, the tune, the supporting mods, and most importantly, how you drive your car are all factors in both stock block and built longevity.

Guys like me can do things right "to a T" and still break $hit.